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Reply by Philuk

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Posted on UK Rookie needs guidance, Timber too wet to glue and machine? , then how to dry?

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Philuk

2 posts in 859 days


#1 posted 01-20-2016 07:21 PM

Thanks for advice guys. Taking on board your comments….
I have brought the wood into the house, stacked carefully and have a fan circulating the air. I’ll measure the moisture content each day – aiming for a value around 15% before routing the joints.
I will position the 18 inch hinges such that their screws reinforce the T lap joints on the hinge side where there is a substantial hinge bolt used to tighten the hinge, so this will hold 2 of the joints together. On the opposite side I will use a bolt or two also.

Interestingly, Titebond Tech support emailed me today and suggested 8-12% MC for applying their water based products (which I think includes Titebond III) – and a value of up to 15% MC for their Titebond Polyurethane glue. They stated that higher MC lengthens curing times.
With that in mind I will wait a week to see what MC I can get the timber down to, then choose a glue accordingly. I’ll try and heat the workshop some during gluing.
I read somewhere that Gorilla glue ( polyurethane) can be used on green wood which may suggests it should be an option if I can’t get the moisture content down. My current thinking is that Titebond III probably won’t suit if I cant get the MC down to 12% or below.

I believe I also have to avoid drying too much, since once the gates are in place they will soak up water again, expand, and potentially damage the work. Logic dictates I ought to aim for around 15% MC and use a polyurethane glue.
Perhaps I could use a water repellent treatment to reduce the amount of water the wood soaks up in service? Anyone tried this ?


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