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Reply by barryvabeach

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Posted on Where to Start With Dye's for Cherry

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barryvabeach

159 posts in 1701 days


#1 posted 10-27-2010 01:40 AM

The sealcoat will lock in the dye or stain, but lifting is usually more of a problem when the dye or stain can be redissolved by the finish. If you use a water or alcohol based dye, I doubt an oil based finish will lift it, but then again, no harm in using the sealcoat. If you want to do some color control ( mix your own dyes) a good start would be a medium brown ( mahogany or walnut also can work pretty well ) then a red, blue and green – you would start with the base brown and add a little red to make it warmer, a little green to make it cooler. Here is a page that gives you the general formula for many popular colors – http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/formula.htm
If you go to Jeff’s site, he tells you which dye relates to which color on the color wheel http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/pdf/colorwheel_conversion_transtint.pdf You are right that stain use pigments – Solar lux looks and works exactly like a dye – though I did check and it is referred to as a “highly Fade and U.V. Resistant dye base Non Grain Raising stain.” As Flexner says, you can’t count on the manufacturer to give you much helpful info, but one test is whether any sediment on the bottom of the jar or can, and with Solar Lux, no pigment settles to the bottom. So that is a fairly big difference between dyes and stains. But keep reading and experimenting. Finally, if you want to expose the wood to light, I would do it before to your samples before you apply dye and finish – not after – otherwise the boards may move in different directions in terms of color.


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