LumberJocks

Reply by _Steve

  • Advertise with us

Posted on A question on resawing

View _Steve's profile

_Steve

85 posts in 1651 days


#1 posted 1401 days ago

I have 18 years as owner and millwright in the sawmill industry. I started out with a circle mill and worked my way up to a large band McDonough Headrig and linebar resaw. I have retired from the sawmill industry, but what I have learned from large bands also applies to small bands. Once you have fine-tuned a resaw to cut straight and maintain your guides, a band will cut straight as an arrow until something changes, dull saw, frozen material, worn guides, inconsistent feed speed, etc…
I recently purchase a used Delta 3/4hp open stand 14” bandsaw at a garage sale. The bandsaw looked like new and the owner stated it was used only three times. I purchased it at $.30 on the dollar of new. I could tell the reason he sold it was because the way it was tuned it could not cut straight at all.
First things I did was the following… Purchased a riser block, purchased a 1/2” WoodSlicer from Highland, and cool blocks saw guides.
The Woodslicer is a variable pitch saw that takes out the harmonic vibrations during the cut. I can’t express how this helps with feed speed and smoothness of cut. Cool blocks are made from the same material that was used on McDonough Bandmills. On these large Bandmill, only 1 guide is used above and below the cut. You may be wondering how that could work?? The guides are placed inside the band with the wheels and push the band outwards out of line with the wheels. The tension of the saw keeps it tight to the guides without heating the band.
After tuning in the bandsaw making sure the wheels were co-planer, the saw was running center on the wheels, guides were perfectly in line with the wheel faces and tight to saw without any pressure.-just touching, and the saw properly tensioned. I used a long straight edge and adjusted the angle of the top guide block holder parallel to the miter slot.
Then after everything above was in order, I then found a scrap board of 3-4’ long, marked a straight line full length parallel to a straight edge, I stated the bandsaw and free handed cutting on the marked line. After I was positive it was sawing dead on the line, I stop feeding without moving the stock, shut down the saw and marked a full length line on the table. Surprising enough, it was almost perfect with the miter slot.
I used a shop made fence at first and was very pleased on the results. The saw never needed a resaw guide for drift and have had perfect results with material over 9” thick, it sawed straight to the mark on the table. I have since purchased a Kreg bandsaw fence along with a micro-adjuster and is the best thing on the saw. I can now resaw exactly the thickness I need. My last project was a glued up veneer 4” wide by ¾” thick stock. I yielded 8 pieces of .055” veneer with no variance under .053” on any of the eight.
All that from a bandsaw some might consider sub-standard. Hope this helps. -Steve

-- McMaker Woodworks, Where you can give directive for a pending antique.


DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase