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DC piping

1K views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  DCG 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ok I've realized I can't afford the cyclone yet so after countless raves about the HF DC I'm going to bite the bullet. On a cyclone they recommend 4 to 5' of straight pipe out of the DC before any bends or tees, is that true with non cyclone DC's?
 
#2 ·
No one does that. The HF DC inlet is low and at a 45 degree angle (it's a Y). You either have a length of flex connected to it, or you have to do a 45 elbow combination trick to get it high.

For a permanent install, I think you have a short pipe and a 45 to get vertical (or a small hunk of flex), a longer pipe, 2×45s to get horizontal, and then your main run, with Ys to your drops.
 
#3 ·
A straight run before a cyclone is probably useful to reduce turbulence of the dust as it enters the cyclone chamber. It should reduce the chances of fresh dust mixing with the clean air being pulled out of the cyclone.

All of the air (and dust) on the HF DC passes through the impeller. It does not matter what happens before the impeller, since everything will get mixed up as it passes through the impeller.
 
#5 ·
Steve has a great points in that on a cylcone it's dust turbulance to avoid. The straight run is not critical on a two stage. If you get the non-cyclone DC, keep the 90 degree turns to a minimum if none…that's best. Use two 45 degree elbows for any turn and keep the sharp turns to a minimum. I only used 4" throughout for the HF, but it may support larger.

The HF 2HP DC with the bag upgradde worked for me for a number of years. I needed to rework the DC pipe when installing a cyclone….that was to get the straight run to the cyclone and increase the size of the DC pipe.
 
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