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8K views 21 replies 16 participants last post by  oldworld124 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I currently own one hand plane, a Vertias low angle block plane from Lee Valley, which I use quite often. I would like to add a second plane to my collection, but I am unsure what type (smoother, jack, jointer) would be the most useful.
 
#2 ·
Actually, I don't think any one plane will do it. It sorta needs a set. #4, #5, #7. Each is used for a different task. Your low angle block is part of the set as well. I would say your next plane should be a #5. A jack is a very versatile plane and can be used almost for a jointer and smoother. I always suggest E-Bay and learn to tune on Stanley's.
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
Garrett Hack recently wrote an article in Fine Woodworking about what planes he considered most important. Here is the list in priority order:

1) #4 bench plane
2) Adjustable block plane #60 1/2
3) Jointer plane #7
4) Shoulder plane
5) Smoothing plane (Typically #4 1/2)
6) Spokeshave
7) 2nd block plane for rougher work
8) Small router plane

I personally find the smoothing plane #4 1/2, block plane, and shoulder plane very useful.
 
#4 ·
rjack - Thanks for the response, I did find that article on Finewoodoworking.com

ebanista - I noticed the Veritas bevel plane and I was wondering what the advantage of the bevel up planes were. Why did you buy the bevel up rather than the regualr plane?
 
#7 ·
Trevor,

My second plane was a Veritas Jointer plane (low angle). In my opinion, if you are strong enough and willing to use it, it can replace a #4,#5 and #6 easily. Only on pieces of wood 6" or smaller (when you block plane will do) it is too large. I think the main reason they had so many planes in the old days is becouse the plane mouth was not adjustable. You need then a smoothing plane, a roughing plane, a jointer plane, etc. The Veritas plane has an adjustable mouth. Since the blade sits with the bevel up, changing the bevel angle changes the effective cutting angle. Purchase multiple blades and the same plane can behave like diferent planes with different frog angles. The only reason why I'm considering purchasing a smoothing plane is to have them side by side and have the Jointer plane set to a larger cut. Now I readjust the depth of cut on the large plane (takes few seconds).

In between my block plane and Jointer plane I can do most things I want. I bought some old planes (one #4 and one #5). They are preaty good but I still prefere the Veritas Jointer (have not touched the others for one year).

Alin
 
#9 ·
The priority case has been overstated a bit in referencing Garrett Hack's article in FWW. First, Garrett uses the words "...rough order of importance". Secondly, Garrett is a dear friend and I know that, while he believes that every woodworker starting to use handtools should begin with a No. 4, the other tools are greatly variable depending on what kind of work you are to be doing: thus the rendering "rough order".
 
#10 ·
I'm a hand plane junkie but by no means an expert. I have dozens of hand planes and keep on buying them, it is sort of an addiction.

By far the 3 most useful planes, for me, are my #4, #5, and a stanley low angle block plane. I have several smoothers, basically number 4s, from different makers, and actually prefer the antique 1858 Auburn Tool Co. coffin smoother to all of the other smoothers, including the LN #4 and the Knight japanese style smoother.

Sometimes I just spend an hour using the smoothers on practice wood because I find it so enjoyable.

I have a Stanley 78 that I use for shoulder work, even though I also have a LV shoulder plane. The shoulder plane is a valuable tool, I'd put it at number 4.

Overall though, the jack (#5), the smoother, and the block plane are my 3 choices. I might use the jointer for table tops too wide for the planer, but I also might use the belt sander.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=62

LN suggests this answer on their FAQ page:

. I want to purchase a plane but don't know where to start, what are your suggestions?

The single most useful tool is a low angle block plane. We have several, and any of them would be used every day in the shop. Next, I would consider our Low Angle Jack Plane. It is a very versatile tool, and in many peoples hands it can double as a smoothing plane. I t is also a unique tool with no other equivalent. With those two tools you can do a lot of work. Third, I might like a dedicated Smoothing Plane.
 
#14 ·
it really depends on your array of tools at your disposal - for example, if you don't have a jointer/planer - then a jointer plane should be your first pick, as it will let you square/parallel your rough stock - which is the beginning of each project, and to finish - you could get by with sanders/etc. if you do have a jointer/planer, but need a way to prepare your pieces for finishing - then your first pick should be a #4 smoothing plane…
 
#16 ·
I have several "antique" Stanley planes, which I haven't got around to tuning up yet. I mostly use a hand plane and winding sticks to true up rough stock before putting it through the planer. Last year I purchased a Clifton #5 jack plane from Highland Woodworking. What a beautiful tool, and ready to go right out of the box.
 
#18 ·
Acquiring planes is one thing, tuning them up and using them is another. Veritas and Lie Nielson planes work well out of the box, but eventually you will need to take on the task of sharpening them. Buying used planes is less money, but then there is the rehab part of it. As a nephyte plane user, I am always working on keeping the planed surfaces square with the rest of the piece which is mostly a problem on edges. The other part is keeping consistent pressure from beginning to end of a pass. If you are good at that then collecting what has been offered is your decision. If not, you have another adventure ahead of you.
 
#19 ·
I would say that the jack should be your next plane. Get a couple of blades for it. Camber one of the blades and use it for rough work with the mouth open. Keep the other blade straight with relief camber at the edges only and use it for smoothing/jointing with a tight mouth.
They don't call it a jack for nothin ya-know :)
It can handle everything from light smoothing to jointing and with a rough setup will give a scrub a run for the money.

My only regret with my hand plane collecting is that I didn't spend more time getting to know my jack before buying a bunch of other planes. Now I see a fair amount of overlap in my planes. There really is no need to have all the stanley bench planes other than the sickness that overwhelms once you start collecting by numbers. On my latest project I have used my jack for about 80% of the planing. I am happy to use the smoother, jointer, and specialty planes when the time comes but boy is that jcak versatile.
 
#20 ·
I would concur with the general consensus. This is my preference list:

1. Adjustable mouth block plane
2. #5 jack
3. #4 1/2 smoother
4. #6 or #7 for jointing and shooting
5. Medium shoulder for mortise and tenons
6. Scraper
7. Large router

and of course there are plow, beading and other specialty planes if you're into that type of woodworking.

I generally use a plane when I want precision in removing small amounts of material, not necessarily speed. However, pins or tails standing proud of a dovetail joint is one example where your block plane excels in both precision and speed. Certainly better than sanding.

Make some shavings, it's good for the soul!
 
#21 ·
while we are talking about planes, does anyone know where I can get a handle for a C74 Stanley? under the frog stamped on the sole is C74 and the frog has Stanley Handyman which I think is the wrong frog. The plane has a screw that goes up through the plane sole into the handle. it measures 14.5" long X 2.5" wide.

I have all Stanley planes and am pleased with them. I learned how to use them and sharpen them. Azor mentioned tune up and if done properly a plane can leave a top ready for a finish. Itry to use them as much as possible and it is great exercise.
 
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