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Help with raked and splayed legs for coffee table

5K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  cornelsteyn1 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
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Hi fellow LJ's!

I've been a member for a while now but this is my first post! Have always just been prying around for answers and have found LJ as a great source where I normally get what I'm looking for, you guys are awesome!

Anyway, I'm totally stumped with a way to attach raked and splayed legs for coffee tables I'm in the process of making. It will be made from reclaimed Zambezi Teak and the dimensions will be around 700 mm x 1400 mm(27" x 55") so not very large, but I would like them to be sturdy.

My idea/design is sleek and minimalistic so I don't want to use aprons, stretchers, rails or through tenons, thus, I have no idea how to proceed or whether if it's possible at all or if I'm chasing rabbits.

Thanks Lumberjocks!
 

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#4 ·
I think with the legs at an angle, you would have to have something to prevent them from spreading apart. I can think of metal legs welded to "runners". Or rectangular steel tubing cut at an angle and welded to a plate. You could make the design more sturdy by making the wooden legs straight instead of angled and use ornamental braces to make the legs sturdy.
 
#7 ·
That kind of arrangement often employs metal brackets, screwed to the underside of the top. When for a chair, the legs are attached with wedged through tenons.
 
#8 ·
I'd be a bit concerned about long-term stability with the minimalist approach. But you won't know unless you try…

About the only way to do it that minimalisticaly is to use a non-through mortise/tenon joint. And for extra strength, use a foxtail wedged M/T. (That is, a non-through wedged M/T).
 
#12 ·
Thanks Mark, those are good points to consider.

My head knows and tells me that the best way would be the way my heart doesn't want go, aprons and maybe stretchers, but I guess that's the problem with seeing designs and wanting to imitate!

The top is only a smidgen over 3/4" (well 20mm not 19mm) thick with a 1 1/8" edge to make it look a bit thicker, do you think foxtail wedged tenons would work with a thin top like that?
 
#15 ·
your legs are 3/4×1 3/4 at the top, and 3/4×3/4 at the bottom?

Sounds weak, but could possibly work for a coffee table. I still think wedged through tenons are your best option if you're committed to that leg design.
Have you considered hair-pin metal legs?
 
#16 ·
Been right where you are at before. Generally, I have found that using aprons (3-5 in wide) and cut the ends with a 5,6,or 7 degree miter is among the best and easiest solution. Attach the aprons to the legs by using mortise and tenon joints or use pocket screws. Because the angles are relatively small you don't have to use compound miter cuts. Below is a maple table using pinned mortise and tenon joints. These aprons were cut at 7 degrees. Hope this helps you out. Send me a message if you would like additional information.

 
#19 ·
That's right jerryminer, those are my leg dimensions. I'm not committed to anything yet, except for the table top, haha!

I could always go for thicker laminate the 3/4" stock and make them twice as thick. Maybe i shouldn't be so stubborn and opt for through tenons. Was hoping that someone knows of a way they have used which worked.

I'm making more tops at the moment, so am not in a real rush to get the legs done.
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
I think the legs have too much splay to them. 3/4" thick seems too thin, I would laminate them to 1 1/2" thick.
I have 2 methods I could suggest.
1- Furniture dowel and lots of glue. Although 3/4 isn't much meat to screw into, I would add a 1/2" thick pc to the underside so that you have 1 1/4 to screw into, and make your build up 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/8"
2- Get a steel plate about 4" square, lag bolt it down to the top of your leg, then screw it to the bottom of your table.
I think the overall design is a little weak for strength but if nobody is dancing on it I think would work.
 
#21 ·
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I guess a little less "elegant" but should last a lifetime or two right? I guess the stock will be laminated for thicker legs that I will taper with 90 degree aprons along the length and slightly angled aprons along the width to make the legs rake a little.

Thank you for everyone's input so far, I appreciate it, I'll definitely ask fellow LJ's for advice again, I'm amazed at how quickly you guys replied!

Woodust, I like your 2nd option, I might just use that in a future project!

Will post pictures when I'm done!
 

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#22 · (Edited by Moderator)
Cornell -
Got your message. The legs are tapered only to the bottom of the aprons. On the tops, I have brought them down to flush by hand after assembly or by measuring the angle (after dry assembly) and cutting the top of the legs by mounting them in a miter groove on a miter saw.

Below are some examples of some tavern tables I have done which may better illustrate how these are made and a stool using some leg ideas that may work on the design you are considering. Note that the stool legs are 3/4" stock with round tenons made with a round tenon cutter mounted in a drill press. Cut the tenons first then cut them at the angle and taper using your design.







 
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