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Tool Upgrades / Repairs #1: Craftsman 113.27520 Table Saw Rebuild

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Blog entry by rbrjr1 posted 12-07-2017 01:59 PM 3084 reads 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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A little over a month ago I was on CL looking for a table saw.. It’s THAT TIME, TIME to get my shop organized and stop working on my knees (fine when I was 26 and purchased the house, not fine at 42).. First step, get rid of the SKIL mini tablesaw that I inhereted from my father in law (he was throwing it out and I dont like to see people throw out tools).

So, back to CL.. I was looking for an 80’s Craftsman table saw (like my dad has) and ran across the 113.27520 and thought.. That might be a better option, even my dad’s saw from the 80s has plastic and cast aluminum for some parts.. EVERYTHING on the 27520 is cast or steel, American made, SOLID.

so I bit..
found it for $150, it ran, wasn’t cracked, had a smooth, flat tabletop..


then I immediately got it home, took a ton of pictures and took it apart into (luckily) about 10 major pieces..

Palm Sander & WD-40 on the top to clean it up, Researched the bearings and arbor, polished what I could polish, Wire Brushed everything, Rustoleum High Performance Enamel ‘d everything that wasn’t a machined surface, put it all back together with a DuroDrive link belt..






I left the original motor, waiting on my alignment equipment to arrive so I can get everything in line, then I’m going to build a mobile station for it which will incorporate a Delta 36T-30 T3 fence system and router insert.


I’m also researching a new 1.5 or 2.0 HP motor for the back, but that might end up being trial and error given the clearances I have to deal with. (anyone got any experience putting 2hp on an old saw like this?)

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.



7 comments so far

View Bobsboxes's profile

Bobsboxes

1369 posts in 2747 days


#1 posted 12-07-2017 02:55 PM

I put a 2 HP totally enclosed 56 frame motor on a couple of these I have rebuilt. Can’t remember it being a problem. Only thing to check on is pulley shaft size, so you don’t have to buy a new drive pulley. Also install a shut-off switch on front underside of tabletop so you can get at it. A lot of the older saws had switch on motor base. The Sears motor was not bad but it is an open frame, and got a lot of sawdust in them then they quit working. Nice rebuild.

-- Bob in Montana. Kindness is the Language the blind can see and deaf can hear. - Mark Twain

View rbrjr1's profile

rbrjr1

170 posts in 288 days


#2 posted 12-07-2017 03:49 PM

bobsboxes,
Thanks!
That is my plan.. from what I see, I might have to modify the motor bracket that hangs on the mount so that I can allow it to drop just slightly lower than the existing setup. Notice in the last pic above, the blade is extended to its highest point which obviously pulls the motor up with it, maybe I should just add some slack to the link belt.

I agree with the totally enclosed motor, right now, I’m looking at a Grizzley 2.0 and a Leeson 2.0

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.

View John's profile

John

1205 posts in 1353 days


#3 posted 12-08-2017 04:40 AM

Beautiful job on the rebuild. Did you have a preference for right or left tilt?

-- John, Sunshine Coast, BC, Canada.

View rbrjr1's profile

rbrjr1

170 posts in 288 days


#4 posted 12-08-2017 06:55 AM


Beautiful job on the rebuild. Did you have a preference for right or left tilt?
- John

I used a right tilt saw for 3 months in 1991 (industrial arts in high school).
other than that brief time period, all other saws that I’ve ever used were left tilt.

it’s not that I had a preference, it’s that I’ve never had a reason to want left tilt.

thank you. lets face it, the main reason that the saw refinishing came out so well is because the saw has been maintained properly by the man that I bought it from (he bought it new out of the catalog in the 50s)

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

5171 posts in 2287 days


#5 posted 12-09-2017 07:57 AM

Hey rbrjr1, ...very odd name?

Look after it, that’s a saw built when saws were made well, you will not be getting anything anywhere near it these days.

You may consider sending the seller a picture of all your fine work he may appreciate it.

I cannot see what the HP/Wattage is on the motor but it certainly looks powerful enough to run the saw, I would be tempted to use it at least until it fails.

Very good work on the overall restoration!!

-- Regards Rob

View rbrjr1's profile

rbrjr1

170 posts in 288 days


#6 posted 12-09-2017 12:17 PM

Robert
Username is my initials…(I’m a Jr,)
The motor is fine, it’s 3/4HP so I was just looking at upgrading it before I build the mobile station for the saw.

I’m thrilled with it, I’ve got a zero clearance insert coming.. I’m thrilled about the idea of putting this thing in a cabinet and using it!

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.

View rbrjr1's profile

rbrjr1

170 posts in 288 days


#7 posted 12-20-2017 12:44 PM

Earlier this week I got my “machined pulleys” in (ordered them from HERE on eBay). I couldnt be happier with them, the tolerances of the shaft were tight, so a very little bit of rat tail file work at the interior arbor opening on the pulley and sanding/polishing the motor shaft/keyway/key and the pulleys went on without incident. should I have used grease or any lubricant to set the pulleys?

The pulleys I had on my original equipment were single sheave, 2.25” diameter.
The pulleys I purchased for the upgrade were double sheave, 2” diameter.

The motor runs at 3,450 rpm so I have a 1:1 ratio with the blade arbor and maintained that during the change out.

Startup is smooth with a fraction of the vibration present under the original configuration (automotive V belt and original pulleys) and is also reduced from the rebuild configuration (link belt with original pulleys).

now.. where can I find a QUALITY sealed 2 hp 120/240v motor for less than $200 including shipping?

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.

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