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First Project With the New Powermatic Table Saw

104K views 61 replies 14 participants last post by  psient 
#1 ·
The Ultimate Work Table

I have decided for my first project, I'll do Allan Little's work table. I will make some changes and some additions but basically it'll be the same thing.

Better start a photo log too. I'll go into my little shop and take some pix of what it looks like now.
 
#5 ·
Scaring up some material at the local supply house.

I just was notified that my table saw was shipped. I also took delivery of my rotary phase converter. I won't be able to start the project until I have my table saw set up.

Today I'll go to my local hardwood supplier and make the decision about what species to use for the WT's construction. I hope I can find some 16/4 hardwood and a piece of plywood along with a remnant sheet of laminate for the table top.

I need some 2 X 12 stretchers. Allen uses doug fir on his. I hope to find a species of hardwood in serious dimension ( 8/4 X 40/4) but that may be a wet-dream. If not I'll select fir 2-2X12s.

Once I start drawing up the plans I'll look for material dedicated to shelving and drawers. I can use poplar for the large drawers and unless there's something else that strikes my fancy that is my choice.
 
#6 ·
Powermatic Delivered today

I took delivery of the Powermatic. The fence rails seem to be the heaviest box in the group. I need to set-up my rotary phase converter this coming week. I'll to get the necessary hardware tomorrow. The PM will need it's own circuit according to the manual. I'll have to call the RPC people and find if I can install the breaker inside the dedicated 3phase mounting. As the RPC is 20 HP I'll not have any problem with the 7.5 hp saw motor.

I'll need to make the saw mobile as my shop is too small. The answer for me will be to fabricate a leveling base. I tried to synchronize my leveler order with the delivery of my table saw. What I did was order my leveler's about 10 days ago thinking that'd give me time to get the casters and be ready when the table saw arrived.

I bought some leveling casters from Cleveland Caster. Cleveland caster took my order charged my card and didn't ship the order. I called them to find out what happened yesterday and they didn't have anything. They said they'd call me which of course they didn't. I called early this morning and complained mightily. I was sent an email that they went out today. No apology, no effort to amend their neglect. I won't use these guys again.

Check out my review on resellerratings.com.

Back to work.
 
#7 ·
Caster and pre assembly note

I am ready to finish the mobile base for the new table saw. I have the saw platform completed as well as the caster mounting plates. Initially I was going to install casters relying on a large thumbwheel for leveling.



After consideration I changed to a design that uses a built-in ratchet to raise and lower the leveling foot.



Final assembly relies upon getting my new welder up and running. I'll be getting the gas today. After that, it's a matter of attaching the caster mounts to the risers. The caster/riser assembly then is welded to the saw platform.
 
#8 ·
Rotary Phase Converter Installed

The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.



It took me 2 weeks to get the panel wired. Note the fuse block for the Table Saw's circuit. This was a slight hassle as the supplier sent me the wrong block and fuses. They straightened it out and the part arrived today.



The hardest part of the whole installation was dealing with the 240v single phase wire feeding the RPC: #4 AWG. I don't know why you can't see that part of the panel. You can when you view the shot in photobucket but when uploaded here it cuts of the right-hand side of the photo.

The three phase wiring is all #6 AWG. I will use the distribution block for the 240v single phase to run a plug on this wall. The welder will use that plug. I'll use a 50 amp breaker. Tapping off the 60 amp line used for the RPC is allowed however, it cannot be used while the RPC is being used. That is I cannot use that circuit to weld on when I am working at the Table Saw. No problem.
 
#9 ·
I'm interested ! What are the advantages of using this type of phase converter ? Is this specific to only that table saw or can you run other 3 phase machines (even if it is one at a time) with it ? The phase converter my uncle had to run his seed mill was only for his mill. I don't recal him having another motor running to drive the convertor.
 
#16 ·
Mobile base tested

After gusseting, I put the ratcheting casters on the mobile base for the Table Saw. I stood on the base and it did flex when all my weight was focused mid-span. However, with the weight distributed there will be no problem.

I am not happy with the configuration of the casters. I have decided the thumb-screw is a better deal so I'll use the ratcheting casters for another project.

I'll complete the welds on the base today and take a photo so ya'll can look at it and give me feedback. I am debating on whether to buy a sand blasting outfit at HF or just wire-brush it best as I can and let it go at that for painting. Maybe I'll get to the point of slinging the saw onto the base today. It depends upon how much time I have.

Yesterday I learned something about my welder:

First, you have to really fuss with the settings when you are new to this machine. Because it has no digital display for amps and wire feed, only volts and amps, the tutorials on You-Tube are not all that clarifying beyond the obvious. Second, if you loop the wire feed-line to the gun a couple of times the, wire will not feed continuously. Day before yesterday I had looked at the wire feeding rate and to my surprise, the gun wouldn't feed when under resistance. After some adjustments it worked. Then yesterday it happened again. That's when the light went off and I understood it was the loops in the feed-line. I'm still making stupid mistakes like forgetting to turn on the gas before I start welding.

All this learning is making for some aggressive grinding on this base. Nobody told me that welding was such a grime producing enterprise. Yesterday my wife dubbed me the 'chimney sweep' because of the grinding soot on my face and body.
 
#17 ·
Mobile base is painted and finished

The mobile base has been painted and cured. I neglected to post a pix of the base prior to painting as I had no time. Here is the photo.



Today after installing the casters, I'll hoist the saw onto the base for a test fit. If all is well I'll be on to assembling the saw-proper- extension wings, fence rails, switch wiring, cord and the side extension table. Next might be designing a mobile base for the side extension table.

I don't like the idea of a fixed extension table too much because of the space it takes. A collapsible assembly seems best for my situation. IN the end, I may use ball transfers for all the necessary extensions (i.e. side, infeed, and outfeed) rather than units resembling the laminate table shipped with the saw. Placing swing-down arms with transfers will allow me to dispense with permanent tables; the only pieces remaining extended being the fence rails.

I'm not sure about this as I contemplate what to do about my limited shop space and the volume taken up by the table saw's installation/storage. IT'll definitely be a challenge to efficiently design the shop layout as the table saw cannot obstruct my machining and everyday inside tools. For instance, I have a sliding compound miter saw that will need to be installed on the periphery of the shop along with its table, and I still have to account for a 17" bandsaw and 12" jointer. I think my shop is going to resemble a car lot when I have everything inside! Someday I'll put up a for-real shop out back on my property . . . . someday . . .
 
#20 ·
Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base

This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.

Here's the final product; base and saw. I now need to assemble the saw and buy a blade for it. Next is to test it on the RPC. After that I can start arranging the shop. Once I have sufficient room for the table I will begin building it.

I'll also make a bandsaw and jointer selection concomitant with the table-build. I'll buy a grizzly bandsaw I think. As for the jointer, I don't know yet.

I can construct low-boy bases for any of my tools with confidence after completing the saw's base. What I need most in connection with this type of work is practice welding. I've only had the welder for a few days and mainly just began to make sense of the processes for the last two. The base is very sturdy and well built but the welds are novice and overdone. You Tube is a help but practice is the key. I need a source for a bunch of useless metal to waste.

 
#21 ·
What an impressive piece of equipment. It looks like you did a good job on that base. I hope you have a safe place to do that welding. I've wanted to learn welding for a long time, but I don't dare because I have to work indoors most of the time because of the wet weather here, and I'm afraid of burning the place down. I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of that fantastic saw.
 
#27 ·
Extension Table

I have the saw assembled. I will go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a saw blade to complete the installation of the riving knife and guard. I'll also need to pick up a plug and receptacle for the extension cord. After that the saw will be usable. I won't have dust collection. I can manually vac out what collects with my shop vac until I have something more appropriate. I can then start building Allan's saw horses for my work table.

I am reticent to affix a solid table/wing on the right of the saw. I'll build a version of Allan's work table that doubles as the saw's extension table. Thus, extending the right side of the saw will be the real first issue I tackle. I can fabricate a replacement for the solid extension table that shipped with the saw utilizing saw horses able to adjust for the height of the saw table. The horses can be stored when not in use or as a table, used somewhere else when the saw is idle.

I need to start thinking about cutting plywood sheets. I am going to fabricate a small weight supporting bracket that can mount to the bolt on the saw base specifically for a plywood/panel cutting extension. The base bracket will have a load bearing adjustable foot to carry whatever is mounted there.

I will have to emulate a sliding table saw to some extent. I have seen similar solutions that are for sale serving as a guide for my personal design. I have no interest in building extension tables for others but need something that will accommodate cutting plywood when I have to. The right side plywood extension itself will be a number of transverse members and their mounting. The load bearing members of the transverse array will have a number of parallel tracks comprised of pressure transfers on strips. The assembly will elevate/swing into place for cutting plywood. When not in use it can collapse and/or hang on the wall. I'm thinking that square tubing is a good material for this fabrication. If I had more experience welding aluminum I'd use that. However, at this time using aluminum is out of my reach. Once I hone this design I'll utilize it for infeed/outfeed tables as well.

It is important for me to add one other thing, the idea for a motion extension wing is the result of searching for solutions on You Tube. That is to say, there are similar assemblies for sale commercially and I acknowledge and am explicitly grateful to one in particular for illustrating the basic concept. I don't mention the name here as that information is irrelevant to my project. However, if you take the time to PM me I'll be happy to send you in the direction of this piece of equipment; it seems well made and thought-out and reasonably priced. I believe this statement provides a way of thanking that design/designer's work giving me my inspiration. If you don't want to bother me over simple curiosity, a quick search of extension tables on You Tube will reveal such designs.

In summing up:

I need to get a saw blade and assemble the guard and riving knife; after installation I can use the saw. I will first build some saw horses to replace the right-side solid extension table that shipped with the powermatic. Next, for cutting plywood I'll fabricate a use-specific extension likened to the slide on a sliding table saw but simpler and removable. My thinking is a testimony to others that have gone before me; I stand on the shoulders of giants.
 
#28 ·
Powermatic PM 3000 installed

The powermatic is up and running. I finished the cord make-up yesterday.

This morning at 8:39 PST I started it. The motor rotated in the wrong direction. I thought this was odd as I labeled consistent with the RPC (black to black, red to red, etc.). No problem I reversed the output black and red at the RPC. After that, everything worked as it should. No real noticeable vibrations of any kind just the noise of the motor and air rushing past the blade.

I checked the squareness of the blade to the miter slot and it is too close to detect a difference; so probably less than a thou. I could put a dial indicator on it but figure what for? If I can't tell then it's close enough. I still have to put on the riving blade and the guard. I will start by using the guard until I become familiar with the saw. It's easy to remove if I have to. As a hobbyist placing it on and off is not a real concern.

The blade I installed is a economy DeWalt 12" . I don't think it is the best blade for running material but it will be fine to do the beginning work. This means I can begin the work table.
 
#29 ·
Saw installation procedure and use critique as of this point

I have now completed the installation of all parts I need to start Allan's workshop table.

In this process I have discovered a couple of things about the PM3000.

The guard works very well. There is an anti kick-back pawl and riving knife that are both effective and extremely easy to manipulate.

The saw is extremely powerful. I received a lot of criticism on my thread about buying the saw due to its power and size exceeding the group norms established for hobby shop utility. Although I understand the opinions of those that responded (almost exclusively insistent on not buying this large a saw rather than a 3hp 10") my decision is an endorsement of each shop owner critically evaluating the suggestions of others who respond to them on these forums.

I made the correct decision and those that were posting and representing themselves as carefully scrutinizing this saw to help with my purchasing decision may have had very little experience with it or one equivalent to this model. Ripping 4X8 sheets of thin material is easier due to the blade size. Ripping and cross-cutting large stock is simple, efficient, and (due to the saw's size) safe.

Blades are not costly. The range of prices have run from 18 $US to 99 $US with teeth ranges from 54 to 120. Blades are very available with a 10 minute web search revealing many reputable providers. Freud makes a 12" dado-king set with 4 toothed chippers for 350 $US. I picked one up.

The prescribed technique for mounting the rails and the fence are stupid as if set out by a staff of **************************************************. The mounting procedure is sooo poorly understood by those who wrote the manual.

The side extension table is a total failure of quality control and in-house production standards. It is remarkable to me that the table is such a piece of sh!t. Powermatic has managed to destroy any and all forms of craftsmanship or professionalism; the table's surface is uneven and bowed, the support cleats are poorly installed, placement of metal fasteners interfere with the mounting holes on the rails (I was not able to mount the table as described in the manual), the legs are not industrial strength, glue run-out interfered with leg attachments.

I have called Powermatic and spoken with a tech rep to provide constructive and critical feedback. I did this because I support the manufacturer. Had I been of the opinion that the saw itself was a gyp I would give no feedback in the hopes they would eventually go out of business.

I will continue to reference my experiences until I have enough time and range of process to write a first review.
 
#39 ·
Acquisition and installation mode

Just a note for those who are lookin-in:

I haven't been building the workbench because I am waiting for the delivery of my air compressor. I also purchased the G0634Z planer/jointer from Grizzly. These tools AND the installation of my dust collector are an unanticipated priority. Furthermore, I'm going to have to place a concrete slab adjacent to my garage (20' X 24' X 6")

The G0634Z, 3 phase dust collector, and compressor require wiring. In addition the compressor requires a total pipe-run. These tasks are substantial and have been taking all my energy and time.

Hopefully I'll have everything completed and the shop running (including my Dayton 3hp dust collector) by the middle of May.
 
#40 ·
Air Compressor Installed and Plumbed

I have the Bel Aire 318VN installed and plumbed. I have some minor leaks that need attention and will try to tackle those before I put up pictures.

The wiring, plumbing, compressor siting, and cosmetics took 3.5 weeks. Each was about the same level of difficulty. The major failing in this installation was the horrible contingent the engineers and manufacturers placed on the end-user.

When I was a journeyman carpenter I would get a price from the job foreman for framing, stacking, joisting, drops . . . whatever; say $.05 per sq foot of slab. Many foreman would cheat with your work agreement. They would walk the unit after you had finished looking for things you needed to fix before you jumped the next unit. It would always be small details . . . drywall backing here, electrical chase here, teco clips here. By the time you completed all the work (and sometimes the foreman would catch you 2 or 3 units down the road with a fix). You were actually making about $.03 a foot.

This is the corporate culture of manufacturing and engineering today. They sell you a product then make it your responsibility to finish the design and purchase the necessary parts for installation. Some design and engineering is necessary but there is no incentive for the manufacturer to ensure it is minimal.

By the time you have designed it you have gone through several iterations. Each iteration can require a trip to the hardware/fitting supplier. By the time you add the gas, cost of the changes, and the time you'll find you've added another $10% - 20% to the price.

Bel Aire was particularly guilty of this (not having any other manufacturer to compare I figure they are all like this). It took me 2 days to get the installation correct. For instance, they expect you to hook up the electrical from their switch box but do not give any attention to the conduit/cord connection with the machine. Thus, if you need to make the connection with a strain relief fitting you are left with stopping and going to the supplier. If you're figuring is incorrect you have to do the same again until you get it right. They needn't supply you with the stuff just design the box to preclude your becoming the engineer and manufacturer yourself. Many tool companies have bent over backward to ensure when you buy the tool you do not have to obtain a bunch of ancillary crap to gain efficient use. The premier example is Festool.
 
#41 ·
Planer Jointer Installation

Having, for all intents and purposes, finished the compressor build I'll start on the planer/jointer installation. It's been in the general area of its siting but I just haven't quite figured out the final orientation. Right now I have it kinda parallel with the axis of the garage door although set back about 15 feet. After considering this for the weeks it took me to install the compressor I believe I got it wrong. Instead, I'll orient it at 90 deg from its current placement. I have all the wiring completed so it's a matter of making up the final connection with the machine.

I can make the table without a bandsaw as Allan did the work without one. However, sizing things so the precision is inherent in the material required a jointer. After all was said and done, a 12" planer/jointer combination seemed the best long term acquisition. I might write reviews of the table saw, compressor, and planer/jointer after I build the table. I guess it just depends how cogent I am during its building and how reliable I believe my memory is at the time of completion. I cannot believe the amount of time I spend looking for something after putting it put down a few minutes before needing it again. I shudder to think of the aggregate amount of effort and time spent on this totally aggravating behavior.

Anyway, I'll probably begin this install tomorrow.
 
#42 ·
Added to my shop area before moving on

My shop has become a cluttered disaster. I cannot walk from the back to the front without moving something or tripping. My table saw, joiner, cut-off/miter saw, mill, and lathe are all surrounded by stuff to the point where I cannot use them. Enough is enough. I must for my own personal health and sanity pick up where I left off. To whit:

Having been challenged by my health, I haven't been continuing with my blog. I have been stumbling in and out of my shop but not had the energy to continue with its topical project. The abrupt abandonment of this blog has now ended.

I did complete the wiring of the planer joiner but as mentioned it has sat unused.

Some six months ago I had a pretty bad stumble stepping over some unstored wire. The writing was on the wall; I had to take some kind of action and remedy. After my recovery I decided to open-up the shop area. I needed a place to store material, tooling, and machinery waiting to be restored.

As I write there is a soon to be completed concrete slab area is just to the left of my garage. I am not going to add a building but rather a covered outside area. Here I can store my materials and have cabinets for the various and sundry stuff cluttering my garage/shop (including the devil spools of wiring).

A few notes on this slab area:

I used my tractor to establish the grade for the pad, as well as dig the footings. The FEL bucket is 72" in. making the footings I excavated very wide (about 24" X 18" (width X depth). This will increase the amount and subsequent cost of the concrete. However this added dimensionality increases the mass of the slab and it's 7" thickness. I am using #4 rebar throughout on an 18" X 18" grid. The slab grade is about 6" above the adjoining driveway. This change in elevation makes moving shop equipment back and forth problematic. I have decided to put an apron at the far end of the slab so I can roll machinery on and off.

Should I ever decide to put a CNC vertical mill (a VMC) in my shop I'll have confidence that this slab will easily handle the 2 - 4 ton weight.

Note I took some pix of the area as it stands. I began placing the rebar this morning.

I hope to be posting here 2-4 times a week now. I suppose if I do it will be a victory of some kind. Thanks to all who were giving me support and sorry for the abrupt disappearance.

Jon
 
#45 ·
Slab Grading: First rough-in

I started grading about 5 months ago, maybe late August.

Pictures of the first rough grading.

I have stockpiled fill on the bank above the slab-area. Note that the area was already at driveway level. I did not excavate all that much. I took back the slope from the driveway to the native grade; a total of 8 feet or so. The fill you see came from this original making of the slope vertical and the actual rough grading for the slab area. Around the slab will be a french drain and I'll use some of this material to back-fill the drain trench.

No forms in this series. The line is to give me some idea of slab-grade while I work.











 
#46 ·
Slab Grading: Second rough-in and forms

This series of photos was taken in January 2013 I think. I cut the footings with the tractor bucket. Completing that I formed the slab after setting the grade to the floor of the adjoining room. This is about 5 inches above the garage floor and the existing driveway. Thus, there will be a step-up from the driveway to the new slab. To facilitate access for my mobile tools I'll have to form an apron at the corner furthest away from the garage. I have begun the process of placing rebar in the footings.













 
#48 ·
Slab Grading: Rebar

I just began placing the rebar in earnest. I set all the anchor dowels tying the new slab with old concrete work 2/4 (yesterday). The rest was done this morning, 2/5. The electrical conduit is primarily to get a 240 volt 60 amp circuit in a position to use my welder anywhere on the slab-area. The slot cut in the stucco is a service re-routed due to the new slab that will be patched when the slab has been completed. I'll pull my welder circuit from an existing one in the garage.

The rebar you see has just been spread. I will place the grid on dobies to keep reinforcement mid-slab. I still have to cut and size to length those rods that intersect the slab's angled offset.

The depth of the footings is about 18" with a width of 20-24". Note the 2X12 top of slab at the driveway; here you can tell that the slab finish grade is about 5" above the driveway. I calculate the slab thickness as 8" figuring the concrete yardage although it will actually be closer to 7". The oversizing of the footings is a result of digging them with my tractor's FEL.

The rebar is #4 @18" between rods. I did this to ensure a CNC mill will be adequately supported if and when I spill for one.

My next cycle will be to form the driveway/slab intersection along with the apron. I'll also have to form the slab/walkway around the little room off the garage- intersection as well.











 
#49 ·
Shop Slab: reinforcing steel placement

OK I'm now finished placing all the steel. This morning (wed 2/6) I began tying it down.

I'm gonna be preoccupied with this task until tomorrow afternoon I'm sure. I'm trying to decide if I should place a drain in this area. I sent an email to the tech folks at NDS (channel drains). I need to find a narrow channel drain that will create slope with a flush-to-slab-grade grating. That is, maintain a 1/8" per foot fall in the channel while the grate at the top of the channel stays level. If I can't find something I'll put a drain in the center and ABS out to the driveway. After it rains I'll squeegee the puddles into the center.

One other thing:



This tool is a manual rotary rebar wire tier (http://www.crescollc.com/). This is way expensive if you ask me! It seems well built and engineered. I have a problem with my wrist and I'm hoping it'll help prevent me from hurting too much after the tying.

.



Here's where I am today . . .











 
#51 ·
progress

I have returned to working on the slab. I tripped and fell due to walking (or attempting to) inbetween the spaces of the rebar. Inevitably no matter how hard I tried to learn, or caution that I used, I mistepped and splattered. One time I caught the toe of my shoe just as I was launching myself over the footing onto the existing driveway and splattered hard face down onto the concrete. Another time my foot caught the line I had set for grade over the rebar and I fell hard onto the rebar itself. I did myself in when I threw plywood onto the untied rebar. When I stepped out the rebar underneath the plywood rolled and the wood itself spun out from under me.

Oh well! I am very sore still.

From this point on I would like to convey the continued slab construction in stages. Each stage will get its own posting.

STAGE 1: dobie placement and final steel setting.
STAGE 2: final in-slab lines and drains setting.
STAGE 3: pouring the slab
STAGE 4 the day after pouring and the beggining of curing
 
#52 ·
progress STAGE 1

I set the steel and tied the rebar and dobies. Dobies are small concrete blocks with tie wire embedded within them. These blocks are 3" tall; that is they will suspend the rebar 3" above the sand sub base. This ensures that when the finishers walk on the steel it will not depress into the sub base. You can see some of the drain lines in these pictures.

I also formed the approach as well as the transition from the existing walkway to the new slab.





 
#53 ·
progress in slab lines

This post shows the drain lines. I decided to place these lines due to the slab being level/no slope. At this point I had not formed the approach, seen in the previous stage.

I also placed a graywater drain for a washing machine and shop sink. These were located on either side of the window on the wall of my garage room. I'll receive hot water from an instant water heater. These lines were not in place until the pouring began. As a result, I didn't have chance to take any pix of them in particular.

 
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