Several years ago I saw this ribbon design at segmenting.biz/inlayexample.
I started by selecting the body of the design. In this case, padauk, yellow heart, aand hickory for three boards.
Then I laminated the “ribbons”
Then I cut 2” holes in the boards that make up the body of the design.
The problem for a flat boarder(cutting board) was how to create the plugs without a center hole. The first idea was wood turning but this would require a massive square of exotic wood. I also did not want to have any endgrain in the design. The major factor why turning was rejected, turning and I do not get along. It requires therapy and the therapy is way too expensive. Patrone offered a “ribbon” idea awhile ago, but that was a different style.
Then I drew 2’ circles and 1-1/4” circles on the “ribbon” material.
The 1-1/4” circle was for placement purposes only. Cutting close to the edge of the 2” line provided a plug that would be sanded to 2”. I do not have any large plug/tenon cutters, which would make the task much easier.
I had already been to my favorite machine shop to obtain several perfectly round discs, 3/4 inch thick. The disc in this case,1-1/4” was taped to a rough cut circle of “ribbon” material. Now off to the 12” disc sander and the homemade jig for creating perfectly round plugs(not quite perfect, but very, very close)
This picture shows the “ribbon” disc with the metal disc attached. I chose the metal route versus a wood disc as the wood disc could create wear spots on the edge and cause the plugs to be out of round. The steel disc will not have wear spots. The second picture shows the items ready to be sanded on the jig. The jig has a plexiglas front guide and a center strip at 90 degrees. When the part gets to the corner it is tangent to the disc creating a point where rotating the piece will create a round plug. The jig is at an angle to the sanding plate as this allows the part to start being sanded at the outside edge of the sander and then move toward the middle to achieve the designed size. All has to be aligned properly. The first several parts that were completed were “tapered” by 1 degree. Therefore, had to realign jig on the sander. It takes about 10 minutes to get everything properly aligned. The fine adjustment screw on the right side is absolutely necessary for the really final approach to the size. Once the proper size is achieved, its just a matter of rounding any remaining plugs. A fairly quick process.
Testing the fit.
Now glue the “ribbon” plug into the body.
The process starts all over again. But this time use a 2-1/4” hole saw. Use your judgement as to where to drill depending on the look you want to achieve. My first attempt at this was not the best. Some of the “ribbons” had a greater arch than others. Learning mode.
Now I drew 2-1/4” and 1-1/4” circles on the piece of wood that will match the main body of the design. Rough cut the plugs and back to the sanding operation, but a larger diameter. Same process.
Glue the 2-1/4” plug into hole.
Now cut the completed piece into individual pieces and slightly cut off the edge of each piece. Flip every other piece, align, glue, hold your breath for good results.
Square the piece and add to other woods for a cutting board.
Notes: This project chews up a lot of wood. I am sure there are other ways to accomplish the result and that is what I am relying on from the other LJ’s. The time to get the sanding accurate is tedious as most sanding. I was not the most accurate of the first but improved greatly on the second board. The third board is waiting to be completed. Lee Valley has the necessary plug/tenon cutters available, however a lot of the sizes are out of stock.
-- Skilled craftsman are not cheap, cheap craftsman are not skilled. Bert, Wooster