|Project by Zjawin||posted 217 days ago||2990 views||20 times favorited||24 comments|
So here we start with 4/4 poplar, some of it was planned out for me by the mill, some I had to go at it with a plane. I use a No. 6 with a 8” radius blade as my jack, 22” Sargent jointer, and a No 4 LN with a high angle frog (this is not ideal to use with softwoods, I’ll pickup my coffin or No. 3 stanley most of the time for anything soft).
Here I’ve cut my tails and coped the waste out with my bowsaw (which i made from parts offered @ toolsforworkingwood). I use a 10” 15 ppi Taylor Bro dt saw for the case and a 8” 20 ppi for the thin hardwood parts (think tills)
Fit the case
When happy, veneer the inside of the case with mahogany, I use hot hide glue and a veneer hammer.
For the veneer hammer I got 1/4” brass bar stock from mcmastercarr, cut a groove into a board, fit the brass, etched with garlic (someone told me to do this) and glued it with hide. Contrary to popular belief, even with the hammers on a hot plate the brass doesn’t give a bit because there’s just soo much glue from use that they’re stuck. throw some screws in it if you’re scared.
Glue up the case, I taped the inside edges so i had less squeeze out to deal with.
Build a top! I used 7/8 poplar and banded it with sapele dovetailed at all 4 corners (this is a pain in the butt and differs from the Anarchist Tool Chest where he only wraps 3 sides of the top, however, i used this method on a smaller chest and didn’t like the look) I over sized the top and cut/planed my way to a tight fit. Before I fit the panel I veneered it with pompel sapele and cross veneered the back then painted a primer of milk paint to stem excessive cupping.
This is the dust lid and moulding sticks ready to be stuck with some hollows and rounds
This is my method for transferring marks for dovetails, because the bottom skirt was so wide the handplane trick didn’t work so i used my tool chest drawer to hold the board while i marked the mating board in the vice.
For the tool chest I used a nose and cove or a close arrangement for all of the mouldings on the chest (till fronts to cover non sapele bottoms, panel moulding on lid, top and bottom skirts. Draw it up to the proportions you like, make a template, transfer to a stick, rabbet to hollow/rounds, and finish with a sanding sponge on the edges to soften the appearance…and so you dont get a splinter.
here’s a finished pic of the bottom skirt
And now this blog has taken too much time and I have way too many more photos to finish this now. Other things include the saw till, chisel rack, backsaw holding, till lid, moulding plane storage, bla bla bla
Update 1. Here’s another shot of the chisel rack, Saw till and hangers.
The chisel rack is made of all 1/2” sapele with glue blocks as spacers cut to width and glued/pinned to the face(21ga). I drilled holes for a screwdriver and marking knife. I added a 1/4” bead on the top and bottom and stopped it with an ogee fillet. My chisels are my pride and joy, you can’t really see them but they were my first turning project, anyways the longest is 17”
I had to plan ahead on a fixed height for the tool chest to ensure I had clearance for the top till to be able to slide all the way forward. I did this for two reasons 1.) For maximum flexibility in reaching other tools 2.) because some day I intend on adding another till in the front, this would be a perfect size to store my carving tool roll and venerating tools. Someday….
The saw till wall is 5/8 poplar, that’s veneered (ok, it was for practice, and it was going to be a till lid, but I didn’t like it, and it fit because the width of the carcass is the same, so I recycled) with rosewood and zebra wood on the hidden side.mahogany on the other. That’s a shot of it before I put screws in it.
I used thin 3/16” mahogany cleats to hold the till wall, you can kinda see the nose and cove profile I added to it.
The slotted holder is only screwed into the till wall and doesn’t extend to the chest side to make room for chisels. This’s sounds/looks like it wouldn’t work, but the weight of the saws, the cleats, and the fitt keep it glued to the floor of the chest. Weight comes from a 26” 8pt Atkins, Disston 24” 8pt rip (believe it or not this is my go to saw for any tenon in 4/4 or thicker), Richardson 22” 10pt hybrid cut, and a 16” spear and Jackson 11 pt xcut. It’s not moving.
Here’s a pic of the sliding till construction. I liked the bead on the ATC, but the contrast with oak bottoms would’ve been too much so I added another nose and cove moulding. Forgive me for the sideways photos, they won’t orient correctly.
Below is pretty important if you want to stick mouldings and the sticks are a little drunk. I make a new sticking board for each new project, it’s kinda necessary. Anyways, take note of the 1/8” mahogany strip holding the moulding to the fence. It shouldnt be wide or at a greater thickness than the edge of the profile you’re working, but I feel the clamp is essential because it also works as measure of how much to thickness each stick. Working with hand tools it’s very hard, almost stupid to try and be precise, but this is a good measure of how close your tolerances are. In the end profiles are easy to blend, but the height of the moulding is not.