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Shooting Board Mash Up For Veritas Shooter

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Project by BigMP posted 194 days ago 1416 views 7 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Hey guys,
I picked up a Lee Valley Varitas Shooter for Christmas. I have a feeling a few others also ordered one because mine was on back order for a few weeks! During that time, I spent some time designing a shooting board to go with the plane. I researched a lot of designs and and came up with an a few ideas that I wanted to implement into my new shooting setup. So, I’ll describe it a little here as well as give my thoughts on the plane.

Because the plane is dedicated to shooting, I felt like I needed to get the most out of a setup. This is why I wanted to have a 90deg stop and a 45deg stop. Someone (sorry I forget who – I did search too) posted a link to a board with wedges that make the correct angles. I thought this was a great idea that allowed 2 angles from one board.

I used some phenolic plywood as the main base and used hard maple, attached from the bottom and with slotted screw holes, to the plywood base.

To make the right side of the track, I installed (2) 1” “T” track slots perpendicular plane direction and drilled holes in the track board. This allows me to continuously adjust the track width to keep a slop free run for the plane. Because phenolic is slippery, I adhered some sand paper to the bottom of this board and, as a result, it holds very well.

Pictures 4 & 5 show the magnets I imbedded into the plywood. I put those in after testing the board and not being completely satisfied with the stability of the cut. The plane seemed to rock to the left (into the workpiece). Also, the skewed cutting angle potentially lifts the plane out of the slot (although this wasn’t so evident). With the magnets installed, the cut is much more stable and, perhaps, more forgiving. I did not notice much additional friction from the extra downforce. This was something that I have’t seen before.

Which leaves me with pictures 1 & 2:

After getting the plane in hand, I realized that there was only about a 1/8” bearing surface that would act to guide the plane because the blade extended that close to the bottom. This is my only gripe about the design… I assume it has to do with plane going hand-in-hand with the Stanley shooting board that is made of metal.

To fix this, I decided to grind off the corner of the iron. Now I have a 3/8” bearing surface. This may not be a solution for everyone; however, I just didn’t feel comfortable with 1/8” of wood as guide that will hold up for a lot of punishment.

The Plane:
I have to give Veritas a big thumbs-up here! I am very pleased with the fit and finish of the tool. This is my first LV plane as I have usually stuck with LN.

This is also my first PM-V11 iron. So far, I am impressed with it too. This particular model is very hefty. Like approaching 3/16” thick. It was lapped very flat front he factory and took minimal work to polish.

If you are looking for a dedicated shooter, I would definitely recommend this model. I am a firm believer in the low-angle option rather than the standard frog setup.

Thanks for looking – Ill be happy to answer any questions you have about the board too.
Mike





6 comments so far

View woodchuckerNJ's profile

woodchuckerNJ

868 posts in 235 days


#1 posted 194 days ago

Looking at the shadow of the blade on the wood, it looks like there is a saw tooth edge on the blade… Not sharp.. Did you hone the blade?

Also why is there an adjustable fence on the right side? Do you really think it will wear?

The magnets might be a good idea, I have never seen that either. I would worry that if your plane gets near metal filings it will pick them up though from being magnetized.

Good luck with your new plane…

-- Jeff NJ

View realcowtown_eric's profile

realcowtown_eric

288 posts in 538 days


#2 posted 194 days ago

watching this, cause I got one for my bday.

eric

-- Real_cowtown_eric

View BigMP's profile

BigMP

24 posts in 2503 days


#3 posted 194 days ago

@woodchuckerNJ
The picture of the blade on the wood doesn’t show the polish right on the edge. Because I had just finished hollow grinding the blade, there is maybe only 1/32” or less of polished area. So to answer your question, Yes, the blade is sharp.

The adjustable fence was an added design feature as I just felt like making a fixed one was leaving a lot up to change. I can now assure that I will get a tight, slop-free track for the plane to ride in. The way the handle (tote) is situated on this design, this is important because you cannot generate any leverage to keep the plane in the cut. Also, if the left hand side of the track were to get damaged for any reason, I could simply remove it, give it a couple passes with a jointer plane or jointer, and reinstall it using the same screw holes. The I would just need to adjust the right hand fence.

I agree with being cautious about the magnets; however, I store all of my panes on a magnetic rack and have not had issues with them picking up metal shavings. My jack plane and block plane come with me quite often to job sites, which if there was ever a spot to pick up iron shavings, that would be he place.

View Dinger's profile

Dinger

116 posts in 863 days


#4 posted 194 days ago

The wedges were a Paul Sellers design I think. That’s where I got the idea for mine. I love seeing fellow jocks take ideas and build on them. Great job!

-- "Begin every endeaver with the end ever in mind."

View Glen Peterson's profile

Glen Peterson

508 posts in 1658 days


#5 posted 193 days ago

Love the shooting board. I made one I like, but I’m thing of making another with a sloped bed to skew the cuts. I have a Lie Nielsen mitre plane with a 90 deg blade. I don’t know your plane. Is the blade set at 45 deg to the sides? Nice work.
Cheers

-- Glen

View Glen Peterson's profile

Glen Peterson

508 posts in 1658 days


#6 posted 193 days ago

Love the shooting board. I made one I like, but I’m thing of making another with a sloped bed to skew the cuts. I have a Lie Nielsen mitre plane with a 90 deg blade. I don’t know your plane. Is the blade set at 45 deg to the sides? Nice work.
Cheers

-- Glen

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