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I used a scroll saw instead of band saw so there are no cuts between drawer openings. the box is all one piece. The handles are made of brass welding rods.
The body consist of 8 pieces all scroll sawn the same then glued together to form the box. All the loose pieces were glued together to form the drawers. The piece on the back is solid with no cuts, The drawer fronts were added after I cut out the area out forming the drawer cavityies.
I just added these last pictures to take care of some questions. Being retired and not wanting to use a lot of wood I design things that might get into weeks before I can say I finished.
This is the first jewelry box of a few I designed using a set of French Curves four or five years ago.

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WOW !!

I like it !

I envy your patience AND perseverance
 

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That is truly awesome.
 

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I have made many scroll saw and band saw boxes in the past and wanted to ask about the sanding of your box. Since you cut 8 different pieces of wood and then glued together, what did you use to sand the inside and outside of the drawers? I use a spindle sander which is pretty easy, but seems there would be allot sanding with the pieces cut at different time and glued together. Also what wood did you use?
 

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Larry I make lots of copies from my original pattern. I make the copies at the same time on the same copier. I only glue on the number of patterns I can cut in any one setting as you probably know if you don't cut that day the next day the pattern is usually wrinkled so a person would have a problem cutting on the line. I don't stack cut for each piece of wood is 3/4" thick and I would have too much distortion between the top and the bottom gluing the wood up later would be a nightmare. You have to saw each piece exactly the same or else there will be lots of sanding.
After scroll sawing all the pieces for the body and saving all the pieces that will become the drawers very carefully clamp the first two sections of the body together and then drill holes for at least four 1/8" dowels to align and hold the pieces while the glue sets. I then lay the first piece to one side and using the second piece line it with the third piece for the dowel insertion. Then lay the second piece to the side so I can line the third piece with the fourth piece for doweling. The sander I use is an oscillating drum sander, floor model and it has 9" tall sanding drums and that is the reason the boxes are a little less than 9" deep. It is also the reason for a wider drawer front in case I made some serious screw ups in sawing all those pieces.All the drawers are exactly the same shape as the openings because the pieces for the drawers came out of the same holes.
Prepare all the pieces for the box before you ever start sawing so all the patterns can be glued on exactly the same. I use the bottom as a starting point for gluing so each pattern when cut out will stand the same. Don't glue the back on till all the sanding is finished and all drawers slide easy. Each drawer has to be glued up like the box with 4 1/8" dowels between each piece so all will stay lined while the glue sets. Once all drawers are glued up then you can band saw out the part that will become the actual drawer cavity. After all drawers are made then it is time to attach the drawer fronts. I made some little markers out of 1/8" brass welding rods sharpened to a point and I insert two into the front of the drawer and with the new fronts gently in place against the drawer I push the two pieces of wood together so the sharpened piece of brass will made a dent showing me where the front is to be lined with the drawer itself having the right amount of clearance on all sides. I usually have about 3/16" of dowel sticking through for the front holes but that is enough to secure the drawer fronts to the body of the drawer.
I only glue two pieces at a time and as I go I am adding one more piece to the box letting the glue set up[ for a couple of hours then gluing another piece till all pieces of the box is one piece. It takes lots of practice on the amount of glue to use and I do apply some to both pieces. Just remember it is hard to remove the access from out of the inside.
It is very important to number all pieces and dry run everything before any glue is ever applied so you will know what goes next or else you might end up with some good fire wood.
I use Ash because I have found over the years it works great and will do anything I ask of it….
The clamps are the most important thing when gluing because if you don't get all areas pulled down the same on the very first two and leave a slight hump, that hump by the time you get to the last piece to be glued that hump will become a mountain and none of the drawers will fit flush with the front of the box. I use a total of 9 Vise Grips when building these boxes # 18SP or some places on line they call them V18sp.
I start with 11 pieces of 3/4" wood all the same size.Two pieces are for the clamps and 9 pieces I scroll saw and another I only saw the outside shape to be used for the back after I have everything glued up..
I will post another box to look at. I find the amount of wood area I leave is anywhere from 1/4 to 3/8" thickness. Plenty thick for a good sturdy box.
 

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Very way kool. Really like the brass rod as pulls. Very nice design and build. The color is different, and I like it.
 

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Wow, this is a very impressive box.

No doubt there were many hours spent in the planning and the making, an A+, well done.

It is a stunner, thank you for sharing this work and the concept !
 

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Thanks TonyWard, I use a set of French Curves to lay out the general shape and use as small of line as my pen will make for the scroll saw to follow. Then it is telling myself don't get in a hurry sawing for each time my blade gets off the line it will result in lots of sanding and for sure you want the inside of the box as perfect as a person can get it.
I have found I have to make all copies that I use to glue onto the wood to all be made at the same time on the same printer for if I make the same copies 2 or 3 days apart even on the same copier they will not be the same exact size.
I think gluing up the pieces is the key. It took lots of thinking and trial and error before I was sure I could glue all pieces together and not end up with fire wood… If I lay out a 10 drawer box that means I have over 100 pieces to glue together without a lot of guides for the alignment. I end up with at least 4 1/8" dowels in each side of each piece of wood. this way I can put it all together without any glue and check all alignments then take apart and only glue two pieces at a time. And each side has to have holes in different places as the adjoining sides. This means all sides has to be numbered so a person knows what goes where before the glue goes on.
 

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Crazzy funny colours!
 

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I can't seem to recall seeing anything that nice cut on a scroll saw. Very impressive.
 

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If you like scroll sawing you should try a box like this!!
 
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