|Project by SawTooth1953||posted 12-15-2013 12:23 AM||997 views||5 times favorited||11 comments|
Most boxes don’t have the front literally cut off. When wncguy posted his valet-tray topped box, I suggested the sequence could be something like this:
1-cut off the back,
2-cut out the drawers (solid blocks at that point),
3-cut off the front
4-cut out the trays and sand the insides
5-close the kerf on the front by clamping(closing kerf on box is optional; I think I wouldn’t do it by clamping cuz it just makes the drawer space tighter with possible need to reduce the drawer; I would use sawdust and glue.)
6-glue on the front and back & sand everything flush
7-drawers: cut off the fronts and backs; cut out drawer cavities & sand; glue on fronts and backs
Here is a variation that I found useful for “artsy” band saw boxes where the box front IS cut off, however it is not glued back on. The concept came from Crabbe’s book on band saw boxes. The goal is to let the drawer fronts protrude about 1/2” so they can be sculpted/shaped. No reason a variation could not be done for a valet-topped box.
What you do is cut 1/2” off the front AFTER the drawers are cut. (between steps 2 & 3 above). This cut-off is not used. The drawers will now protrude 1/2” from the box. For a valet-topped box, you would then proceed to cut your front off, as in step 3 above. Now, when making the drawers in step 7, cut the drawer fronts off at 3/4” thick (and the back at about 1/4” or so, as usual.) This lets 1/4” of the drawer front overlap the box front, as usual, while 1/2” protrudes and can be shaped/carved. For this box-making method there is now a step 8: shape/carve the drawer fronts.
FYI, the red-lipped box has holes in the back, in the middle of each drawer so that a finger can push the drawer out. The other box has a notch carved on the underside of each lip to pull the drawer forward. The holes in the back method works better.
-- Spence in Skokie, IL