Lumber Rack, Double-sided Cantelever, Mobile

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Project by Ocelot posted 11-24-2013 09:02 PM 1955 views 2 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is the first actual “project” I’ve posted on LJ. I started it almost 2 years ago and finally got around to posting some pictures of it.

The rack is just shy of 14’ long and stands over 8’ high. With 6 levels of storage, it should theoretically be able to store about 4000 bd ft of lumber if the lumber is 8 or 16 ft long and the rack is stacked tight to the ceiling. Shorter lumber uses the space less efficiently, so it should store only 2500 bd ft of 10’ lumber. Unfortunately, the day I finished it I had some lumber delivered and didn’t have time to take photos of the finished rack empty.

There are a few things I would do differently if I were building another like this. The top level, in particular is not secured as well as it needs to be. If the lumber were loaded only on one side, I fear that the top level of the rack might fail. I need to add a few bolts to make that level more secure.

I’ll post more constuction details and photos if there is any interest in it.


10 comments so far

View hoss12992's profile


3143 posts in 792 days

#1 posted 11-24-2013 09:10 PM

This is really cool and I def need to build me one of these. Great job and thanks for sharing

-- The Old Rednek Workshop

View Ocelot's profile


879 posts in 1538 days

#2 posted 11-24-2013 09:11 PM

More details…

The rack consists of 6 “trees”.

Each “tree” stands on 2 swivel casters which are rated at 1200lb each, and consist of 6” cast steel wheel with a yoke made of 1/4” steel.

The truck of each tree is basicly a tripled 2×6. The base is doubled 2×12 (cut down at the ends so that the casters don’t lift it so high off the floor).

The arms of each tree are 4’ 2×4s which are sandwiched between 2 2×6’s along with spacers which carry the load from each arm down to the base.

The trees are joined together by a top and bottom plate of 2×6 (14’ long) and diagonal cable braces. There also are some “outrigger” boards spanned the bases to give the rack more rigidity while being moved. The plates and outriggers are attached by 4” long lag bolts so that the rack can be disassembled if needed to move it somewhere by truck.

View Ocelot's profile


879 posts in 1538 days

#3 posted 11-24-2013 09:13 PM

Thanks, Hoss.

I’d be glad to give any details and more photos.

One reason I made a freestanding rack is that my shop has a lot of windows and I didn’t want to cover any of them with racks along the wall.


View Rick's profile


8286 posts in 1932 days

#4 posted 11-24-2013 10:17 PM

Very Nice Work Indeed! Thanks For Posting!


-- Deodorant is like Common Sense. Those who need it the most, never use it.

View BusterB's profile


1594 posts in 908 days

#5 posted 11-25-2013 12:43 AM

Now thats super lumber storage…and its mobile….sweet. Nice job

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View Grandpa's profile


3239 posts in 1575 days

#6 posted 11-25-2013 12:56 AM

Have you tried to roll it yet? I built the A-frame type that you see with sheet goods on one side, shelves in the center of the A and pockets for shorts on the other side. I built the floor with plywood on the top of a 2×4 frame and closed the bottom in with OSB to keep the spiders out. When I finished I put casters on the bottom. These are about 4-1/2 inch diameter. These have polyurethane tires (machine shop casters bought new for this project). It doesn’t roll easily but I don’t move it often.

View Ocelot's profile


879 posts in 1538 days

#7 posted 11-25-2013 01:19 AM

Thanks Rick & BusterB,


I have not rolled the rack since I loaded it somewhat. I’ve got maybe 1000 bd ft of mostly cherry on it. I have pushed it a little to assess the resistance to rolling. I plan to rotate all the casters first to allign them with the direction I want to go, then push the rack down low.

The casters are hard steel, 6 inch wheels.

They are not crowned. My understanding is that crowned wheels will be easier to roll, since they have a smaller contact area with the floor.

I’ll have to try it sometime soon. I want to rearrange things a little in the shop.

The casters are very heavy. This is the way the box of casters looked when the UPS man dropped it on my porch.


View Ocelot's profile


879 posts in 1538 days

#8 posted 11-25-2013 01:49 AM

Since LJ’s policy is that only complete projects can be posted, I began discussing it in a blog almost 2 years ago.. Here’s a link to that.

View Ocelot's profile


879 posts in 1538 days

#9 posted 11-25-2013 02:43 AM

One of the challenging parts of the build was figuring out how to drill 45-deg. countersinks for the nots on the very large eye-bolts used for the cable bracing.

I made a jig to enable me to lay my tiny drill press on it’s back.

A big job for such a little drill!

View Ocelot's profile


879 posts in 1538 days

#10 posted 11-25-2013 03:37 AM

Here’s some more assembly photos.

I tacked on some scrap to fix the diagonals while assembling it on it’s side.

Here I’ve bolted on the top and bottom plates and have yet to install the cable braces and outrigger boards.

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