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Project by Todd Swartwood posted 09-29-2013 12:41 AM 2246 views 4 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

1st I thought I would start with my downdraft sanding table. I started with a lg. squirrel cage fan, and kind of built
around the fan. I also acquired a piece of fiberglass cat walk decking, that I cut to 24” X 60”, making that the size of
the table. I then built a rectangle box with 1/2” Baltic Birch plywood 30” high, 24” deep, and 60” long. I built the top and bottom the same size, I then placed the fan on the bottom and tapered the ends from 60” wide at the top to about 28” wide at the bottom (kind of like a funnel affect). I then used the filters I had acquired to determine where best to place the secondary row of filters. I then built a track with some 1” X 1” stock I had in the shop to hold the filters. I did the same thing about 3” higher for the primary filters. I then sanded and painted the table with about 3 coats of gray Industrial enamel. I applied red rubber shelf liner to the to of the grate, to keep the grate from scratching the projects I would be working on.
It turns out that it works so well I can also use it to clean the shop air as well. I really enjoy not sucking up a bunch of
sawdust while sanding. I was never very good at using dust masks. Now the table gobbles up the sawdust from sanding, And I don’t have to worry about not wearing the dust mask.

2nd is the shooting plane. Since I had decided to try a shooting board, I thought I better come up with a plane for it first.
I started with a # 5 plane that used to be my favorite, I have since purchased another # 5 that has become my favorite of the 3 I had. The first thing I realized was that I was going to need an angled tote. I tore the plane apart
and cleaned it all up, I still plan on sand blasting the top of the plane shoe, and then shooting on some high gloss black lacquer. Next was to design and build an angled tote, I used hard maple and Bloodwood. After sharpening the plane down to 4000 it takes some very fine cuttings.

The last thing for tonight is the shooting-board. I searched the Internet a week or so ago for Images of shooting-boards. I found a number of very nice boards. I then started putting one together, I used Baltic Birch as the base. After deciding on a size, I cut the ply to dimension. I then made an angled Walnut bed and assembled the to parts together with glue and screws from underneath. I then decided to make the fence and plane shoot out of Teak.
I cut the pieces to size and attached the plane shoot with glue and screws. I attached the fence with 2, 1/4-20 cabinet fasteners,I drilled the holes in the fence slightly oversize so the fence is slightly adjustable. I then recessed the flat heads fasteners into the top of the Fence so they could not damage a cutter. I also drilled and tapped the walnut and Baltic birch. so far it seems to be working good.
I have noticed that their is a learning curve to mastering a Shooting-board.

That is all for tonight I have a bunch more items I would like to share, but my eyes are drooping for now.
Thanks for taking the time to look and comment,
Todd

-- Todd Swartwood (Todd Swart-Woodworks)





7 comments so far

View RaggedKerf's profile

RaggedKerf

407 posts in 840 days


#1 posted 09-29-2013 01:35 PM

Love the angled tote on that plane! Very inspiring. I need to make a shooting board too…

-- Steve http://vaughtwoodworks.wordpress.com

View rtbrmb's profile

rtbrmb

246 posts in 1107 days


#2 posted 09-29-2013 04:14 PM

Very impressive, especially the modified #5 & the shooting board.

Thanks for sharing.

Bill in MI

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12300 posts in 2816 days


#3 posted 09-29-2013 04:19 PM

Really interesting approach with the plane handle.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Don W's profile

Don W

15398 posts in 1286 days


#4 posted 09-29-2013 04:30 PM

Making an angled plane tote converter has been on my list of to-do’s. How did you fasten the handle? Nice job on everything else as well.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Todd Swartwood's profile

Todd Swartwood

97 posts in 444 days


#5 posted 09-29-2013 05:42 PM

I attached it as you would normally, the only modifications were bending a mounting rod for the back of the tote
and cutting out a new angled base tote. It was a little tricky matching the tote mounting hole to the bent rod.
Overall I would say it was a pretty easy conversion, and way less money than buying a shooting board Plane.
Thanks for the positive comments,
Todd
Hopefully I will get back to finishing the other items I have listed tonight.

-- Todd Swartwood (Todd Swart-Woodworks)

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

15983 posts in 1585 days


#6 posted 09-29-2013 05:44 PM

Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View Todd Swartwood's profile

Todd Swartwood

97 posts in 444 days


#7 posted 09-30-2013 01:39 AM

The next picture #4 of the six at the top Is a picture of the 20” disc sander I made using the out-board spindle of my lathe. I have for years wanted a large disc sander. The little ones that we have with our belt sanders and such are just to small, and always over heat. That causes them to burn our work, and wear out disc’s really fast making them expensive to operate in the long run. One day as I was searching through the scrap yard I saw these 24” X 3/4” thick aluminum discs. I thought of a Disc sander right away. I ended up buying 2 of the 24” diameter and also 2
2” thick X 15” diameter to make a band saw with. Besides these great finds I found probably 50’ of 8020 aluminum extrusions. If you have not started using it in your shop, you should research it, It is great for all kinds of things, it makes great fences for machines
Back to the disc’s once back in my shop I needed to find how I would power this disc. I decided since my lathe was variable speed the outboard side was the best spot for it. I ended up just using the outboard faceplate to mount the aluminum disc to. Then I sharpened my parting tool to cut the diameter down to 20”. Most guys forget or do not know you can work aluminum a lot like wood.
After about 20 minutes I had the disc cut down to size and running very smooth and true. I love using the disc sander to true anything with an outside curve it is amazing how fast it is.

:

-- Todd Swartwood (Todd Swart-Woodworks)

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