|Project by GnarlyErik||posted 09-01-2013 03:11 AM||5456 views||27 times favorited||15 comments|
This is my ‘Redneck Resaw’ rig. I sometimes need stock wider than my bandsaw can produce by resawing for things like intarsia work, I came up with this rig. It is a sort of bow saw, except the blade is set at 90 degrees to the frame. Using it is a little labor intensive, but it gets the job done. Besides, I seldom need more than two of three feet in length, so this works for me just fine.
The frame is oak, as light as possible while still keeping the needed strength, with notched end joints. A regular 30” bow saw blade is utilized, bolted on one end to a toggle fitted to a notch in the end member (note – this toggle should be fitted before the frame is assembled). The other end utilizes a U-bolt/toggle combination which enables the blade to be tightened as much as you wish within the frame limits. The U-bolt passes through a metal doubler backing up the end member on its end. Both toggles have slits keeping the saw blade properly aligned. The detailed photos show how this is done.
It an even longer saw is needed, a modified band saw blade (2-3 TPI or less) could be used. The 30” length if fine for most uses since I seldom require anything wider than 20” wide. Properly used, this will produce wide, thin stock down to about 1/8” thick, depending on the material, which can then be planed or sanded to the desired finish thickness.
In use, the stock is first prepared by planing one side flat, then running a kerf on each edge of the stock on the table saw, at or near the desired thickness. Then, the stock is clamped end up, at about a 15 degree angle in the bench vise and the real work begins. The redneck resaw is carefully introduced into the upper kerf and the cut begun, making sure the keep the blade aligned with the lower kerf until the blade reaches it. After that, it is just a matter of sweat effort (‘Norwegian steam’ in boat parlance) with the saw kerfs keeping the blade positioned – under a watchful eye. I have found it is sometimes necessary to use long, thin wedges to keep the kerfs opened up because of the clamping pressure, particularly near the end of the cut. See sketch:
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