|Project by Bob A in NJ||posted 08-26-2013 07:30 PM||2520 views||5 times favorited||16 comments|
Ok, Inspiration from Don aka Amagineer. Been working on this for the past 5 weekends. This is an end grain cutting board with bubinga (should have used Padauk), maple, yellowheart, walnut, purpleheart cherry and teak for the splines.
Here is Don’s version. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/78341 I tip my hat to Don, he did a much better job on his than my version.
This is a tricky build. Start with the pieces for the triangles in the main field.
Start with a bunch of pieces about 16” long. Stack them 4 at a time as shown in picture.
There are 8 different glues ups here to get to the final 4 triangle shapes. I tried to match what Don did on his board.
Once the glue dries, cut the pieces to ~ 5/4” in thickness or to suit your own taste.
Then, to cut the triangles to 60 degrees. Did this on the table saw, got the angle just right, then used the hold down clamp as shown for safety reasons. Experiment with the different triangle colors until you get a pattern you like. Then commit to the glue up, one row at a time.
Scrape the glue and then run them over the jointer or edge sander to get a flat surface edge for the next glue-ups. You’ll need 4 sets of rows of triangles.
To do the end pieces (hatch designs) I cut the 45 degree pieces from a larger piece of stock, it was ~ 5 inches wide x 1 ½ inches thick. These were about 12” in length to start with. This created the triangle pieces. To cut the kerf / notch on the ends, I ran them against the rip fence at a 90 degree angle about 1/2” deep. To make sure I was dead on in the middle, I just ran them on both sides to make sure the kerf was in the middle. Then made the teak hatch marks to fit the kerf.
Then glued the square ends with the teak spline.
Did the final glue ups of the ends to the main board and proceeded to final thickness.
On most of my boards, I run then through the planer a 64”th depth at a time. Usually this does not cause a problem but I must admit, maybe 2 of 50 boards did not make it through this process as I probably tried to take just a bit too much off with the planer. In these 2 cases, the boards split somewhere in the main field. Since so much work was involved with this board, I simply got it to final thickness with my Grizzly 18” wide belt sander.
The one problem I have with the board is the purpleheart bleed into the yellow heart during the sanding process. I also would use padauk instead of bubinga to get a better color contrast. The bubinga is just too dark to start with.
The finish is the standard 50/50 salad bowl finish and mineral spirits, followed by a top coat of 50/50 mix of mineral oil and bees wax.
Bob August 26, 2013
-- Bob A in NJ