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Thanks: I appreciate your taking time to look at this posting. Your feedback is what makes these posting worth doing. I will respond to all comments, suggestions, and questions made during the next 24 hours, so check back for those. - Big Al

Pictured: This is a 8" x 6 1/4" x 6 1/4" jewelry keeper made from a West African Makore tree with a top and corner splines made of a curly Red Maple tree from Maine. Hence the title of joining trees from far and near. This box features a sliding Makore tray that slides on curly maple rails installed at the front and back of the box.

Commissioned: This is the second of three boxes I made for a friend. She wanted three the same size, but of different woods to give to her nephews. I'll post the third in a week or two. She wanted a box made of unique woods in this smaller footprint. Makore and curly maple are a great combination that offers a fine contrast in color and grain pattern. I have made several with these woods and they always turn out well.



Focus: In this post I would like to highlight making trays and rails for boxes. As a rule of thumb, the top of the rail is as tall as half the distance between the inside bottom and inside top of the box. Most of my tray sides are 1 1/4" tall. If they are too deep you can't get your fingers into them. Be sure to leave enough room between the top of your tray and the bottom of the lid. If your tray is too tall the top will hit on the tray as it closes. Generally tray sides are 1/4 to 3/8 thick. If the sides get too thick they look bulky and are heavy. The bottoms are 1/4 inch plywood set in a dado. Recycled paneling from older homes works well for tray bottoms and the wood is really 1/4" thick. I often use scraps from making the top for the tray and the corner splines for the tray are made of the same wood as the sides of the box.

The maple rails and tray sides used here keep the same theme as the outside colors, and I don't have to blend a third kind of wood into a small box. I like rails that go all the way to the bottom of the box. Since rails are difficult to clamp inside the box, I usually cut rails very closely so they just barely fit. I put some glue on the back of the rail and then pin nail the rail into place. The glue dries and needs no clamp so I can continue working on the box or making the tray.

When possible make the tray square then you don't have to be careful when you put it back in the box…it fits either way. For larger boxes consider two square trays. If you leave a little room on the side of the tray so you can insert your hand, then you don't need a lift on your tray. It is easy for the user to simply move their fingers under the tray and lift it out with one hand and reach into the bottom of the box with the other hand and replace the tray into the box.

For further tips on making boxes there are tutorials arranged by topics below. Just scroll and click.



Tutorials: For methods used to make a box like that pictured above just click on the blue links below. They are arranged by topic.

Mortising and installing hinges:
Cutting off the box top:
Adding splines to a box:
Making splines with a simple jig:
Making a jig to cut spline slots:
Measuring for spline slot cuts:
$5 band clamps:
Installing an attached top: like that pictured above.
Jig for 45ing corners:
Organizing a glue-up table:
Finishing tips:
Tips on making trays for inside boxes: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/86961:

Gallery

Comments

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Proud to be the first to comment on your post. I have come to really admire your work and appreciate the time it takes for you to explain in detail how to make boxes. As I mention once before I tired to make a jewelry box using your method but didn't come out that great but that was lack of skill on my part. I will continue making boxes until the day comes when I will be proud to post my boxes on lumberjocks and when I do I will owe it all to you and your leadership.

I keep all the information that you have posted for reference and I feel sure a lot of others do the same. Thanks for being the kind of man that is willing to share your knowledge and skills with me and I feel sure lots of others.

I was telling a man a few days ago about lumberjock and about anyone I come across that does wood working I pass on the information. I know of no other site that does what lumberjock does and its free. What more could anyone ask for. I feel like I have a host of friends and have never meet anyone from lumberjocks. You are one of many that I admire and want to say thanks not only to you but a lot of other lumberjock members.

Tom
 

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Response:

Tom, what a nice reply, thanks. I am sorry your first box didn't suit you. My first one didn't suit me either; however it didn't keep me from trying another two or three hundred times. I am beginning to get the hang of it now. The secret to me is the jigs I have made and being careful with the small details. Man, I sure made a lot of mistakes at the start. I would like to spare others some of that if I can. If you need help on an individual problem, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck on your next box.

I agree that this site is a goldmine, and I appreciate all the hard work Debbie and others put into keeping it running smoothly. It has certainly been fun for me to share on this site.

Thanks again for the warm response and kind words. Keep boxing and keep posting.
 

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Awesome. I love your "hints" on how to complete the different aspects of your boxes.
They are true tutorials. The box itself is exquisite!
Keep 'em coming!
Ellen
 

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I agree with what ellen says.
 

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again i see the use of vertical grain lumber and i try and use it on everything i make as well. the benefit of this is ray flake on certain species of wood and when making veneer or re sawing the book match goes all or most of the way thru the lumber and when making tables or tops the wood is very stable and unlikely to cup. now what i don't see and its just a matter of preference to the builder is flocking on the inside of the jewelry boxes i see on luberjocks? anyway this is another fine example of using contrasting woods. one other thing i don't see on alot of jewelry boxes is a fine broken edge. a large radius edge is less likely to ding and will hide flushing flaws but i prefer clean lines on fine pieces but the downfall of that is dings but if you spend over 200 hours on a box with hand cut dovetails and inlay i think the valued product is more likely to be placed in a more protected area away from kids and traffic. great job on this box Al.
 

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It has been said, "Those who 'can't' ...teach"....thanks Al for BLOWING this completely out of the water!!
I had a Technical Physics professor in college who really knew physics…he was brilliant; but he couldn't explain it very well. He taught more in an outline form and didn't understand the necessity to give the smaller steps that are necessary in order to bridge concept to concept or step to step in the process. This is what you obviously understand and do so well. It has taken you a lot of time to photograph, to figure out how to clearly explain it, to document, to upload, to provide hyperlinks, etc etc etc…...I think I can in this case, speak for many of on LJs….Thank you!
Tim
 

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Hi Alan, as usual, you work is amazing and you are also really gifted for explaining how you do it. I have a question about the handle (for lack of a better word) that I must have missed in your tutorials : in the front, I really like the 3 arches that allows the user to slide their finger under the lid and open it. It might be obvious to you, but how do you do that ? Just a carving gauge and you practice till you eyeball it right ? Which direction do you cut (from the front or the top of the box) ? What are the proportions of the arches ? Anyway, the result is very elegant.
 

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Beautiful box. Did I miss the tutorial on how you did your finger lid lift cut outs? And, do you use a router round over for the corners and top?

My boxes have been adequate, but I need to move them up a couple of notches in design and quality. Your tutorial have been great in helping me out in that direction.
 

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Very nice box Al, I always look forward to seeing your boxes and great explanations on the making of it…Great job on another beautiful box.
 

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It has been said, "Those who 'can't' ...teach"....thanks Al for BLOWING this completely out of the water!!
I had a Technical Physics professor in college who really knew physics…he was brilliant; but he couldn't explain it very well. He taught more in an outline form and didn't understand the necessity to give the smaller steps that are necessary in order to bridge concept to concept or step to step in the process. This is what you obviously understand and do so well. It has taken you a lot of time to photograph, to figure out how to clearly explain it, to document, to upload, to provide hyperlinks, etc etc etc…...I think I can in this case, speak for many of on LJs….Thank you!
Tim
 

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Another really nice box. Thanks for sharing you work and your knowledge with us.
 

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Excellent choice of material Al. Near and Far; very clever. That curly Red Maple is gorgeous. Your attention to detail, as always, spot on. I like the reversal of wood between the box and tray. Your customers recipients will no doubt be thrilled.
 

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Very nice box and some great wood combinations Al…! You do have a good knack also for explaining your steps of construction.
 

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Sensei,

Suberashi desu yo! (splendid)

Wabi- Sabi

Fukamisu Tomu (my Japanese name)
 

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Great looking box BUT I most appreciate the background info and tips. I am trying boxes and can use all the info available especially from those are willing to so selflessly give the info that I can only imagine has been gained by countless trial and error years. Thank you, some day may have one post worthy.
Dave
 

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Replies:

Man, we went to church and you guys ganged up on me. Thanks.

Ellen, thanks. It is nice to hear that the "hints" are helpful to you and others.

Roger, thanks, looks like you are on a pen-making tear. Nice work.

von hagan, thanks. I am not a fan of flocking. It does not seem to wear well and I like to see the wood on the inside. I do line the bottoms of my boxes with cloth and leather. Usually I do this after the sale if a customer wants it done. I glue in the cloth in so it stays in place. I have been accused of making all my boxes look like a used bar of soap. But, I really do like the look of the grain as it wraps around a large radius corner. It doesn't look like end grain then. As you mentioned, rounded corners really do resist dings. I admire your skill with inlays. You do beautiful work.

Tim, thanks for the nice comment. I really do enjoy teaching. By the way, your home page photo looks familiar. I must know some of your relatives.

Francois, thanks for the question. I plan to do a tutorial on the lift dimples next week when I have a friend who will be my hand model. There is no good way to take photos of yourself working in the shop. They are "carved" with a Jet Spindle Sander that I modified to my needs. I'll detail how I do that in my next tutorial in next week or so. How are the "thank you" boxes coming along?

Al, glad the tutorials have been a help. I used the same 3/4 roundover bit for both the corners and the top. I blended the curves with heavy grit paper on a random-orbital sander to remove any burns and take the "machined" look away from the arcs. I'll make the lift dimples my next tutorial. (See comments to Francois above.)

Down-under Dave, Thanks for the kind words. Nice to hear from you again. Glad to hear the hints are helping.

Woodbridge, thanks. I really liked seeing your carved chairs. "Snakes" and "Hebuterue Easel Chair" are two of my favorites. Great work there!

Jumbo, when the material will let me I use the reverse wood idea for the box and the tray. I like the look of that. It helps the look if the splines in the tray peek over the edge of the box. It can give a really striking look.

Greg, thanks for the kind words. What did you decide to do about your display shelf dilemma?

Doc, I'll bet you have learned how to walk on thin rice paper. I will have to take your word for the translations. Always nice to read your comments, Tomu.

Charles, nice to hear from you again. Thanks for the compliment. My grandson would like your train engine. Bet yours does.

Dave, thanks. Here is my lame theory. "A" students don't make good teachers. It comes to them too easily. The "B" and "C" students are better teachers because they have to think through the process to learn it, so they can, in turn, explain it to others.

I would be less than candid if I didn't confess that most of what I explain has been learned by trial and error. I try my best to not make the same mistake twice, but I keep finding new mistakes to make. There are days when I seem to make more mistakes than boxes. The good news is that if you make enough errors, you get very good a fixing them.
 

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Al,
Not only are your boxes beautiful and well done so are your post. Excellent work and tutorial.
 

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What beautiful wood combinations! I've never seen any curly red maple at my supply stores but would like to find some to use. And thanks for the tutorials as I always pick up new tips for my box making efforts.
 
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