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Flamingo wooden plane

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Project by Julio Alonso Diaz posted 393 days ago 1351 views 4 times favorited 14 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is a prototype of a plane to square and prepare wood. This is not the definitive model to sell as Flamingo plane but it is an exercise to know what people think about it.

It is made of quartersawn beech for the body and chesnut for the handle and wedge.
I have used a very thick HOCK blade with chipbreaker since I think it is the best option for wooden planes instead of the classic single iron.
The size of this toolwork is 340mm, more or less as a #5.
The price is not ready yet, please contact us if you were interested.
This is not a krenov style wooden plane, the body is handcrafted from a single piece of wood. I will let you see some more pics.
I hope you like it and comments will be very wellcome.

Thanks !

-- El hombre que amo la madera. http://aulaflamingo.wordpress.com/





14 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2174 days


#1 posted 393 days ago

Beautiful plane ,outstanding build.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Ethan Sincox's profile

Ethan Sincox

765 posts in 2771 days


#2 posted 393 days ago

Julio,

I really like the shape of the toe; the little details there make it pop! And it obviously takes some great shavings!

The shape of the tote looks very comfortable, and I like how the grain turned out in it. Is the angle of the tote a bit higher than how it is typically done? It looks like you would need to have a lower bench than normal to get the full benefits of the taller tote angle.

Aesthetically, I have just one quip. I think the wedge is a bit tall and I guess I like the more traditional shape, as well. Certainly, it works as it is supposed to, but I think it detracts from the lines of the rest of the plane.

Love the traditional choice of the beech for the body. The chestnut looks pretty good with it. It might be interesting to see it with a wood that has more contrast.

All said and done, great job! Look forward to seeing the non-prototype version!

-- Ethan, http://thekiltedwoodworker.com

View Ramon Vidal's profile

Ramon Vidal

46 posts in 966 days


#3 posted 393 days ago

Hombre Julio, ya tenía ganas de verle la cara al niño.

Te ha quedado muy bonito y las virutas son de película, vamos para presentarlas a un concurso de virutas. JAJAJA

Ya que pides opinión, pues opino: Como Ethan, para mi gusto cuña y empuñadura, aunque son espectaculares, se ven muy grandes, sobre todo la cuña “se come” el resto del cepillo.

En cuanto a maderas, por España he visto muchos cepillos tradicionales hechos con madera de carrasca o encina (Quercus Ilex), no es muy bonita, pero es más dura y resistente que el haya (Fagus Sylvatica). Pienso que le daría a la herramienta un aire más cálido.

Enhorabuena y no te canses de crear.

-- Ramonet

View Roger's profile

Roger

14096 posts in 1401 days


#4 posted 392 days ago

Super nice build. Oh, what nice curls.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Nate Meadows's profile

Nate Meadows

1067 posts in 803 days


#5 posted 392 days ago

Beautiful work! I agree with Ethan, the tote looks alittle high but it is hard to say without actually using the plane. Truly a beautiful and masterful job.

Nate

-- "With a little bit of faith, and some imagination, you can build anything!" Nate

View Don W's profile

Don W

14606 posts in 1164 days


#6 posted 392 days ago

I don’t understand the blade to wedge height. The wedge is higher than normal and the blade is lower than normal, it looks like it would be hard to adjust the depth. The wedge just looks out of place to me.

I like the beech, and I love chestnut, so I’d like to see either all beech, all chestnut, or something more contrasting.

Interesting the way you moved the blade forward from the tote. That will obviously change the balance, so without trying it, how is the balance? Was it intentional for a specific purpose?

The tote does look a little high, but seems to have a more downward set. I’ve often thought about trying that technique. I’d be interested to know how it works.

All-in-all, its pretty hard to argue with those shavings. I’m interested in the final results, it looks really nice.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View stefang's profile

stefang

12541 posts in 1931 days


#7 posted 392 days ago

The wonderfully thin shavings are a great testament to the quality of this plane. The design looks unique too. Great work on this.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View richardwootton's profile

richardwootton

1078 posts in 552 days


#8 posted 390 days ago

Julio,
Very nice plane, one day I’ll actually get around to building one as well. Where the heck did you find the Chestnut?

-- Richard, Hot Springs, Ar -- Galoot In Training

View Ethan Sincox's profile

Ethan Sincox

765 posts in 2771 days


#9 posted 387 days ago

Richard,

I would assume Julio is using the European variety of chestnut (called sweet chestnut or Spanish chestnut), and not the blighted American chestnut.

-- Ethan, http://thekiltedwoodworker.com

View jcees's profile

jcees

946 posts in 2396 days


#10 posted 386 days ago

Has to be one of the funkiest planes I’ve ever seen. Way cool! Proof is in the shavings… shweeeeet!

-- When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world. -- John Muir

View Anapolis7's profile

Anapolis7

49 posts in 1514 days


#11 posted 357 days ago

I’m a little late to the party, but I had a question about the design.

How are you setting the wedge for the throat plate? I’ve built quite a few handplanes and I like the idea of having an adjustable/replaceable throat opening, but it seems like the same principle that allows the blade/wedge to slip with hammer blows would knock this loose, too. I think you could fix this problem by slotting the front wedge and putting a threaded insert into the body below the wedge. That way you could adjust the throat, then tighten the bolt down and lock the front wedge in place. Another potential design consideration that this opens up is making the front wedge taller and sculpting some sort of hybrid tote/thumb hook on the top of the wedge.

As far as the size and shape of the blade wedge goes, my experience has been that the two things that matter most are the slope of the wedge (too high and the blade won’t slip, too low and it will never set properly) and the wedge seating fully on the blade. I would consider either losing the big hump in the wedge or tone it way down. With the tightness of your throat with relation to the blade and the fact that the cheeks taper to hold the wedge, you are getting into territory where clearing the shavings could become an issue. If you use it as a smoother, it probably doesn’t matter. If it is used more as a number 5, then I think the chip clearance is going to be important.

Love the plane. You definitely have some neat ideas.

View Julio Alonso Diaz's profile

Julio Alonso Diaz

173 posts in 1477 days


#12 posted 356 days ago

Thanks for the comments guys !

-- El hombre que amo la madera. http://aulaflamingo.wordpress.com/

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4744 posts in 1174 days


#13 posted 356 days ago

Outstanding shavings from a well built plane.

I like the wedge and design of your classic plane.

View Jacob's profile

Jacob

14 posts in 257 days


#14 posted 241 days ago

Sorry to wake up this old thread!
But the plane is simply gorgeous :-)

-- Jacob

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