Shop Technique - Feather board for resawing

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Project by ChuckM posted 06-14-2013 11:31 PM 3832 views 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

My usual resawing task is done on the tablesaw unless the board is too wide and the bandsaw is the only option. A featherboard is essential for safe resawing and never try resawing without a riving knife or splitter.

Additional requirements: The rip fence must be parallel to the sawblade/miter slots and wood should have been acclimated in the shop for a few weeks or more.

If the wood has rough edges, joint it or plane it straight and true first.

After resawing (to about 5/16” + 1/32” or more), I let the pieces (walnut & maple) “climatize” for a few days or a week before thickness-planing them to final thickness of 5/16”.

Caution: Do not attempt this method or technique if you are not an experienced tablesaw user or you don’t feel comfortable using the tablesaw to resaw stock.

-- The time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

5 comments so far

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2686 posts in 3120 days

#1 posted 06-15-2013 12:24 AM

I re-saw a lot of cedar this way although I do not have a feather board. I make a lot of cedar boxes that I sell and this is how I make the stock for the sides that are 2 1/8” x 3/8” I have the same saw you show in the photo but I put the fence on the left side of the blade and reach over it with my right hand to push it through the saw. Keeps me out of the line of fire in case of a kick back. I need to make a feather board for mine.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website>

View ChuckM's profile


615 posts in 3865 days

#2 posted 06-15-2013 02:16 AM

Hi Jim,

Thanx for sharing your experience. Done properly, the tablesaw method is faster than the bandsaw way and it requires no change of the blade.

The narrower the starter stock and the narrower the finished stock are, the more important the feather board is.

In the batch shown in the pictures, I started with stock that was about 3/4” thick x 3 3/4” wide (or tall when stood on the tablesaw) and using a thin-kerf blade, the stock was split roughly half, each about 5/16” + 1/32”.

I used the same approach for cutting the 1/8” stock for all my business card case projects: e.g. –

-- The time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

View Sodabowski's profile


2382 posts in 3031 days

#3 posted 06-15-2013 10:54 AM

Chuck, what blade do you use? I can’t seem to find what I would call a real thin kerf blade for the TS, and I don’t want to waste stock to a 3mm thick blade (high-end figured woods cost a lot, even more when you have to import them and pay for postage, which usually more than doubles the cost).

-- Thomas - Pondering the inclusion of woodworking into physics and chemistry classes...

View ChuckM's profile


615 posts in 3865 days

#4 posted 06-15-2013 12:51 PM

Hi Thomas,

Mine should be the 3/32” (2.38 mm) version, like this:,41080,41165

Thinner versions are available, such as at 0.091” or 2.31 mm.

You’re right. Resawing wood on the bandsaw can be more economical if the wood is expensive.


-- The time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

View jumbojack's profile


1685 posts in 2823 days

#5 posted 06-15-2013 09:49 PM

Before I got my bandsaw, I resawed on the table saw. Splitter yes, feather board heck yes. I use a featherboard for just about any rip cut. Since the band saw I never resaw on the table. I get an almost equal quality cut with half the trouble.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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