|Project by Twodeuce||posted 04-25-2013 01:19 PM||2636 views||17 times favorited||7 comments|
I had an old mdf router table that bowed, so I wanted something that would stand the test of time. Secondly, I wanted great dust collection. Lastly, I wanted Incra repeatability. I have it on my table saw and couldn’t woodwork without it (ok a little over-dramatic).
So I spent waaay too much money on this, but I justified it as a learning process. I had never built a case before! So I read all I could, abused Google images and came out with a pretty satisfactory result.
The Cast Iron table is 1 1/2” thick, but I still wanted support for it. So you can see the dividers in the middle of the build. Consequently it also gave me walls for my dust collection chamber. I screwed 3/4 plywood to the bottom of the iron table as it served two purposes. Sealed the cast iron “webbing” for DC, and provided a way to “secure” it on to the table. It actually sits in four 3/8” rabbets along the three outside walls and the main divider. It’s not secured by anything other than it’s own weight (100lbs). I just made sure the fit was good and snug and haven’t had any issues. Main reason for this is I wanted easy retrievability if I ever needed it.
It has a Woodpecker router lift. I also added a Wixey height gauge. It rolls around on Rockler’s workbench casters and sits on leveling feet. Is anyone’s garage level??
I went with the 25” Incra fence, but there is some bowing to it…not much, but in hindsight I would have gone with the 17” probably.
I was unhappy I didn’t come up with a better solution for my cord. I wanted something retractable, but couldn’t find anything reasonable in 12Gauge.
I used Blum full extension slides on the four large drawers and created my own slides for the four smaller drawers that house router bits. I need to post a pick of the open drawers. I used 3/4” ply and glued mdf to the top, then drilled slightly over 1/4” and 1/2’ holes (I mean 1/64 oversize) for the shelf bottom. It has open sides for better bit access. and a rear wall to engage the upper kickers. I used 3/4” because they are 25” long.
DC is done through a 5” pipe (as you can see coming out of the back) and a 4 ” over head connected to the fence. There is a ramp that slopes front to back that helps in chip collection. I open the cabinet door for the “entry air”. It seems to work fairly well.
I used all maple and M/T joinery. The finish is Transtint dye stain medium brown and varnish/tung oil combo. I still wasn’t pleased with the stain. I got an even coverage (so tough on maple), but it ended up obscuring the beautiful grain I liked so much. Still learning…
Overall I’m pleased and it should serve me well.