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The Desert Shuffle

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Project by UncannyValleyWoods posted 04-22-2013 07:17 AM 874 views 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
The Desert Shuffle
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Being new to this board, I’m going to be posting some projects I’ve finished in the last four months. Many of them are cutting boards, since there seems to be a vibrant market for them, these days.

This board is a combination of Hard Maple, Osage and Babinga. It is presented with the end grain up and is balanced fairly well. There was a slight wobble, but nothing too concerning.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods





10 comments so far

View indgreg's profile

indgreg

275 posts in 601 days


#1 posted 04-22-2013 09:55 AM

very sharp & welcome to LJs

-- greg indiana

View grenger's profile

grenger

185 posts in 2053 days


#2 posted 04-22-2013 12:27 PM

nice board. Nice patterns

-- Gerry (the beginner), Gatineau, QC, Canada

View GlennsGrandson's profile

GlennsGrandson

432 posts in 996 days


#3 posted 04-22-2013 02:04 PM

Welcome, beautiful board!

Funny story about a wobble. I recently made two of these and was really struggling to get the wobble out of them. After awhile I gave up and said close enough (probably off by 1/32”). After I finished them and the wife was using one I asked her about the wobble, she said there was none. I checked it out, the cabinet top that I was trying to level it to wasn’t level! Luckily it sat level everywhere else. We still put a piece of that rubber cabinet/drawer liner under it as it still wanted to slide quit easily on the counter (no rubber feet or anything).

Looking forward to seeing more of your projects!

-- Grant - S/N Dakota

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

335 posts in 551 days


#4 posted 04-22-2013 10:48 PM

Thank you all for the encouraging words!

That’s a great story ‘Glenns’. I recently had something very similar happen with a board. I’ve also had a few that had a slight wobble on one side, but when turned over, the alternate side seemed to hug the counter even better than a level surface would have. It had almost a suction cup effect on the board. It was very odd and unplanned, but effective.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods

View freddyaudiophile's profile

freddyaudiophile

58 posts in 737 days


#5 posted 04-22-2013 11:25 PM

How thick is this board?

I am getting ready to tackle some of these myself.

-- freddyaudiophile, Fredericton, NB, Canada

View Milton Toal's profile

Milton Toal

99 posts in 758 days


#6 posted 04-22-2013 11:46 PM

Welcome to LJ’s. Very nice board. I had a wobble with one board a few months back that I struggled to remove so I cheated. It had a definite up side so I put a drop of glue from a hot-glue gun on each corner of the down side and stood it on bits of baking paper on a level surface. Bingo! no more wobble.

-- Milton Toal, Doncaster, Melbourne Australia.

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

335 posts in 551 days


#7 posted 04-23-2013 12:00 AM

Freddy, that board was an 1 3/4” thick. It’s total measurements were 9 1/2” x 14 3/4” x 1 3/4”. Good luck on your boards!

Also, I did my initial glue up by gluing up the faces instead of the edges. I find that this gives the boards a bit more girth and stability, though I realize many folks prefer the edge glue ups.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods

View WoodArtbyJR's profile

WoodArtbyJR

428 posts in 1652 days


#8 posted 04-23-2013 01:54 PM

OK, if you’re going to get serious about cutting board creation, let me give you some help. Go back and search out a tutorial on cutting board making by degoose, go back and look at McLeanVA on how to use the 2-3-4-3 pattern (endless possibilities) and start looking for a drum sander (if you don’t already have one). For a cutting board maker, a drum sander is a MUST (your arms will thank you). A 16-32 is a pretty good start. The drum sander will help to remove the “wobble” from your boards after final glue up. If you have a wobble, set it on a KNOWN flat surface, i.e. table saw top and then shim it up to make it level. I use painters blue tape and then run it thru until flat. Another fix for a small wobble is to put poly feet (available thru Lee Valley Tools http://www.leevalley.com/US/Hardware/page.aspx?p=62154&cat=3,40993,41285&ap=1). The only problem with these is that your board is now a one sided cutting board but a positive is that it DOESN’T move around on the countertop during use.
When you do your crosscut, number each one and make sure you keep them in the EXACT orientation as cut until you flip them. Numbering them helps as then you know in which order they were cut and when flipped you keep the grain orientated in the correct direction. At this point I usually run them thru my drum sander to ensure that I have a FLAT surface for the next glue up.
Don’t be fooled in buying Salad Bowl Oil or Cutting Board Sealers, good ol’ mineral oil from WalMart @ $1.85 a pt is the same stuff. On the final coat I heat my mineral oil and add bees wax to it (about a 60/40 combo), this helps in the sealing process. OR, do a search on LJ and find thewoodwhisperer’s video on using wiping varnish to seal. Very good video, very informative. Not sure what glue you use but most of us LVDT makers use Titebond III and swear by it.
Now that I have slammed you hard, let me tell you, you have an eye for design. Your patterns are very beautiful and THAT is VERY important if you plan on selling these. Based on the boards that you have posted your color selection was fantastic and THAT’S what’s going to catch the eye of the purchaser.
Welcome to LJ and keep up the good work. Here’s another little secret, sell a few boards, get a new tool….....;-)

-- Jim Roberts, Port Orchard Washington

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

335 posts in 551 days


#9 posted 04-23-2013 05:04 PM

Thanks so much for the advice JR. It’s greatly appreciated.

Sounds like I’m already on the right track. Actually, I already use a combo of mineral oil and bees wax to seal all of my boards. I’m very familiar with the trappings of the salad bowl oil.

As for buying a drum sander, it’s on the list, but I reckon I will continue to sand my boards as I do now. I enjoy using a combination of orbital and hand sanding. I get a better feel for the board and can usually come out with a glassy finish. I don’t mind the time it takes. Frankly, sanding is a good zen practice for the mind.

And I’m totally with you on selling boards and buying new tools. When I first started out, I was doing all my jointing by hand…after selling my first batch of boards, I found a Jet Gold Series Jointer on craigslist that probably had less than 2 hours of time on it. Snatched it up for less than $300. It’s made a world of difference in my shop. :-)

I really appreciate the advice and the kind words. This seems like a very positive and helpful community and I’m very glad to have found it.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

15959 posts in 1553 days


#10 posted 04-23-2013 05:13 PM

This is really quite nice and nicely done too. Welcome to LJs.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

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