|Project by stanleyfatmax||posted 04-07-2013 01:39 AM||1880 views||4 times favorited||11 comments|
At about 9 months start to finish, this is my longest project to date. The cabinet section has through tenons that mate with the tabletop and are wedged from below—the goal was to have a knock-down joint to help out if I ever need to move it since it’s about 80” tall. I wanted to have beefy tenons to be sure the wedge didn’t split them, but I screwed up some calculations and it ended up in the way of the drawers. If you look at the underside picture you can see that I had to plane those down (and the drawer sides) to get the drawers to be able to close.
The wine bottle slats sit in grooves in the rails with the negative space filled with spacers. If I was doing it again I would’ve paid more attention to matching color on the spacers in the back rail as some of them are light enough to really stand out. The shelves and wineglass/lowball holders are attached with stopped sliding dovetails. It’s not visible from the pictures but there is a middle shelf in the cabinet section. There is a bit of a curve to the bottom of the legs and a very slight arc to the bottom of the wine rack rails.
These are the first frame and panel doors that I’ve done just using router rail and stile bits rather than doing an actual mortise and tenon. That was probably a mistake with this style of door as there is nothing but the tension of the spaceballs to keep proper placement of the middle rail (someone more experienced probably can give the right way to do this). I used self-closing euro hinges for the cabinet doors and I think I calculated wrong because I ended up with too big of a gap (~3/8”) between the doors, even with the lateral adjustment screws all the way in (my girlfriend watched me close the doors and innocently asked whether there was a piece that went between them—grrr). You’ll also see on the close-up that some of the seams in the frame and panel aren’t totally clean. I think the narrow width of the stock and poor set-up caused me to rock a bit when routing the end grain of the rails.
You can kind of see from the table top pic the 6 diamond inlays to cover knotholes in the wood. My execution of the inlay was a bit poor, but even beyond that I think I should’ve used contrasting wood because it matches color close enough that it just looks like a badly done fix rather than the design element I intended it to be. I also intended to have a curve on the lower side of the top rails of the doors but didn’t because the straight grain pieces I had picked out for the frame didn’t have enough width. Now I think the top section looks a little too boxy and maybe that would’ve helped. Looking at it now I also think that some small molding at the top above the doors may have given it a more finished look.
Although this post is mostly about the various screw-ups, I had a great time building it and I’m really happy with the end result. The finish by the way is poly over oil. Shellac over oil is my go-to but I switched it up because I’m sure I’ll spill my fair share of whiskey on this over its lifetime. In fact, might go spill a bit on it now.
Thanks for reading—