|Project by NiteWalker||posted 04-05-2013 02:46 PM||4117 views||9 times favorited||4 comments|
After getting my bosch 4100 refurb and setting it up, the first thing I did after making the stand for it, was make some zero clearance inserts for it. These are actually take 2; the first inserts I made out of baltic birch plywood scraps and they weren’t completely flat, so I had a corner that stuck up and was catching on workpieces. So this time I used some 7/16” MDF I had.
The process wasn’t too complicated, just a few more steps involved than a typical zci. The first thing I did was cut a blank for a master template. I cut it so it’s a snug fit. Instead of using the stock insert as a template, I used one of the corners to make a custom corner radius template like the other one I made. This works better for me than using the stock insert and having to reposition it because of the gaps and tabs in the way. Once the master template was done I used it at the router table with a flush trim bit to make the rest.
With the fit taken care of, I drilled the holes for finger hole and set screws. For the finger hole I used an old 24mm forstner (a size I use a lot) and placed it out of the way of the blade slot and leveling screw locations. For the set screws I just screwed the set screws in most of the way on the stock insert, placed it over the blanks and gave it a tap. This left indentations so I knew where to drill the holes for the set screws. I used 1/4-20×3/8” flat tipped set screws from amazon. I already have a 1/4-20 tap set, but instead of using the drill bit that came with it I used one 1/16” smaller so the set screws would have a snug fit. Since MDF is so soft, using the tap with the smaller hole was no problem. Also, instead of tapping by hand, I used my cordless drill on slow speed. I’ve been tapping holes in wood this way for a while and it works great.
A rabbet all the way around was done at the router table. It’s about 1/8” deep and just over 5/8” wide I think. On the left side I had to do another deeper, but not as wide, rabbet for the ledge that’s on the saw. I used stops at the router table for this rabbet.
For the blade slot I used a dado set to get it started, then switched to the blade I use (great blades btw). To make sure the slot was long enough for the riving knife, I used a 1/8” spiral bit at the router table. I used the slot I already made at the table saw to position the fence, and stops for the start and end positions of the cut.
With all the woodwork out of the way I gave the top edges a light sanding and applied 2 coats of zinsser sealcoat, followed by a light sanding with 400 grit and a coat of paste wax.
Time to put em to work!
-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.