home made chainsaw mill

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Project by lukeray22 posted 03-17-2013 01:50 PM 5677 views 7 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I saw this product on a tool site and didn’t want to pay the 170$ ish price tag… so I built one in roughly 4 hours out of some scrap angle iron dad had laying around the farm. And these are the results. Dad has a bush of mostly maple and white ash, and a small amount of cherry, elm, hophornbeam, and a small bit of yellow birch. The log that i cut down was a standing dead white ash tree. Such a shame that the emerald ash borer is doing this to so many of the trees in my area.

I also apologize for all the sideways pictures. I cant seem to get them to be upright.

16 comments so far

View Lazarus's profile


48 posts in 2250 days

#1 posted 03-17-2013 02:32 PM

Nice job. It shows that woodworkers have skills that extend into other areas beyond woodworking. You not only saved money in fabricating it yourself, you just paid next to nothing for free wood.

View a1Jim's profile


117232 posts in 3719 days

#2 posted 03-17-2013 04:16 PM

Good job and a great idea. It’s a little hard to see exactly how the chain saw connects to the frame you made.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View tomd's profile


2166 posts in 3912 days

#3 posted 03-17-2013 05:05 PM

I also don’t see how it works.

-- Tom D

View cdaulton's profile


25 posts in 2610 days

#4 posted 03-17-2013 05:27 PM

What kind of chain saw do you use? I have burned up two cheap ones cutting up logs on the long grain like you were cutting and I’m looking for a good chain saw.

View Von's profile


238 posts in 2355 days

#5 posted 03-17-2013 06:48 PM

been dreaming of building my own csm, but I … don’t have a chainsaw yet to begin the fabwork. Nice save on those logs. now that ya got em milled up you should be able to manage bug problem pretty easy

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2629 days

#6 posted 03-17-2013 07:30 PM

It looks to me like the bar only attaches on the engine end leaving the sprocket end open.
In some cases this is good, it allows cutting of a log almost twice as wide as the bar….. but there are caveats.
Oiling, heat, flexing, etc.

For those that don’t see how it attaches, the bar is squoze between a couple of plates that are welded to the bars with the bolts.

Mine has attachment on both ends, but then the caveat on that is you lose a few inches of bar length because the sprocket end attachment has to be far enough behind the sprocket to not compress it when tightened.

I use a Poulan 5020, 20” bar with full chisel chain. So far I have cut down and disposed of 6 large oaks and cut 6 logs into slabs, 16” wide.
I also changed the bar to an Oregon Pro bar 28” and have cut up 6 more 8” oak logs into slabs.

Lately I bought an antique Pro Mac 610 with a 20” bar and 60cc engine, (Poulan only has 50.8cc), and with some hot rodding will put a 32” bar on it.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View lukeray22's profile


13 posts in 2039 days

#7 posted 03-17-2013 09:50 PM

Dallas is exactly right on how it is attached.. Cdaulton I am currently using a sthil ms 170 with a 16” bar but I find that it has some bar oiling issues so I am looking at a larger husqvarna 455 with a 20” bar and hopefully it will go a little faster. Right now it takes about 15 mins per 10 ft to cut through it. Some sites say to use a ripping chain to have a finer finish but I just cut it an 1/8 ” larger width wise and run it through my planer.

View a1Jim's profile


117232 posts in 3719 days

#8 posted 03-17-2013 10:32 PM

I’ve never used a set up like this ,but I was wondering if you had a longer bar if you could attach another handle on the end to make it easier to pull the chain saw through the wood.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Grandpa's profile


3261 posts in 2817 days

#9 posted 03-17-2013 11:49 PM

Stihl 510. Get this and you will not wear it out, burn it out or be sorry. It costs but you only pay once.

View lukeray22's profile


13 posts in 2039 days

#10 posted 03-18-2013 12:35 AM

Jim – yes you could make it a bit longer and add another height adjustment for larger bar chain saws. This is what it would look like if you follow the link . I built mine to function for the smaller bar chainsaw

View a1Jim's profile


117232 posts in 3719 days

#11 posted 03-18-2013 12:39 AM

Very cool ,thanks for the link.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View ToddJB's profile


8222 posts in 2272 days

#12 posted 03-18-2013 01:22 PM

How do you get your first cut nice and flat to set up all the rest of your cuts?

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

View Shanem's profile


130 posts in 2608 days

#13 posted 03-18-2013 03:03 PM

I’ve got a Stihl 038 with the Alaskan mill.
The key is to make your first cut level as all other cuts reference off that. I use a fibreglass extension ladder and put shims in if there is a big offset. Afterwards you have a nice flat surface to reference.

Turn your oiler up to max. This type of sawing is creates a lot of heat and will destroy your bar if you don’t have enough oil.

I “paid” mine off first weekend sawing up some birch. Would love it if we had cherry or maple here.

View Dinger's profile


145 posts in 2404 days

#14 posted 03-18-2013 03:35 PM


I have a photo suggestion: before uploading the photos, simply double click them and they will open up in Windows Photo Gallery (assuming you’re using windows) Toward the bottom there are spiral-like arrows. Just keep clicking these until the photo is right side up, then click the “X” in the top right to exit. Before exiting it will ask you if you want to save the changes. Click “yes” and then all of your fellow LJ’s will be able to enjoy your wonderful photography without getting a crick in the neck!

Nice project by the way!

-- "Begin every endeaver with the end ever in mind."

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4168 posts in 2998 days

#15 posted 03-18-2013 05:32 PM

Great Toy

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

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