| Project by SamT | posted 121 days ago | 478 views | 0 times favorited | 12 comments | ![]() |
With a new baby on the way it was necessary to replace the large computer desk with a small one. The goals of this design were:
- Had to fit into a space allocated by SWMBO.
- Economy – use up existing offcuts from other projects and not overspend on new timber.
- Hide the PC. This is a small form factor case 320mm wide by 100 high by ~570 deep, but it was still big compared to the room.
The top is laminated from 3 boards of recycled NZ kauri. Drawer fronts and breadboard ends are from a single piece of heart rimu. Drawer sides are ‘Pacific Rimu’ scraps that I got for free. Legs and frame are Radiata Pine. I ripped the TNG off of some TNG and laminated it to make the drawer bottoms. Legs and rails were assembled with mortise and tenon. The drawer tails were cut on the tablesaw and the pin waste removed with a plunge router before chiselling to fit. I made a middle drawer which I hope to use eventually. It was finished with water based polyurethane. Everything but the pine had a coat of BLO first.
What went well:
- I took the time to properly sharpen planes and chisels. This gave me tremendous confidence using both.
- I’m very pleased with the drawers. Slips and solid bottoms were worth the extra effort.
- The PC position is a little unique and I think it is quite elegant.
- I was concerned that not having a skirt on the front would compromise stability. It did, but only very slightly.
- I’m sold on water based poly. It’s quick drying and the extra cost is cancelled by not having to buy mineral spirits for the cleanup.
Regrets:
- One of the drawers was glued up on an untrue surface and would not sit flat. I was able to plane it true but this was an anxious process.
- The poly is cracked where the breadboard end and the top are sliding. I’m pleased to see it moving in the correct way but did not foresee the effect on the finish. Is there a way to prevent this?
- I was a bit lazy attaching the top only in the corners and the weight of the PC is causing the frame to sag away from the top slightly. I must reinforce in the centre.
- I made an irreparable mark in the top AFTER the whole thing was finished when I turned it over to plane the underside of the drawer runners after noticing they were a bit rough. More care would have prevented this.
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12 comments so far
mzmac
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46 posts in 153 days
posted 121 days ago
Very nice table. I wish I had such exotic cut-offs in my shop.
SeniorChief
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41 posts in 213 days
posted 121 days ago
Sam, I do not know what the fix is to the wipe on poly, I have never used poly for any of my projects. For the bottom to support the sag, how about a strecher attached fore and aft to the aprons using pocket hole system (this pending how you have the top attached now) but ensure you have slotted this strecher piece to continue allowing for wood growth. Also note pine will grow and shrink more over time than the top. I hope this helps, but nevertheless, great table.
-- When you are at a point in life and you think there is nothing more to learn, then you must understand that you have learned nothing at all. Billy
Beginningwoodworker
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470 posts in 159 days
posted 121 days ago
Very nice work.
-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker
trifern
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4065 posts in 253 days
posted 121 days ago
Nice project. Thank you for sharing.
-- Depend on the rabbit's foot if you will, but remember it didn't work for the rabbit.
Jon3
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253 posts in 591 days
posted 120 days ago
That came out great sam. Draws look good.
SteveKorz
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1335 posts in 200 days
posted 120 days ago
That’s a great desk, fine job!
-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)
jeanmarc
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1752 posts in 202 days
posted 120 days ago
Very nice work.
-- jeanmarc manosque france
jockmike2
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4142 posts in 733 days
posted 120 days ago
Looks very nice to me. Mike
-- Mike. Profisher50@yahoo.com
SamT
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5 posts in 121 days
posted 120 days ago
Thanks for all the comments. There is probably enough timber in the middle of the frame to support the sag; I just need to make more attachments to the top.
Davesfunwoodworking
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222 posts in 361 days
posted 120 days ago
I like the dovetails. Did you cut them by hand??? Nice job.
-- Davesfunwoodworking
SamT
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5 posts in 121 days
posted 120 days ago
I do my dovetails with a sort of hand cut sort of machine cut hybrid.
A few years back I was inspired by this article, which unfortunately you need a subscription to access now.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2748
I cut the tails on the tablesaw with the blade set on an angle, riding the workpiece on a sled. The minimum pin width is determined by the kerf of the tablesaw blade. I removed the waste between the tails with a chisel, but confidence with the coping saw is going to be my strategy for this next time.
Then I mark and waste out the pins with a router cutting near to my scribe marks, and hand chisel to fit. The tails are fitted a hair proud of the pins and planed flush.
Kipster
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1069 posts in 239 days
posted 119 days ago
Nice table!!!
-- Kip Northern Illinois ( If you don't know where your goin any road will take you there) George Harrison