|Project by Roz||posted 369 days ago||2812 views||12 times favorited||14 comments|
The majority of the work in this project was in the top which I made from a reclaimed Maple workbench top that had become delaminated from age and moisture. I had to lightly plane all glue joints and re-assemble the top. I used #20 biscuits about every 4 inches to keep it relatively straight and then added two large pieces of Maple to the outside to add 3 ½ inches width to the original 28X60 top, now reduced by the planer. I left the new boards, salvaged from a crate which contained the top for my kitchen Island project, long enough to meet the dimension of my saw table. All of this had to be run though a friend’s 48” planer to get a flat top and bottom surface. The long end was capped and filled with a removable insert of Red and White oak I made from cutoffs left from other projects and was half lap jointed. I functions as an out feed area and is easily removed when clamping space is needed on that end. It was finished in 6 sanded coats of water based Poly because I had some left over.
The Cabinet is made of ¾ inch Birch plywood and one half is a drawer bank for saw accessories and hand planes, with the other half used to store small clamps which use to fall like rain drops with each mallet swing. The drawer boxes are Red Oak with luane bottoms and ball bearing slides. The cabinet finish is from a donated can of Pecan stain that must be 30 years old and of some brand I do not know, but I real like the color. I gave it 2 coats of lacquer and it was done.
The bottom drawer contains a saw blade rack for extra blades. I made this from a 2X4 cutoff by cutting 15 degree cuts spaces ½ inch apart. Because I have my blades sharpened they come back to me with a coating on them and the slots cut had to be wide enough to accommodate that. The two outer blades of a stacked dado worked fine for this. I placed a molded strip opposite the rack to stop the blades from rolling out. I also store extra blades for my other saws which are of various sizes. A removable filler which fits over the stop bar takes up the space needed to keep the small blades still.
The Slide outs are ¾ inch Burch with Red oak strips on the ends which must slide. They are made to slide straight by Red Oak strips bottom and top and lubricated with soap shavings imbedded in the wood grain. The various hangers are made from moldings I had cut for other projects like The Motor Home Make Over, extra toy parts and whatever I found in my scrap bend.
The cabinet is supported by a Red Oak 1X6 box frame lap jointed together and it all rides on 6 lockable 3 inch commercial grade casters. The assembled project is 1/2 inch lower than the saw table to allow miter travel and not to cause hanging problems with material being sawn. This is important with my saw because the fence rides on a front and rear rail requiring a gap be maintained at the back.
Hardware was a combination of purchased for the porject and recycled door pulls cleaned up and painted. There is some mix matching of drawer handle styles but none are side by side.
The old table was headed for the junk pile when I discovered it solved my problem with accurately cutting full sheets of material on the saw so I moved the brackets 45 degrees and rolled it into place. Both tables can be removed in second and my shop it getting better organized all the time.
Thanks for your time. t
-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."