|Project by Karson||posted 06-08-2008 05:03 AM||6382 views||30 times favorited||32 comments|
Today June 7 2008, our woodworking club Mason Dixon Woodworkers Delmar De. had a class to make spokeshaves. It was in the shop of one of our members and the cost was $60.00 and $40.00 of that was for the blade make by Kansas City Windsor Tool Works Three people took the class.
Ed, our moderator – instructor is into making Windsor furniture so he uses these tools for shaping the spindles etc.
Ed’s collection of spoke shaves.
You get the center of the block and start marking some of the cuts.
Drill the holes for the blade placement.
This is the blade we used. It is the medium size. They make a smaller one and a larger one.
The holes drilled.
use a dado blade to cut out for the space under the blade.
A router bit was used to cut the space under the blade.
Screws are put under the blade for the height adjustment.
A brass plate is cut and placed as a wear surface in front of the cutting edge of the blade.
A bandsaw is used to make the initial shaping of the handle and then files are used to to the intermediate shaping.
Sandpaper is used to do the final shaping.
Adjusting the brass plate to fit the edges of the spokeshave.
The brass plate on my spokeshave just clears the blade edge. The blade can be adjusted below the surface of the brass and will keep it from getting knocked around.
We started at 9:00 am worked leisurely took an hour for lunch and were done by 3:00pm. A lot of changing drill sizes for screws and countersinking, but everyone was able to keep together so there was not a lot of waiting for a tool or tool station to come available. We used Nickelson #49 and #50 files to do the shaping.
There is no finish on mine yet. I bought another blade and plan to make another one with some exotic wook.
Additional comments about the setting of the brass throat plate in relationship to the blade.
One additional note. I didn’t install the brass plate the way that they suggest in the instructions. The plate was 1/16” thick X ½ wide. You need about 3/8” in use So I installed the blade in the slot by sanding the length to match the Dado cut and then I drilled and countersunk the screws 2- #4 3/8” and screwed the plate down. I then placed the blade in and found out how much I needed to remove to give the clearance for the blade at the throat. I sanded the brass away until the blade would go below the surface of the brass. It took a few trials to get it correct. Some of the MFg ones that they had at the class had a throat space of about 1/16”. Mine is in the thousands.
I replaced the steel screws with brass screws #4 – 3/8” and then sanded the brass away on the outside and on the bottom so that it was flush with the wood. I’ll polish the brass later. Some of the screw heads were sanded down but the slot is still there if I need to remove later..
-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware firstname.lastname@example.org †