Custom made zero clearence insert for C10FL Table Saw

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Project by Blackie_ posted 02-06-2013 12:51 AM 2393 views 0 times favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch

My table saw is a discontinued model, Hitachi C10FL, which has been for the most part a pretty decent TS since I first bought new from Lowes years ago, it has mixed reviews only thing I’ve had to replace was the fence from the factory crap fence to a Delta T1 fence, only other thing missing now is a zero clearance insert which I’ve gone without ever since I’ve owned it until yesterday, it’s been on my to do list for a long time so I decided to take the time and get it done, Woodcraft makes one that fits the saw for $24 and some change in which I almost went down and purchased until I tackled making my own.

I took a 1/4 piece of ply board, using the factory insert as a template I drew the pattern out then with my bandsaw I cut the new insert out, I then used the belt sander to plan it to the 1/6th” thickness I needed, I drilled the screw hole on one end and counter sunk the screw head but that left the other end still loose kind of sticking up a bit and so after studying the factory insert it hit me, add a lip like the factory has so once again using a piece of Alder I used the bandsaw to make the catch I then used a #8 pan head wood screw to hold it to the bottom side of the insert also counter sinking the head into the wood, came out great and functional, lastly I took some paste wax and rubbed the new insert down.

This one will work for the time being but I plan on upgrading to a hard wood insert using the same method pretty soon, this one will get me by for now.

Thanks for looking

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

18 comments so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

17368 posts in 1304 days

#1 posted 02-06-2013 01:18 AM

Good job. I need one for mine as well.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View BusterB's profile


1668 posts in 974 days

#2 posted 02-06-2013 01:21 AM

I have been wanting to do one of those but I have the 3HP Craftsman with a rectangular insert that sits to one side of the blade only…. sigh. Nice job on the insert randy

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View longgone's profile


5688 posts in 2274 days

#3 posted 02-06-2013 01:25 AM

A zero clearance insert is a must and you made a nice one and definitely cheaper than spending your money to buy one. I also have a zero clearance insert for 45 degree miters that comes in extremely handy…food for thought.

View Blackie_'s profile


4182 posts in 1478 days

#4 posted 02-06-2013 01:41 AM

Thanks Greg I never thought about making one for a 45, another next on the list, I still need a sled too.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View woodshaver's profile


3159 posts in 2319 days

#5 posted 02-06-2013 01:43 AM

Good job! You can’t go wrong making your own zero clearance inserts! I use one all the time! A must have if you asked me!

-- Tony C St Augustine FL, My high school shop teacher said "You can do it"... Now I can't stop!

View derosa's profile


1567 posts in 1802 days

#6 posted 02-06-2013 04:34 AM

I made mine for this saw as well. I used the router with a flush trim bit to do it and just made an extra so I didn’t have to use the metal insert next time I need to make one. I used oak but I could see the plywood being better stability wise.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Ted78's profile


160 posts in 966 days

#7 posted 02-06-2013 04:36 AM

BusterB I had that same one side Craftsman thing you have. I did make a zero clearance insert for it out of hardboard that worked OK. I had to miter the left edge of it to fit flush with table saw top, and the insert gets pretty skinny on that side. Then I just used small washers under the insert to bring it flush with the table top and of course counter sunk the screws into the insert. If I did it again I’d use something sturdier than hardboard, as it did eventually break. It was a pain to take on and off, but worth having since w/o it any time I cut a small piece off it would either jam into the things and get all torn up or fall into the table saw, a real pain when the small piece is the one you wanted. Why Craftsman tried to re-invent the wheel I don’t know.

Nice job on yours Randy.

-- Ted

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

13639 posts in 2071 days

#8 posted 02-06-2013 05:34 AM

Nice one, randy!!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Boxguy's profile


1776 posts in 1233 days

#9 posted 02-06-2013 06:21 AM

Nice job. I usually make my inserts a little thick. I insert it into place and use a random orbital sander and a rougher grade of sand paper to sand it down until it is perfectly flush with the top. The grit doesn’t seem to touch the steel saw top and does take away the wood until it is perfectly flush.

-- Big Al in IN

View oldnovice's profile


4097 posts in 2334 days

#10 posted 02-06-2013 07:27 AM

You did good, these are really nice! These will help take the “scary” out of cutting items that may fall next to the blade!
I have a number of zero clearance inserts because the factory original had an opening nearly 3/4” wide to accommodate the tilt of the blade and when I do tilt I use one of my shop made ones instead!

I just attach the factory insert to the new blank material and use it as a template and let the TS blade cut the blade slot.

I have been known to make inserts for others!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Tom Godfrey's profile

Tom Godfrey

486 posts in 1142 days

#11 posted 02-06-2013 07:02 PM

I got the same table saw but all I did was to cut a thin piece of oak and glued it with CA glue to the bottom of the plate. Once the glue sets up just turn on the saw and let it cut its way up. Just a few mintues and very cheap. I forgot I have to work cheap.
I like trying make things work without spending money.

-- Tom Godfrey Landrum South Carolina (

View Blackie_'s profile


4182 posts in 1478 days

#12 posted 02-06-2013 07:47 PM

Tom unless you routed the 1/6th so that the wood comes up through the gap in the metal insert flush with the top of the metal insert you’ll have a 1/16” drop, I didn’t want the drop, I wanted it up flush with the top of the table saw.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View DaddyZ's profile


2471 posts in 2006 days

#13 posted 02-06-2013 07:53 PM

Check out Mine

Click for details

-- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one

View Blackie_'s profile


4182 posts in 1478 days

#14 posted 02-06-2013 09:41 PM

LOL Daddyz I was over on yours and posted mine under yours, so now I’m going to have to post mine under yours again. Hahah. I’m going to improve mine with hard wood and also make another for 45 miter cuts

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View airfieldman's profile


184 posts in 2777 days

#15 posted 02-07-2013 02:40 AM

This is kind of humorous…I have the same saw and last night I started making my new zero clearance inserts. I made one a few years ago, but never really liked it. I’m using hard wood laminate flooring.

Anyway, nice job on yours!

-- Measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, cut it with a chainsaw.

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