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HPL Extension Added On My G0661 Table Saw

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Project by kdc68 posted 01-31-2013 04:03 AM 3427 views 10 times favorited 29 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I just purchased this G0661 Table Saw. Once I had it all assembled I thought it needed an extension on the far right. I choose to use High Pressure Laminate instead of Melamine. It was more expensive to use, but it will more durable in the long run. The picture below shows the saw without the extension

In the picture below it shows I used poplar for the frame around the extension. I drilled four 1/4” holes through the cast iron extension and 5/16” holes through the poplar. I used four 1/4” x 1-1/2” hex bolts, flat washers, and lock washers to fasten the poplar against the cast iron extension. The pieces are clamped to the rails for layout. I drilled 1/4” holes through the rails and 5/16” holes through the poplar. I had to remove the square stock tube to countersink the hole for a 1/4” x 1-1/2” flat head machine screw. The rear rail I used a 1/4” x 1-1/2” hex bolt. One hole at the far end on each of the two rails. Again I used flat washers and lock washers.

In the picture below shows the underside of the extension. The substraight is 3/4” MDF. I removed the poplar I used against the cast iron extension and fastened to the cleats as an assembly. Note the cleats are in sections to make room for the hex bolts on that piece. I used cleats around the remaining three sides to fasten the other three poplar pieces to (later on). I used a stiffener in the middle. The stiffener is there because I wanted something in the middle of the span to fasten the two poplar side pieces (brad nailed through the face of the poplar side pieces into the end of the stiffener) and add rigidity to the top

In the picture below it shows the topside of the extension. I cut a piece of HPL about 1” bigger than the width and length of the extension. I used contact cement to adhere this. Two coats on the MDF and one coat on the HPL. When dried (tacky) I carefully applied the HPL to the MDF. I used a laminate roller to remove air bubbles and securely flatten the HPL. Then used a flush trim bit in a router to flush the edges. Once that was all done, I secured the three perimeter pieces to the cleats and flush to the HPL. I mitered the ends on the two outer corners. Note the poplar has a beveled edge on these three pieces. I ripped the bevel prior to assembly. The cast iron top has a beveled edge of about 10.5 degrees. I matched the bevel on the polar to give them a smooth transition from cast iron to wood. Once those pieces were assembled I applied 3 coats of poly to the poplar. Once dry I assembled the extension simailar to the cast iron extensions.


-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once





29 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112300 posts in 2264 days


#1 posted 01-31-2013 06:37 AM

Very slick great job.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 964 days


#2 posted 01-31-2013 11:50 AM

a1Jim - Thanks for the compliment

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 964 days


#3 posted 01-31-2013 11:52 AM

I also posted a review of this saw. It’s been a great addition to my workshop

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View WoodSimplyMade's profile

WoodSimplyMade

188 posts in 2007 days


#4 posted 01-31-2013 01:57 PM

Great addition to your table saw! That would definately come in handy.

-- Mike, Florida, http://www.woodsimplymade.com

View DocHollandaise's profile

DocHollandaise

5 posts in 818 days


#5 posted 01-31-2013 02:45 PM

I really like the extension. Does that 50”+ fence rail come stock with the saw? How do you like that fence? I picked up an old grizzly G1023 table saw off craigslist. The saw is awesome but the fence is homemade and rather pathetic. I’m totally unsure about what to buy. Always curious what other people have.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2335 days


#6 posted 01-31-2013 02:58 PM

first and foremost – nice build.

but, I have a question: Seeing that your fence is a Beismeyer type fence (rides on front/back rails throughout it’s travel and not on the actual table like some other fences) what benefit does the added extension table provides you with?

I have a similar fence setup but never saw a need (pun intended) for that extra table surface and am curious if I might be missing something here. the only reason I could think of is to add a router table into it?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View WoodSimplyMade's profile

WoodSimplyMade

188 posts in 2007 days


#7 posted 01-31-2013 03:09 PM

@PurpLev When I crosscut 1/4” ply and have pieces that are shorter in width than the width of the table the end tends to fall under the fence if I am using it that far of the main table. A set up like this would provide support to the thin plywood and keep it rigid.

-- Mike, Florida, http://www.woodsimplymade.com

View TexasJim's profile

TexasJim

86 posts in 1923 days


#8 posted 01-31-2013 09:39 PM

Nice extension. I bought a 661 a couple of years ago and love it. Not too many folks that I know of have one and I don’t really understand why it is not more popular.

-- If the world was a logical place, men would be the ones who ride horses sidesaddle.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 964 days


#9 posted 01-31-2013 11:01 PM

DocHollanaise – Yes it comes standard with the saw. It has 36” rip capacity. The fence is nice. The adjustments to get it aligned were easy to do. It glides real smooth. The aluminum facing is flat all down it’s length. It’s been a pleasure setting it to width. No more measuring from the blade for width of cut. And no more measuring from miter slot at each end for alignment like I used to do with my old Craftsman saw

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 964 days


#10 posted 01-31-2013 11:18 PM

PurpLev- Thanks for the compliment and a good question. To me it serves two purposes. About 22” or 1/3 of it’s 66” length was wasted space, so visually I thought it needed something there. And two, I thought it would be a great surface to organize my workpieces as I was cutting them. A pile for stiles and a pile for rails for example. Adding a router table would be very practical and I probably would have done so if I didn’t have a dedicated router table.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 964 days


#11 posted 01-31-2013 11:26 PM

TexasJim – Thanks for the compliment. Good to hear you love yours. That’s encouraging! If it is popular, nobody’s sharing it with the rest of us. It was hard to find info/reviews. I felt I was taking a bit of a gamble not knowing what others thought about it. So far it’s been a great.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 964 days


#12 posted 01-31-2013 11:28 PM

WoodSimplyMade – Thanks. I like the fact I have more surface area now.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

15090 posts in 1876 days


#13 posted 02-01-2013 12:49 AM

Well done this is very clean, looks great… Should serve you well for a long time.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 964 days


#14 posted 02-01-2013 12:53 AM

Ken90712- Thanks. I hope it does

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View crashn's profile

crashn

518 posts in 1152 days


#15 posted 02-01-2013 01:59 AM

Purplev, another reason is to support thin sheet goods so they do not tip under the fence. I have had that happen when cross cutting thin plywood. the weight of the piece on the unsupported side bows downward and can slip under the fence.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

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