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Shop Made Bar Rail/Moulding

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Project by EWJSMITH posted 462 days ago 3306 views 4 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Hi all,

For anyone following my blog on the custom bar build (a slow moving blog it is though!) I’m at the point now where I can start to mill the bar rail/arm moulding, whatever you want to call it. I’ve read a couple of posts on this and they were very helpful on how to make this moulding. I really wanted to make it from a single solid piece to eliminate the need to laminate boards together. Using a piece of 1” thick pine as my test/prototype piece, here is what I came up with.

The blank stock is a 4” wide x 1” thick. It consists of a cove cut from the table saw and a couple of rabbets. My initial thought was just to have the cove cut and attach this to the bar top and then edge the exposed plywood as shown below (plywood hasn’t been edged yet as you can tell :-))

But again, this could result in a visible glue line between the moulding and the edge trim. So after reading another post on ‘angling’ the moulding toward the patron -something that I hadn’t though of – (thanks to Bob Areddy – here is his post http://lumberjocks.com/rareddy/blog/13189 on his bar rail) I decided to adjust his design to meet my needs. I sort of did this backwards by cutting the cove first. WHen I do this in the production run, that won’t be the case – rabbets first, cove last. Anyways, the following pic shows what I did to transform the 4×1 blank into the shape of the moulding:

Tilting a dado blade would be the easiest way to cut rabbet A but as I don’t have a dado blade I had to figure how to cut the rabbet. At first, I thought I’d made a ramp for my router that would tip the router to the correct angle and run it down the length of the blank. But instead I chucked a 1/2” straight bit in my router table and then made a 1.5” rail that I attached to my router fence. This rail allowed me to tip the blank at the correct angle as I fed it over the bit. I simply adjusted the fence to/from the bit to remove all the waste. Hopefully the following diagram gives a clear pic of what I did.

Rabbet B was cut on the table saw by tilting the blade and making two cuts – one while running the blank on its edge, then a second cut running it on it’s face.

The result is a moulding that sits on the bar top as shown below (pic taken at the computer desk – too lazy to head back to the shop for another pic :-)) All that I would need to do is to mount a strip the length of the bar top that will be the resting point for the rabbet at the back of the moulding (rabbet B).

I think it looks much better than my original plan and will give a nice finished look to the bar.

If anyone has any questions on what I did or better yet, any suggestions as to how to do this any other way, please post them up.

As usual, thanks for looking!

Regards,
Ed





4 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

109523 posts in 2082 days


#1 posted 462 days ago

good job Ed. creative thinking gets it done.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

10897 posts in 843 days


#2 posted 462 days ago

Great job, great tutorial

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

14625 posts in 1372 days


#3 posted 462 days ago

Your profile is exactly like we would run them on a molder. Great example of shop made molding. You did a nice job.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View grosa's profile

grosa

873 posts in 1334 days


#4 posted 437 days ago

Good job on this gull wing bar molding.

-- Have a great day.

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