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The top 3 drawers have through dovetails.the 6 lower will have half blind.
*not using metal slides…wooden(.)
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352 posts in 816 days
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#1 posted 01-13-2013 10:51 PM
It’s coming along nicely .
-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture
#2 posted 01-13-2013 10:52 PM
that was SUPER fast Jim, wow. Thanks
3729 posts in 1636 days
#3 posted 01-13-2013 11:04 PM
Looks good so far. How are you attaching the drawer dividers for the lower 6 drawers?Thanks for posting.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
#4 posted 01-13-2013 11:05 PM
Drawers not bottomed or sanded yet…I groove 7/8ths the length of the drawer side with a 1” bit, 1/4” deep for round ended side runners made of teak. Stops are a sprung wooden “clips” in the center front above and behind the opening…push clip up drawer comes out.
The bottom 6, will be side runners, stops incorporated into runners with a brass pin inside drawer that runs into slot in runner, when it hits end, pull brass pin and drawer comes out.
All matched grains from one Cherry find.Maple is unmatched.Top is 4 boards, Whiteside glue-joint bit, 1” thick, dressed on 3 sides with table-top bit
#5 posted 01-13-2013 11:06 PM
No dividers. 3 drawers run on separate side groove wooden runners; open.
#6 posted 01-13-2013 11:15 PM
The Cabinet is glued up, but top is just sitting a top the cab, and DRAWERS are not glued, just dry-fit, just completed the joinery today..they have no bottoms, just a mock-up
#7 posted 01-28-2013 10:46 PM
Started work on drawer runners; all drawers sanded and ready for 1” guide slots and 15/16” runners
Top 3 drawers have through dove’s in front face-half blind in back, bottom 6 are half blind front & back
#8 posted 01-31-2013 10:43 PM
I have finished installing the drawer runners and adjusted all…perfect fits all around, pays to be precise, really does.
#9 posted 02-01-2013 05:37 PM
Looking good now!
#10 posted 02-01-2013 10:58 PM
right on Willie
838 posts in 1183 days
#11 posted 02-07-2013 09:28 PM
Very nicely done Joe! I like your approach to the drawer slides! I imagine a little wax and those things probably slide smoother than the metal ball bearing slides.
#12 posted 02-08-2013 02:33 AM
thanks man!I have some new pics soon.I have it all put together and a coat of Danish Oil so far, letting it dry for a few days, then Arm-R-Seal.I will post pics tomorrow.Your right, the drawers glide/slide like bearings, I put Johnsons wax on the grooves and slides.I use Johnsons for my cast iron machine tops and drawer glides and such.For finishes I strictly use Goddards. Just my way, but any good wax works.
#13 posted 02-15-2013 12:54 AM
Update:working on the finish.I’ve giving all parts 2 coats of Watco Danish oil Natural, dried for 4 days.I’ve applied 2 coats Arm-R-Seal Satin, 320 in between coats, third tomorow, then 2 coats Goddards wax
#14 posted 02-15-2013 01:06 AM
Looks perfect right now! I’d go straight to waxing.
#15 posted 02-15-2013 01:20 AM
Ha, I know huh…I could, but I always do 3 coats, and besides, the bed that goes with it got 3, so 3 it is, I could, in the future, probably go with 2, it does look good…the Mirka Gold 320 g after the first coat did a lot for it, I sanded really lightly by hand and cleaned it really well.Thanks Willie
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