| Project by The Box Whisperer | posted 130 days ago | 2114 views | 11 times favorited | 17 comments | ![]() |
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I got a Ryobi 10” benchtop drill press for Christmas (Thank you father in law!) and I knew right away I would nto only need a table for it but a new bench to mount it as well. My shop is a small basement deal and I have to be efficient with space. When I build a new bench, I keep it simple, and use pine 2×4s and 3/4 ply. Some day I will build a proper hardwood traditional bench, when I have the space for it (plug to wife to take over whole basement). For now, Id rather put my effort into boxes and other projects and keep the bench simple.
The drill press table itself I wanted a little more out of. I read literally every drill press project on this site, some 2 or 3 times. Thanks guys! I went over the possible features, and decided to focus on what was important to me rather then including them all. The other key point for me was cost. I don’t have a lot of money and wanted to buy as little as possible. I had an old kreg top track from a retired jig, 2’ of t-track, some basic ply, some fancy birch ply and some decent hardwood. I decided that since I already have a nice bench top belt/drum sander, that I likely wouldnt be using this for sanding and could forgo elaborate dust collection. If I do a lot of repeat work I can use wire and t-bolts to hold my shop vac hose close by. What I really wanted was a self squaring fence, and I also straight up stole the sub fence idea from a woodworker on here far more talented then I am. I also wanted to be able to use the space under the table for assembly work. The table itself is birch ply glued and screwed to pine ply, 20”x12”. I countersunk bolts between these layers to mount on the metal table. I cut out the insert section with my jigsaw and used a rabbit bit to make a ledge, but at some point Ill have to go back and clean up the whole thing with clamped edges and my router, because my jigsaw is a POS and the cutting is a little sloppy. The inserts are 1/4” hardboard. The fence is a kreg top track flipped sideways and mounted to a piece of 3/4” oak. Not it’s intended use but it works well for this I think. I had some 1/2” birch ply scraps so I glued and screwed a couple together and used them for the fences “squaring arm” on the back of the arm I put a strip of low friction tape from lee valley, and it made a big difference. The mini fence (again, I ripped this off) is just oak scrap with t-track scrap and a couple bolts and knobs. stop blocks are yet again more oak scrap.
End result is it could be prettier but it sure will come in handy. I’m building rug hooking frames and it requires a lot of repeat drilling. I also must admit, that I’m a shop junkie and could not own a drill press without having a table for it. I could have gotten a nice one for 100 bucks but this one should work just fine and only cost me 5 bucks to make (1/4” hardboard)
Any and all feedback is welcome!
-- The Box Whisperer
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17 comments so far
a1Jim
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87138 posts in 1746 days
#1 posted 130 days ago
Super job.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
The Box Whisperer
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132 posts in 239 days
#2 posted 130 days ago
Thanks Jim. I have noticed you post a lot of positive feedback on here. Please know that it is noticed. Also, your work is amazing. If someday I have 3/8ths of your talent Id be happy.
-- The Box Whisperer
whitebeast88
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1868 posts in 359 days
#3 posted 130 days ago
great looking table,thanks for sharing!!!
-- It don't have to be straight,it's just a suggestion!!!
SouthHollow
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62 posts in 650 days
#4 posted 130 days ago
I love how you’ve got that built into the bench to keep the assembly area. Very slick.
-- Alex, Los Angeles
The Box Whisperer
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132 posts in 239 days
#5 posted 130 days ago
Thanks SouthHollow, I really cant afford to lose the space, and the insert piece pulls right out if I need to move the drill. I ran out of ply, but next time I have a piece Ill cut a longer hole so that I have the space behind the drill press as well.
-- The Box Whisperer
BrandonR
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52 posts in 462 days
#6 posted 129 days ago
Looks great, something that has been on my list for a while! Did that drill press have a crank with a handle to move the old metal table up and down? When thinking about my table design I keep getting stuck on that, because when I need to crank the handle it needs clearance right where my table would be….. Did you run into this problem?
The Box Whisperer
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132 posts in 239 days
#7 posted 129 days ago
Brandon, I was worried abotu this too, but it seems the good folks at Ryobi thought of it. The crank handle on my press is offset towards the back. It would only interfere with the table if the table was built past the supporting pipe/column if that makes sense. I built my table flush with the back of the existing metal table. I lose a little in size but I need to be able to crank the arm….
-- The Box Whisperer
BusterB
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669 posts in 177 days
#8 posted 129 days ago
Very good upgrade on the drill press. Should make projecting easier. I added space to my wee metal table by adding a piece of 3/4” plywood. May have to go back and add some of the bells and whistles like you did someday. Nice work!!!
-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)
The Box Whisperer
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132 posts in 239 days
#9 posted 129 days ago
Thanks very much, even if I had to buy more of the stuff for it you coudl always make your own t-track. for me if I could only have one feature it would be the self squaring fence.
-- The Box Whisperer
clieb91
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2674 posts in 2103 days
#10 posted 129 days ago
Real nice solution to the smaller table. I too like the extra bench area. I have mine set up so the mitersaw can have a board extending under it in order to save some space. I got a new miter saw recently and have to build wings for it. Thanks for the reminder. Would be very good to do this weekend as I am working on cleaning up the shop.
CtL
-- Chris L. "Don't Dream it, Be it."
Shan
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30 posts in 1373 days
#11 posted 129 days ago
Nice Job. This will definitely make your work easier and more enjoyable.
-- SeeWhatISaw
iamcliff
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237 posts in 321 days
#12 posted 129 days ago
Nice job. I need to make one of these.
-- Cliff. Proverbs 16:9
SawTooth1953
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240 posts in 1474 days
#13 posted 129 days ago
It does look very nice and neat. The flat workspace below is nice to have… One of those “why didn’t I think of that” things that I’ll now have to do for mine.
I want to know what’s with the “self-squaring fence”? Table saw and band saw I understand, but the drill press is like a router table in that the distance from fence to bit is whatever you set it to be and does not need to be squared to anything… holes in a line are referenced from the fence and so are spaced holes by using a system of stops on the fence… or am I missing something?
-- Spence in Skokie, IL
The Box Whisperer
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132 posts in 239 days
#14 posted 128 days ago
Sawtooth, I dont know, maybe its just a thing stuck in my head. My first fence was on my table saw, so obviously that had to be square. For my router table, I know everyone says it does not matter, but I use and incra jig to do dovetails, and the guide I believe says to keep the fence square for sliding and cornerpost dovetails. This got me into the habit. Like I say, maybe its habit from the incra or maybe its just something stuck in my head but whenever I set up a fence I square it. This way I wont have to. If this is a complete waste of my time then hopefully Ill be able to get over it someday.
-- The Box Whisperer
SawTooth1953
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240 posts in 1474 days
#15 posted 128 days ago
Box, As long as you have a fence that works, nobody can call it a “complete waste of time”. And I won’t be surprised if someone comes along to explain some circumstances where the squared fence is a requirement.
-- Spence in Skokie, IL
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