LumberJocks

drill press bench and table

  • Advertise with us
Project by The Box Whisperer posted 01-11-2013 11:44 PM 3924 views 16 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I got a Ryobi 10” benchtop drill press for Christmas (Thank you father in law!) and I knew right away I would nto only need a table for it but a new bench to mount it as well. My shop is a small basement deal and I have to be efficient with space. When I build a new bench, I keep it simple, and use pine 2×4s and 3/4 ply. Some day I will build a proper hardwood traditional bench, when I have the space for it (plug to wife to take over whole basement). For now, Id rather put my effort into boxes and other projects and keep the bench simple.

The drill press table itself I wanted a little more out of. I read literally every drill press project on this site, some 2 or 3 times. Thanks guys! I went over the possible features, and decided to focus on what was important to me rather then including them all. The other key point for me was cost. I don’t have a lot of money and wanted to buy as little as possible. I had an old kreg top track from a retired jig, 2’ of t-track, some basic ply, some fancy birch ply and some decent hardwood. I decided that since I already have a nice bench top belt/drum sander, that I likely wouldnt be using this for sanding and could forgo elaborate dust collection. If I do a lot of repeat work I can use wire and t-bolts to hold my shop vac hose close by. What I really wanted was a self squaring fence, and I also straight up stole the sub fence idea from a woodworker on here far more talented then I am. I also wanted to be able to use the space under the table for assembly work. The table itself is birch ply glued and screwed to pine ply, 20”x12”. I countersunk bolts between these layers to mount on the metal table. I cut out the insert section with my jigsaw and used a rabbit bit to make a ledge, but at some point Ill have to go back and clean up the whole thing with clamped edges and my router, because my jigsaw is a POS and the cutting is a little sloppy. The inserts are 1/4” hardboard. The fence is a kreg top track flipped sideways and mounted to a piece of 3/4” oak. Not it’s intended use but it works well for this I think. I had some 1/2” birch ply scraps so I glued and screwed a couple together and used them for the fences “squaring arm” on the back of the arm I put a strip of low friction tape from lee valley, and it made a big difference. The mini fence (again, I ripped this off) is just oak scrap with t-track scrap and a couple bolts and knobs. stop blocks are yet again more oak scrap.

End result is it could be prettier but it sure will come in handy. I’m building rug hooking frames and it requires a lot of repeat drilling. I also must admit, that I’m a shop junkie and could not own a drill press without having a table for it. I could have gotten a nice one for 100 bucks but this one should work just fine and only cost me 5 bucks to make (1/4” hardboard)

Any and all feedback is welcome!

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil





17 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112298 posts in 2263 days


#1 posted 01-11-2013 11:54 PM

Super job.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

671 posts in 756 days


#2 posted 01-11-2013 11:56 PM

Thanks Jim. I have noticed you post a lot of positive feedback on here. Please know that it is noticed. Also, your work is amazing. If someday I have 3/8ths of your talent Id be happy.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

View whitebeast88's profile

whitebeast88

3548 posts in 876 days


#3 posted 01-12-2013 12:35 AM

great looking table,thanks for sharing!!!

-- Marty.Athens,AL

View SouthHollow's profile

SouthHollow

66 posts in 1167 days


#4 posted 01-12-2013 12:39 AM

I love how you’ve got that built into the bench to keep the assembly area. Very slick.

-- Alex, Los Angeles

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

671 posts in 756 days


#5 posted 01-12-2013 12:45 AM

Thanks SouthHollow, I really cant afford to lose the space, and the insert piece pulls right out if I need to move the drill. I ran out of ply, but next time I have a piece Ill cut a longer hole so that I have the space behind the drill press as well.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

View BrandonR's profile

BrandonR

56 posts in 979 days


#6 posted 01-12-2013 09:22 AM

Looks great, something that has been on my list for a while! Did that drill press have a crank with a handle to move the old metal table up and down? When thinking about my table design I keep getting stuck on that, because when I need to crank the handle it needs clearance right where my table would be….. Did you run into this problem?

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

671 posts in 756 days


#7 posted 01-12-2013 12:10 PM

Brandon, I was worried abotu this too, but it seems the good folks at Ryobi thought of it. The crank handle on my press is offset towards the back. It would only interfere with the table if the table was built past the supporting pipe/column if that makes sense. I built my table flush with the back of the existing metal table. I lose a little in size but I need to be able to crank the arm….

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

View BusterB's profile

BusterB

1417 posts in 694 days


#8 posted 01-12-2013 12:22 PM

Very good upgrade on the drill press. Should make projecting easier. I added space to my wee metal table by adding a piece of 3/4” plywood. May have to go back and add some of the bells and whistles like you did someday. Nice work!!!

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

671 posts in 756 days


#9 posted 01-12-2013 12:25 PM

Thanks very much, even if I had to buy more of the stuff for it you coudl always make your own t-track. for me if I could only have one feature it would be the self squaring fence.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

View clieb91's profile

clieb91

3292 posts in 2621 days


#10 posted 01-12-2013 05:34 PM

Real nice solution to the smaller table. I too like the extra bench area. I have mine set up so the mitersaw can have a board extending under it in order to save some space. I got a new miter saw recently and have to build wings for it. Thanks for the reminder. Would be very good to do this weekend as I am working on cleaning up the shop.

CtL

-- Chris L. "Don't Dream it, Be it."- PortablePastimes.com (Purveyors of Portable Fun and Fidgets)

View Shan's profile

Shan

32 posts in 1891 days


#11 posted 01-12-2013 05:35 PM

Nice Job. This will definitely make your work easier and more enjoyable.

-- SeeWhatISaw

View iamcliff's profile

iamcliff

491 posts in 839 days


#12 posted 01-12-2013 09:41 PM

Nice job. I need to make one of these.

-- Chris, http://www.youtube.com/CMRwoodworks , FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/cmrwoodworks1 , Proverbs 16:9

View SawTooth1953's profile

SawTooth1953

279 posts in 1992 days


#13 posted 01-12-2013 10:26 PM

It does look very nice and neat. The flat workspace below is nice to have… One of those “why didn’t I think of that” things that I’ll now have to do for mine.

I want to know what’s with the “self-squaring fence”? Table saw and band saw I understand, but the drill press is like a router table in that the distance from fence to bit is whatever you set it to be and does not need to be squared to anything… holes in a line are referenced from the fence and so are spaced holes by using a system of stops on the fence… or am I missing something?

-- Spence in Skokie, IL

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

671 posts in 756 days


#14 posted 01-13-2013 02:37 AM

Sawtooth, I dont know, maybe its just a thing stuck in my head. My first fence was on my table saw, so obviously that had to be square. For my router table, I know everyone says it does not matter, but I use and incra jig to do dovetails, and the guide I believe says to keep the fence square for sliding and cornerpost dovetails. This got me into the habit. Like I say, maybe its habit from the incra or maybe its just something stuck in my head but whenever I set up a fence I square it. This way I wont have to. If this is a complete waste of my time then hopefully Ill be able to get over it someday.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

View SawTooth1953's profile

SawTooth1953

279 posts in 1992 days


#15 posted 01-13-2013 03:09 AM

Box, As long as you have a fence that works, nobody can call it a “complete waste of time”. And I won’t be surprised if someone comes along to explain some circumstances where the squared fence is a requirement.

-- Spence in Skokie, IL

showing 1 through 15 of 17 comments

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase