|Project by Boxguy||posted 12-20-2012 04:13 AM||2326 views||16 times favorited||37 comments|
Pictured: This jewelry keeper ( 11 1/2 x 9 x 5 ) is made from two trees that grew in Ghana, Africa. The top and corner splines are made of figured Movingui and the sides are figured Etome. This keeper features rounded corners, mortised piano hinges, an attached top, corner splines, a sliding tray, and dividers made of a wooden Venetian blind. It is finished with tung oil and wipe-on poly.
Focus: I would love to know what you think, but here is my view. I think too many of us are neglecting to build the insides of boxes. My goal as a wood crafter is to make long-lasting, useful items that are a joy to touch, a pleasure to see, and a delight to use daily. The best boxes are purpose-driven…that is to say they are meant to do some job, or make some task easier. For that reason I design most boxes from the inside out...size the stuff you want to put into the box and then build the box around that.
Not all, but most of the boxes I see are just boxes. In this economy buyers look at pretty boxes, but buy pretty boxes that will actually do something. Even if you are making a box for a family member or loved one it should be something that is useful and purpose-driven. Give some thought to what the box can do when you build it.
Trays are just boxes with no lids. I want my tray to look every bit as nice as the box itself. Size it so that it slides easily. Mine slide on “rails” that are closely fitted slats on the front and back side of the inside of the box. Generally speaking rails are half the height of the inside (top + bottom) space of the box. This box has a deeper than normal lid to allow larger items to be placed in the top tray.
Tray Sizing Hints: The best trays are 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep. Don’t have your tray run the full length of the box. Let it slide and leave room on the side to easily insert your hand and lift the tray out of the box. Customers say this is much easier than reaching for a handle, it uses the space well, and lets them use either hand to lift out the tray. If the tray is not clearly longer than it is wide…make the tray square so you can put it back inside without worrying about how you picked it up. Since I use a stop chain, there is a rubber bumper on the chain side that spaces the tray away from the inside edge so the tray does not hit against or entangle the chain. Without this bumper the tray could get dumped out as you opened the lid.
Thanks: As always I appreciate all of you who take time look at my postings. I especially appreciate those Lumber Jocks who spend the extra time it takes to make suggestions or ask questions. I respond to all comments in batches later in the same day they are posted, so check back for rejoinders and answers.
-- Big Al in IN