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Bandsaw Fence

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Project by BusterB posted 12-14-2012 10:00 PM 2150 views 9 times favorited 23 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Have a fairly cheap bandsaw and the drift is awlful. Saw this project on youtube and decded to give it a try. Pretty simple a 3/4” runner on one side and a 3/4” dado on the other. Fence mounts to the miter guage that came with the saw. Ok, the deal is supposed to work like this. push a piece of material straight through bandsaw and use this to calculate the angle of drift. Set the fence to this angle and viola….nice straight cuts. Well till you adjust saw or change blades. Will let y’all know if it works….

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)





23 comments so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

14226 posts in 996 days


#1 posted 12-14-2012 10:03 PM

That’s why I don’t use my bandsaw much. I can’t trust it to cut straight. It’s on next years hit list. :-)

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

3257 posts in 664 days


#2 posted 12-15-2012 01:08 AM

My old Delta drifts like a mutha…. Cant hardly cut a straight line to save my life. I’ll hafta search youtube for this. Any chance you got the link saved?

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1182 posts in 1282 days


#3 posted 12-15-2012 01:45 AM

I too thought my saw was flawed. I bought a quality blade (Woodslicer) and put into practice these tips:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
My bandsaw is now the go to saw in the shop.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View BusterB's profile

BusterB

1404 posts in 666 days


#4 posted 12-15-2012 03:48 AM

Hey Joe, I was just doing a youtube search on bandsaw fences and found the video. Guy in it was the editor of fine woodworking or some such. If I can locate it again, will post a link to you sir. Does the big orange store stock those woodslicer blades?

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View BusterB's profile

BusterB

1404 posts in 666 days


#5 posted 12-15-2012 03:50 AM

Thanks Jack….new blade may be what it comes down to if fence doesnt work as advertised….

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View rsain's profile

rsain

50 posts in 1146 days


#6 posted 12-15-2012 04:34 AM

I have an old craftsman band saw (one piece, cast). Drifts like crazy but has a huge resaw capacity for what it is. I can say with confidence that the method you describe WILL WORK. Set your drift each time you change the blade – or realign it, whatever. I never reduce tension on my saw – and there are reasons for this that will generate much discussion (beyond the scope of this thread) – and the two schools of thought will never agree.

Back to the topic though – I upgraded the motor on that old bugger (to 1hp) – and run a 3/8” blade (SuperCut) and can slice nice clean pieces off all day long so long as I keep that fence adjusted to the drift marks I made originally. Used the same approach on an 18” Rikon that I used to work with as well. Only band saw i’ve ever seen that does not have drift? Laguna. You’ll pay for it though.

Good luck! and BTW – nice fence. :-)

- ryan

View Bill_N's profile

Bill_N

234 posts in 936 days


#7 posted 12-15-2012 11:03 AM

I like how it works .
May have to try this one my self

Nice job

-- I have the Saw Dust Fever

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

3257 posts in 664 days


#8 posted 12-15-2012 01:17 PM

I think most of the stores (HD) have all but stopped carrying bandsaw blades in stock. We only sell one saw now and it takes the 59” blades, but the only blade we carry at my store is a 93” one. (I believe it’s a 6tpi blade)
I think folks can still order most of the blades at our website though.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View BusterB's profile

BusterB

1404 posts in 666 days


#9 posted 12-15-2012 01:55 PM

I sure hope it works Ryan…. that thing is drving me nuts….lol

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View BusterB's profile

BusterB

1404 posts in 666 days


#10 posted 12-15-2012 01:57 PM

Thanks Bill….it aint too bad a build, If I can do it anybody can ….lol

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View BusterB's profile

BusterB

1404 posts in 666 days


#11 posted 12-15-2012 01:58 PM

Thanks Joe….will check the storewebsite then…. Mines a HF with a 92.5 so you know thats gonna cost me extra….lol

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3417 posts in 1852 days


#12 posted 12-15-2012 02:55 PM

Here’s a couple of pictures of the one I made about 3 years ago…..Works really good to control bandsaw blade drift, and re-saws pretty decent, too….....

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

View BusterB's profile

BusterB

1404 posts in 666 days


#13 posted 12-15-2012 06:01 PM

Wow….thats really nice Rick…. Thank you for sharing those…..looks like I was headed in right direction….just not as pretty…lol

-- Buster, Ocoee TN (Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place then come down and shoot the survivors - Hemingway)

View jim C's profile

jim C

1452 posts in 1756 days


#14 posted 12-15-2012 06:30 PM

For all you folks that have “drift”, it results from improper blade setup. If the teeth ever touch the hardened guides, (guides are too far forward) it dulls the sides of the teeth and the blade will then follow the path of least resistance.
The way to set up your guides are the following steps:
1. Remove the guides and back off the idler bearings on the back of the blade. (Upper and lower arms.
2. Run the saw to see if the blade is in the center of the wheels.
3. Stop the blade and move the bearings up to the back of the blade (upper and lower) just so they are kissing the blade or even a tiny gap.
4. Slide the guides on the left so they are again just kissing the side of the blade. Make sure they are behind the teeth
5. Repeat on the right side.

Of course do this with a new blade!

You will be amazed how straight the saw cuts with no drift. You won’t have to compensate with a angled fence.

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3417 posts in 1852 days


#15 posted 12-15-2012 07:59 PM

Thanks, Buster…....it works pretty good, even if it is made of MDF…..lol…..Your’s look s just as good, and I bet it works even better…....To me , it controls the drift of the blade pretty good, no matter what anyone else says…....Sure beats free-hand sawing…....And my fence is not compensated with an angle…it is set at 90 degrees, just like yours, looks like…...You can tune and re-tune the saw, and you’ll still get some drift…..it happens…..

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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