|Project by WillAdams||posted 495 days ago||1739 views||1 time favorited||7 comments|
Needed a case to fit my Bear Custom Kodiak T/D and other gear, so my first project since high school shop three decades ago:
- 34 ½” x 11 ½” x ~3 ½”
- red oak boards and 1/8” plywood floating in grooves/dadoes
- uses solid brass hardware throughout (save for the hidden (old-style Stanley) bullet catches and their strike plates, and Chinese rare earth magnets)—- handle: England, stay chain: Italy, hinges and ball catches: U.S.A., catches: Taiwan, corner protectors: unknown, probably China (the bow and everything else is made in the U.S., save for the arrows from Korea)
- rare earth magnets in the arrow holder to keep the arrows in place
- I’ve since installed brass corner protectors
- dovetailed corners for the case, dowel joints for the arrow holder
- all hand tools, save for an electric drill to drill the holes for the arrows—- I’m considering getting a mini circular saw w/ track to cut it apart though
Had to pre-finish the arrowholder and inside of the case (incl. groove / dadoes) since the arrow holder is hinged on 3/8” dowels (lubricated w/ bee’s wax)
Not liking Stanley hardware since they got bought out by National Hardware—- anyone have a stash of N.O.S. Made in the U.S.A. 3/8” bullet catches they’d part with?
Next one will use rare earth magnets w/ a countersunk hole, so arrows can be slightly longer (but I’ll need to put some sort of washer or grommet in the countersink to keep points from chipping the magnet—- or I may install the magnets in thin slots or cover them w/ veneer so the won’t show)
I’d like to source (or make) formed (not flat) solid brass strike plates—- suggestions?
I’d also like to find a key lock which would fit in the less than ½” stock.
The next version won’t have the dividers (instead, I’ll make a wooden box and brass clips to hold it in place on the right) and I’ll probably shorten the arrow holder so it falls at the half-way mark. I’ll also probably inset the catches. It also won’t be ebonized—- suggestions for dark finishes for red oak?.
Considered insetting the corner protectors and countersinking screws to attach them, but that’s a lotof screws.
Still not happy w/ the foam insert I cut (and I’ve since replaced the black cloth w/ green felt)—- considering making one of papier mache and covering that w/ flocking—- other alternatives?
Any other suggestions for changes or improvements?