# Figure 8 Tapered Twin Starboxes

 Project by BertFlores58 posted 12-01-2012 07:21 AM 1145 views 1 time favorited 14 comments

This is a siamese twin boxes born from scrap without plans. The way it was made is very different from a usual project. You can view details of how it was made from my blog

The box is a composite of two pentabox cut on one side then joined them together with a division plate. The sides however were tapered to 5 degree to create more difficulty. This is a test for me to fully utilized compounding angles making a different miter joint which is instead of 72 deg (360/5) it becomes a little bit more (I don’t even know how much??) What I’ve done is set the angles to my miter saw on a 5 degree on the horizontal (this will be alternately done for every corner.) It is good that my miter has no error because I have to shift the setting to a plus and minus 5 degree from the 90 degree point. Likewise on the vertical setting the 72 degrees is set by 32 degrees (72/2) plus or minus depending on the sides to be cut. However my miter saw can only tilt to one side… This make another challenge… Therefore, I need to ensure that the sides of the board that I will be cutting should be parallel top and bottom. At anyrate… explaining this kind of mathematics will not benefit a woodworker…. It is much better to do it your own method how to cut a double angled miter or we call it compounded angles….

The features:

Star – made manually using a miter box… cutting pieces manually is more accurate and easier to control than using any other method. Though, I have to sharpen my backsaw to avoid tear out. The wood I used on the stars are red and white. Surprised, the white pieces reacted with the glue and turned out to gray killing the contrast that I wanted. Lucky, the end result give me at least a slight contrast. Also the star can be emphasized no matter what color is used… probably because STARS are shining bright and they are pointed.

Wooden Hinge – made from un-identified wood from old 2×3 framings of division walls from our office that were considered scraps. I recycled it to become a latch and hinge in this box. This was introduced by Paul and other LJ that I have already tried making in a different method… I used portable router and use a guid to make the groove. In this project, the covers were already cut to size and I made the groove of 1/8 for the rod to fit in. Then, I use another (fixed part to cater for the two pivots. I know that this will be limited to 90 degree opening which is enough already. Since there is no plan, I just make a rough estimate of the width by adding the thickness of the two covers and the division plate. Well, it was exactly what I wanted. A stainless 1/8 rod was used (again this is a scrap from an old toner catridges)

NARRA PARQUET – I can say that this has to be given the most important feature of all. This is a lot of work. I have plenty of previous floor parquet from Narra. (Up to now I have still too much) These are pieces of 2×4 inches whith a thickness of 3/8. Different blends of grains and colors, edges that are damage and many other problems. However, I have to use it… So I glued pieces together in two’s .. making the 4×4 inches to become the sides (consume 7 pcs of 4×4inches) and bottom board. Narra is so aromatic and very good wood however planing it will have tearout because of interlaced grains. I used sanding most of the time in finishing touches and planing only if it is straight grain. In this project you can see how tight the pieces are joined together. PVA (Evostic brand) makes it so strong.

The finish – The finish was 4 coats of dead flat lacquer. It shines a bit after several coats. My purpose in using the lacquer… it dries easily. TIP: Use an artist brush to avoid brush markings… otherwise use spray. It dries easily so I have to add more thinner from time to time checking the viscosity.

The bamboo dowel pins. – I used chopsticks from bamboo… as dowel pins. This project will not allow you to clamp neither to tape. The best was to use a screw for clamping however due to thin thickness of the board, I cannot afford to crack it…. then what helps me arethe bamboo pins… They are resillient that even there are mistake such as wrong hole, you can plug it then redrill again. It also absorb lot of glue and expand thereafter when hammered. The lower board in this case was just butt jointed but it is so strong after pinning it with bamboo just because the pins are inserted in inclined position.

Well, there it is the new challenge for me is done..
Thanks for Paul (Shipwright), Martyn (Britboxmaker), Sheila, and David (Patron) for the knowledge I learned. from them; and most specially Mike (Littlecope) who inspired me in using old tools and challenges for hinges and small items. Though Phil Edwards may not be active in LJ, I hope he is happy in seeing my projects made from the O1 steel blade that he gave me. I use the plane with that blade most of the time . Also Rand, for the spiral 1/8 bits he sent me…

For all LJs out there, there are no limits in any undertaking with woods. Just be careful and always take one step forward thinking of the outcome of what you are doing.

Till next project…
Have a nice weekend.

-- Bert