Make a simple, wood cutting board.

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Project by AJswoodshop posted 11-29-2012 01:21 AM 3167 views 2 times favorited 15 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Here’s a really basic cutting board made out of poplar, and red oak. All of the boards are 1 3/4’’ wide, and 3/4’’ thick. Make sure you line up your patterns correctly, and do a lot of sanding! I used a butcher block finish on this, which really makes the wood look really nice.

15 comments so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29878 posts in 2486 days

#1 posted 11-29-2012 01:24 AM

Looks good AJ. These things become addictive.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View  woodshaver Tony C   's profile

woodshaver Tony C

6177 posts in 3501 days

#2 posted 11-29-2012 01:34 AM

Looking good AJ! Chop Chop!! Mom should love having that! Or could make a great Christmas gift!

-- St Augustine FL, Experience is the sum of our mistakes!

View a1Jim's profile


117236 posts in 3725 days

#3 posted 11-29-2012 01:35 AM

Super looking board AJ

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View AJswoodshop's profile


1057 posts in 2424 days

#4 posted 11-29-2012 01:46 AM

Thanks for the nice comments guys! Your right woodshaver! Chop Chop!

View lab7654's profile


266 posts in 2395 days

#5 posted 11-29-2012 02:44 AM

Looks like a great build! I have yet to venture into a cutting board, but it’s on my to-do list. One suggestion though: if you use red oak for a cutting board, you should use a grain filler on it to fill in the pores, as they often harbor bacteria. I’m sure it won’t be much of a problem though, nice job again!

-- Tristin King -- When in doubt, sand it.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

21317 posts in 3253 days

#6 posted 11-29-2012 05:49 AM

Nice looking cutting board,AJ. Lab7654 is right on that red oak.It is open grain and traps bacteria – especially if cutting meat on it. Filling the grain will help eliminate that…...........Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View sedcokid's profile


2735 posts in 3746 days

#7 posted 11-29-2012 12:08 PM

This is a grand looking cutting board!!

Thanks for sharing

-- Chuck Emery, Michigan,

View AJswoodshop's profile


1057 posts in 2424 days

#8 posted 11-29-2012 03:13 PM

How do you fill the grain? And where can you get grain filler? Thanks for the nice comments!

View vakman's profile


301 posts in 2551 days

#9 posted 11-29-2012 03:28 PM

May not be necessary to fill the grain, because the end grain is not on a cutting surface. If it’s a concern, work some beeswax into the end grain and call it a day.

Good job on this, I’m planning on making one soon.

If you don’t already, I recommend picking up or making a cabinet scraper…you’ll save money one sandpaper in the long term, and get a better finish as well.

-- - Power is not revealed by striking hard or often, but by striking true. -

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2396 days

#10 posted 11-29-2012 05:43 PM

I’m not sure you would want to fill the grain on a cutting board. I’ve never looked into the food safe qualities of grain filler, but it may end up just washing off anyway. With that said, I would avoid using this for meat as red oak is pretty porous.

It looks really nice though! Congrats on your cutting board right of passage! They are very addicting. Consider making an end grain board next. You can use softer woods for end grain boards if getting hardwood is a challenge for you. In fact a company in Canada makes BEAUTIFUL (and VERY expensive) end grain boards out of Larch, which is actually softer than Douglas-fir. My parents have a few. They paid over 300.00 for one of them.


View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2396 days

#11 posted 11-29-2012 05:53 PM

In addition, it looks like you got a little burning when cutting the profile on the edges (which looks really nice). There is a way to avoid that, but it is a bit dangerous, so make sure you have the proper safety equipment (push blocks and feather boards)

Route the end grain sides first. When you route the end grain, use the “climb cut” method. As mentioned, this can be very dangerous so make sure you are comfortable enough with your router table and safety equipment. After you route the end grain, route the edge grain normally. You will get less burning, a smoother cut, and a lot less sanding.


View ChuckC's profile


843 posts in 3083 days

#12 posted 11-29-2012 08:06 PM

^^ the climb cut method works but I would first route most of the profile the standard way (against the bit). After that, back the fence up just a little so you only take a slight shave, and then execute a climb cut. Don’t do it all at once…

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2396 days

#13 posted 11-29-2012 08:13 PM

Good point chuck. I still always climb cut end grain to avoid tear out, but a steep profile like that would have been done in 3 passes.


View Grumpymike's profile


2310 posts in 2463 days

#14 posted 11-30-2012 12:09 AM

Hi AJ,
If the bacteria become a concern just use some clorox and water mixed never stronger than 1:1. (I use one cup clorox in two cups of water a 2:1 mix and keep in a spray bottle.)
Resteraunts are required to clean wooden chopping surfaces this way daily. I use this method at home after cutting meat or fowl and then I will topcoat with mineral oil every so often. (Mostly when the wife wants to show off the kitchen.)

-- Grumpy old guy, and lookin' good Doin' it. ... Surprise Az.

View AJswoodshop's profile


1057 posts in 2424 days

#15 posted 11-30-2012 10:01 PM

Thanks for all of the tips and nice comments! Do you think if you wash it before and after you use it would be okay?


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