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..I am removing all the content I can from LJ I desagree with the way its ran. You can see my work at http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/
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#1 posted 11-19-2012 01:03 AM
Looking good Bob, and just think in 2+ months you will also be officially train in its use!
I think a BLO finish would be nice.
PS (your pm never had your e-mail address on it?)
6279 posts in 1888 days
#2 posted 11-19-2012 02:01 AM
If I am qualified to grant such honor (dubious as it may be) then you are in.Congrats on your build and I’m really glad to hear that you are impressed with the cuts you can make.I have BLO on my Green Valley chevalet and Minwax Antique Oil on my Canadian cousin.
Can’t wait to see your first projects cut with the new chevalet.
-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/
2304 posts in 1517 days
#3 posted 11-19-2012 02:35 AM
Bob I am green with envy.
You did it! Well done.
Now you have the precision machine for doing the most delicate of cuts I cant wait to see the results.
-- Love thy neighbour as thyself
707 posts in 2920 days
#4 posted 11-19-2012 05:45 AM
Welcome to the club Bob…it looks like it turned out just fabulous. You are going to be amazed at the precision you can obtain with this machine. Congratulations on the build, and I can’t wait to see the projects you create!
-- Aim high. Ride easy. Trust God. Neale Donald Walsch
#5 posted 11-19-2012 06:05 AM
Thanks Matt & Paul First I need to figure out how to use it (build a packet and find temples). I don’t have any veneer’s to play around with just yet and the closest place I know of is about an hour and a half away. I still have some work to do on it…like making the clamps parallel, tune it up and put a knob under the seat which is adjustable in/out. OH and get another handle for the saw, the one someone turned for me split in half before I could use it.I wanted to ask how you get the seams tight when you cut out a pattern. And does using Hyde Glue do the best job for glue ups? I still have a lot of questions and each time I get an answer it brings up more questions so I am very glade I will be going to school.
exelectrician Thank you, I did do it thanks to all for the encouragement and guidance.
#6 posted 11-19-2012 02:00 PM
SandHill, PM sent on veneer info….
#7 posted 11-19-2012 02:02 PM
All those questions will be answered at ASFM better than we could explain here Bob. Concentrate on getting the feel of the saw at first. If you don’t have veneer practice on 1/8” plywood or thin MDF.
The seams will take care of themselves and are dealt with differently in different styles.Lots of glues are used by different marqueters but I like hide glue and when Patrick gets through with you so will you.
587 posts in 1580 days
#8 posted 11-19-2012 02:44 PM
I had to look up what this was.
Sure looks well made. Looking forward to see what you produce with it.
16037 posts in 2279 days
#9 posted 11-19-2012 05:07 PM
Now that is a great tool build~~~~
-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"
2605 posts in 1324 days
#10 posted 11-20-2012 12:47 AM
Bob, was your hardware a kit? The blade holders are as beautiful as the rest of the machine.DanK
-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com There are three types of people...those who are good at math and those who aren't.
#11 posted 11-20-2012 02:27 AM
I bought the saw metal parts and blades from Patrick Edwards because my shop is not fully set up and unpacked from our move yet. You can make the blade holders if you have a vice, hacksaw, taps & dies as well as the time to spend making them. Shipwright has a set of Sketchup drawings to follow and use as a guide as well as an excellent blog. He and Matt were a lot of help giving pointers a long the way. Its not hard to make, you just need to take your time and think along the way
32 posts in 1731 days
#12 posted 11-20-2012 03:24 PM
Good job. I note one thing. The horizontal and vertical adjustment arms are on the wrong side of the saw support. Normally the vertical adjustment is on the inboard side (the worker side) and the horizontal is on the outboard side. This is because, over time, the longer arm of the saw support tends to drop, and it is better to have the vertical adjustment on that side to compensate.
However, if it works, it works. Next time switch these two parts.
-- WPatrick, San Diego, http://www.WPatrickEdwards.blogspot.com
6704 posts in 1932 days
#13 posted 11-20-2012 05:04 PM
Congratulations, now you can fly with the eagles! Us chickens will be looking up!
-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher
#14 posted 11-21-2012 12:04 AM
Wpatrick somewhere along the line I got confused as to which was which I had it the other way first then changed it. Right now the Horizontal adjuster is on the inboard side (Horizontal to me meant adjustable on a horizontal plane) back and forth and Vertical up and down. My swan necks are kind of funky so I will be remaking them after I return from school I hope to do a better job on them next time but for now its dead on I cut about 5 key holes without any adjusting at all and they slide in and out from both directions, what are the chances of that happening again? Not much I think. :) Thanks everyone.
#15 posted 11-21-2012 12:42 AM
Like I said, “If it works, it works.” Good going.
Over time it may go out of adjustment and you may have to remake the swan neck elements to bring it back into alignment. The fact that it works now, without adjustment, indicates to me that your measurements for building it were excellent.
You should also add a diagonal brace to the saw support arm. Look at my chevalet on my blog:http://www.WPatrickEdwards.blogspot.comUse the search engine to find the recent post: “Chevalet anatomy lesson”
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