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Hello all,

I haven't posted in a while and wanted to show the pieces that I have been working on. I started to make a whole bunch of larger end grain blocks gearing up for the holidays. I really took my time on a couple of the designs. Im going for equal distribution of grain work and pattern work. Soon I am going to start implementing different hardware and router techniques for handles and more intricate wells and juice grooves. ANY IDEAS? Currently I don't use any templates but if there are a couple that are deemed a necessity for end grain blocks Id love to hear about them. Also Ive begun packaging my boards in canvass bags with toggles that I make myself. I think they add a nice finished touch to the boards. I might change them around though and make them drawstring tops instead almost like a sock for the boards. Thanks for checking out my work I hope you enjoy.
Regards
Zach

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Man those are some awesome cutting boards!!!!!
 

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9,309 Posts
some great work here zack

and the bags really add a nice pro touch
 

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479 Posts
Beautiful work. Your boards are always well done and well designed.
 

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Way cool boards ,so beautiful.
 

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Very nice boards, Zach. Can you give the timbers and size? Thanks for posting.
 

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Zach-

Terrific boards! Do the canvas bags keep the boards from "bleeding" mineral oil during transport and storage?
 

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the first two boards are made out of mahogany and maple. The third is cherry, Mahogany, Oak. Fourth is Black Walnut, Fifth is Mahogany and Oak and sixth is ,mahogany and maple. The sizes vary a little board by board but are generally 18×14 x 2. I chose to use canvass for that exact purpose. BUT to limit the amount of bleeding I have begun to make a "sealing bar" http://zlsboardworks.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3452364 that consists of more beeswax than mineral oil. It seems to work out great the bleeding has ultimately stopped. With this I think the next set of bags ill make will be made out of a much thinner lighter material (Muslin).
Thanks for the compliments
Regards Zach
 

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Works of art Zach
I would hesitate to sully them by actually using them for anything as pedestrian as cutting up food.
I have just made my first end-grain board, a cheese board, which I will be posting soon.
A couple of questions, if I may.
1. How do you "smooth" the end-grain after you have completed the glue-up?
2. How did you rout the drip channel?
Thanks
Max
 

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Very nice boards you have made. You were asking for design ideas. I like rounded corners on boards. I've done some square and rounded and the rounded ones are nice. Also, I'd hesitate using oak for cutting boards due to its open grain and potential to harbor nasty food bacteria in em.

I've made a few boards with the edges sculpted with a cove and wave router bit. Turned out very cool.

My favorite board is pic 6, very nice.
 

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Hi Zach,
Love the boards you have made, great designs. As a bread board - cheese board maker I have found that the majority of people who purchase these boards only use them for display in their kitchens and only use them as a cheeses board.(It seems a shame to use a knife on them)
I have been finishing my boards with a hard bunishing oil with the main ingredient being tung oil - what do you and others think.
This has been recommended from the woodworking guy I purchase most of my equipment from.
Also love you past projects.
Regards,
Cundy56
 

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They're all beautiful : ) Very nice details and finishes.
 

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wow, these are very nice.
 

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Thanks guys. It would appear that this problem is, so far, limited to one out of the five boards I have made. Despite weather conditions ranging from 13-28 degrees C and up and down from humidity in the 90s there appears to have been no discernible wood movement in my four other boards. All joints are tight and there is no cracking, so I think I will continue with this concept
 
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