|Project by BertFlores58||posted 413 days ago||1786 views||4 times favorited||26 comments|
A lot of challenges been overcome in this work. From the design which originated from cubix of 3 rhombus and the star posibilities inset with the 3 rhombus becoming a square. The stars points are cut using handsaw and miter box with 30 deg angle creating 90 degree by adding a 60 degree rhombus. The result was amazing. The difficulty was the size of the pieces. The sides of the rhombus is only 3/4 inch or 19 mm. Also, there is no way of clamping them because they are sliding to each other. The magic of masking tape made it possible and the use of my mounting flat surface which is a none stick with the wood glue…. a polished granite slab. Here are some of the important points to share with you:
THE MITER LID.
Luckily, there is a green colored wood (came from a Norwegian crate), Philippine ebony (Kamagong), an old picture frame (the white star petal), the Narra (I have a lot of narra old floor parquets). Brown pieces were included in the last row because it is so strong… probably an iron wood. A bonding of white veener seals the lips. I am really happy on the woods I used here… GOOD QUALITY LIKEWISE PERKS UP THE CONTRASTING EFFECT MAKING IT SO VIVID THAT YOU CAN SEE ANY SLIGHT ERROR OR MISPOSITION. That is were the excitement of parquetry. You try to make it perfect but in the end, you just adjust to fit the gap.
If you stare for a long time, there will be other illusions that you can imagine. Looking at the ends there are two ideal 3 pointed stars the other may look like a petal. Notice that the black and white petals meet in the corner edge making it so impossible to cut a 15 degree angle that will not break. If not for Martyn who encourage me to use the miter jointing of a box edges, the this will not be a reality. Click me for the blog in making the miter my way.
I learned a lesson on this one. I know that the top was not perfect square (one corner is meeting on the acute part of 90 degree making the sides a bit longer. I still continue to do the bevel cut of the side alligned to the incorrect corner. I should have adjusted the bevel cut at right angle with the top line. Hard to explain but you can see in the picture below that the lid is now tapering out to the opening.
This make more challenging to me whether I can also make adjustment on the base.
THE BASE BOX
I use a Narra parquet to make the base or bottom board. A 3/8 thick board made from several pieces. This has also a design….
I would be honest that today I remember MEGAN box was the thinnest box I made. Just read the story about that box. May Megan be always remembered as we do.
Today I used the same thickness (3 mm) of EBONY (Kamagong) but it is not totally black. It is blended with pinkish color. I route a slot on the base to add strength. A cross divider also was added also inlayed (dado) to the base. The same mitering method was used as for side joints. Adjusted one end so that it will fit with the lid (Remember that one corner is not at right angle making it a taper. That makes it difficult using a file and fit the lid several times. I want it to be loose a bit so there will be no obstruction. It was also a good help that the design was a rectangular shape… eliminates the mistake of slipping the lid with two choices only.
Notice that the base is covered with white veneer. There was one slot that was done oversized and I have to hide the error… Trade secrets revaled… I am just showing you the proper way of correcting errors.
THE TOP TRAY
This is made from MOLAVE (A Philippine wood that is so strong and very slippery). It is 4 mm thick and done in a miter box. There is a slight change in construction. I cut to size the 4 sides and the bottom board. Glue them together then sand to even the thickness (This is the most important part in making the the miter joint.) This time I did not follow the trapezoidal shape of the box but just get the smallest side and from there I made a right angled box. Though I have to do a handle but that would be later.
Another good point here is the gluing. Molave has oil that if mixed with glue will discolor to yellow. I have to avoid smearing the glue (PVA) as it will look very ugly to have that color on the top tray which will be the first expression when you open up the box. I used a masking tape to cover those portion exposed for glue smear.
And the tape that was taken out show a lot of smear. Please note that before bending the tape should be already in place. This will lessen cleaning too.
And the result is a beautiful tray of 1×3 x 4 beautiful tray made from an exotic tiger molave…. I like it.
Overall, I enjoy doing this box. If ever there will a second time… It will be a different. THIS WILL BE UNIQUE ON ITS TAPERING LID.
HOPE YOU ENJOY READING THE LONGEST EXPLANATION SO FAR IN A PROJECT. THANKS FOR VIEWING. FOR ANY INQUIRY, FEEL FREE TO OPEN UP. ALSO, I AM OPEN FOR ANY CRITICISM AS IT IS A WAY OF IMPROVING MYSELF.