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Router table and accessories

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Project by AJswoodshop posted 10-31-2012 06:35 PM 2023 views 1 time favorited 14 comments Add to Favorites Watch

When I first decided to make a router table my plan was to have drawers and lots of storage. But I decided to make a simple stand. It’s made out of 3/4’’ plywood and 2+4’s, I also didn’t want to buy a insert plate, so I made mine out of 1/4’’ polycarbonate. I was afraid that 1/4’’ wouldn’t be thick enough, but if I used 1/2’’ then I couldn’t raise the router bit all the way up. My router table is just a hair over 35’’ tall, which is the perfect height for me. The fence is made out of 3/4’’ plywood, and I cut out some 3/4’’ plywood triangles to keep the fence square. The top of my table is 25 3/4’’ wide, by 32 1/4’’ long which provides a pretty good sized table. I was afraid that the top wasn’t thick enough, but I put several screws and it is working great. I made a few pushsticks and router bit trays with the leftover wood I had, and I made some measuring gauges which are really handy to have. (If you want to see the measuring gauges, go to my project list and check them out! I have the HF 2hp fixed based router in the table, it works out great! I’m so happy I made a router table and I wish I would of done it a long time ago!

Thanks for reading! I’ll post some more pictures tomorrow.

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop





14 comments so far

View Jason™'s profile

Jason™

85 posts in 794 days


#1 posted 10-31-2012 06:51 PM

Nice work bud I too have just recently made my own very small router table for an old craftsman router my grandpa gave me to use. I found this thing to be very awkward to use handheld as well as creating a huge mess in my small basement style shop. I thought why not try and make a simple stand to mount this thing in and see how it performs and if it does well then I can go from there!! No need to buy one because they look quite simple enough to make.

Have yet to actually use it yet due to still working on the fence. Getting the dust chute set up and trying to figure out a way to have the fence slide back and forth on this very small piece of melamine I used approx. 12 ¾” x 17” yes way too small now that I can see this together with the router. Instead of just clamping the fence in place which will probably work out just fine. Having the fence on im lacking the space needed to really make this useful in the future. Like I said though if it works good enough I will definetely make a better one later on down the road.

Your pics are looking way better with each post you do. Larger than some of the earlier ones, and from what I can see your way ahead of me in woodworking and I have 15 or so years on you….lol
Slow down so I can catch up!!
Great work and look forward to the update on this build.

JN1C3™

-- Im all night long!! all night .. all night .. ALL NIGHT LONG

View AJswoodshop's profile

AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 943 days


#2 posted 10-31-2012 07:02 PM

Thanks Jason for the nice comment! Good to hear that you got a router table, they are fun to use!

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2833 posts in 915 days


#3 posted 10-31-2012 07:38 PM

Nice job! I have a couple observations that maybe you could incorporate for future upgrades (I don’t know about you, but I am always improving my jigs and fixtures)

1. I don’t see a power switch anywhere. That’s a pretty good sized table, which is good, however you have quite a reach to get to that switch if something gets away from you.

2 – I’m not sure the 1/4” polycarbonite is a good idea. I have worked with it a bit, and it tends to sag or get bouncy when weighted down (like with a router). I can’t tell how big the base actually is, but if it is the same size as a standard router table insert, I would consider using a more stable material – like simply using some 3/4” plywood or melamine. Not only can the flexing affect your cuts, it could be dangerous if the bit bounces up and down.

3 – Consider some lateral stretchers on the legs, or cover all 4 sides with some hardboard. That will keep it from racking and if you cover all 4 sides it will keep the dust contained a bit. Just be sure one section is hinged for clean out and router access.

4 – Featherboards make your work a lot safer, and are 100% necessary for some router table operations. It would be a good idea to get some T-Track (you can find some really inexpensive stuff on amazon) for the fence and the table. You can make your own featherboards, or pick some up. They are pretty cheap. In addition a miter gauge is very handy when routing the shorter end grain side of boards

Edit: It may be how the fence is positioned in the pic, but it looks the the polycarbonate is already flexing quite a bit. You can see how your fence is level with the plywood top, but there is a noticeable sag when it gets over the router and router bit.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112170 posts in 2244 days


#4 posted 10-31-2012 07:46 PM

Looks like it will do the job,that should be very handy to have. Good job AJ

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View AJswoodshop's profile

AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 943 days


#5 posted 10-31-2012 08:39 PM

Lumberjoe,

Thanks for the great tips! I am purchasing a switch for it when I get the money, for now I just reach under the table and turn it on. The 1/4’’ polycarbonite does not sag, the fence I will fix soon, I’m just really busy right know and wanted to get this done so I could work on some christmas projects. Thanks for the tips!

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

View Gshepherd's profile

Gshepherd

1472 posts in 868 days


#6 posted 10-31-2012 09:53 PM

AJ, having seen all of your projets and knowing your pretty darn finiky, which is good, next time make a template for your screw placements….. It is all in the details….. As mentioned before get some runners on the bottom so it does not rack on you and lossen up…. Worse yet buckle when your routing…... Keep up the good work…..

-- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11559 posts in 1772 days


#7 posted 10-31-2012 11:14 PM

Nice project , AJ. You’ll find you use it a lot. I had made my old insert for my last router table out of 3/8” Lexan ( polycarbonate) and it was fine for a lot of year. I don’t think you’ll be using any oil around it but if you do, be careful of any chlorinated oil or solvents touching the polycarbonate, it will make it very brittle and lead to cracking. We had a huge problem with that where I used to work. Chlorinated oil was getting on the polycarbonate glides and they were breaking all over the place!!

Is your insert screwed down? I bought a Woodpecker Quicklift and I had to put 4 screws to hold it down for 2 reasons- Pulling up the router to change bits and the vibration with it loose let sawdust creep under it and left it too high some times.

Glad to see you finally made a router table!!!!!!!!!!!!!............Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7755 posts in 2719 days


#8 posted 10-31-2012 11:59 PM

Very good!

I think routing with a Router Table is the preferred way to route…
... you can concentrate more on the ‘cut’ instead of tilting router, etc.
... seems to be a whole lot SAFER too.

You will have fun with that… and you will start making notes on how to refine it…

Enjoy!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View AJswoodshop's profile

AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 943 days


#9 posted 11-01-2012 01:06 AM

Thanks for the nice comments guys!

Jim,
When I dropped my insert plate into the hole I cut out, one corner wasn’t flush. I put one screw two make it level. I think the insert won’t crack, I made several cuts today and it’s working great! The thing about my router, it has a locking lever that unlocks the router, so you can just pull the router out and change bits.

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

View Billy E's profile

Billy E

81 posts in 747 days


#10 posted 11-01-2012 12:30 PM

Cool. I’d like to see a picture of how you mounted the fence to the table if you’re taking more pictures. Looks good. I’ve got to make a table for a new thickness planer next…

-- Billy, Florence SC

View 12strings's profile

12strings

411 posts in 1051 days


#11 posted 11-01-2012 04:16 PM

I bought a cheap power strip and attached to to my shop-made router table…no wiring necessary. I plug in my shopvac to the same strip so that when the router comes on, so does the vacuum.

-- I'm strictly hand-tool only...unless the power tool is faster and easier!

View Jim55's profile

Jim55

131 posts in 733 days


#12 posted 11-01-2012 07:06 PM

Looks like a good, workman like table. A router table is in my near future too.

I have a crappy HF table for now and it has the fixed speed router. What I did was get a variable speed switch to put on it. It works like a charm!

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7755 posts in 2719 days


#13 posted 11-01-2012 10:27 PM

View BigAl98's profile

BigAl98

95 posts in 1706 days


#14 posted 11-04-2012 04:37 AM

I’m with GShepherd on the ‘add runners on the legs’. That’ll make a huge difference on the stability of the table, even with the ten screws on each corner. Plus when your routing you can put your foot on the runner to add extra ‘stay put’ on the table from moving (or use sand bags)

Al

-- Al,New Jersey -To thine own self be true

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