|Project by lumberjoe||posted 669 days ago||4587 views||26 times favorited||18 comments|
This took a few tries to work as I wanted it to. I make a decent amount of cutting boards and often cut thin bands for splines or to hide plywood edges and end grain. I’m not super comfortable working with the fence less than an inch from the blade. These are commercially available, however they are also fun to make. This went through a few iterations. Cliffs notes at the bottom.
The final product:
It’s about 10” long, 4/4 red oak
Two 1/4” slots cut to attach to miter gauge (got to buy another whiteside router bit sinice my old cheap MCLS 1/4 bit kissed concrete the day before I made this)
I used an old router bit bearing in the end as a guide.
It rides in a miter slot runner for an old featherboard I replaced with a MagSwitch
It works awesome. I set it for a 1/2” rip and cut some slices off of some scrap ash about 3 feet long. It took a tad bit of trial and error to get the exact setting. Measuring blade kerf is not an exact science. I got dead on 1/2” on the dial calipers on my 3rd attempt. I ripped 6 strips. All were dead on 1/2”. I was very pleased and now have a lot of beautiful ash finish/stain stirrers.
The lessons learned
Number 1 – If you don’t use a bearing in the end, you are going to have a bad time
The first round was straight 45 degree angle. It worked, but it would deflect almost every time. A small flat spot worked much better than a point on the end, but I still got some deflection. A bearing is perfect. For those wondering, the inside diamater of this bearing matches a #10 wood screw exactly. I hollowed out a recess with a chisel then marked the center of the bearing. I drilled a pilot hole and scewed the bearing down. The screw has no threads toward the end, but just enough threads to bite into the bottom. Once through I sawed off the excess screw and filed/sanded it flush. Sorry fror the crappy pic, My camera saw my reflection in the cast iron and got a little awestruck:
Number 2 – One slot is a bad idea
Even with the bearing, held down in the center only, I could get the jig to move if I wanted it to. Two slots removes the piviot point fulcrum and locks it in place. It makes alignment a little tricky, however I’ve found with the bearing in the end, it doesn’t need to be perfectly 90 degrees to the workpiece. Bearings are round and spin, and you have a tiny little point of contact.
So for those of you that don’t like to read long posts, here are the cliffs notes:
1 – Two slots are better than one
2 – Use a guide bearing from an old router bit in the tip
3 – A #10 woodscrew fits right through the bearing with almost no play