|Project by Boxguy||posted 09-28-2012 at 09:51 PM||3308 views||42 times favorited||44 comments|
Pictured: a jewelry box made from one solid piece of redwood burl. It is 12 1/2 inches tall, and an equilateral triangle with 8 1/2 inches on each of three sides. The finish is 4 coats of wipe-on poly applied with a one inch foam brush and carefully sanded with 800 grit paper after each coat. Then finished with Johnson’s Paste Wax applied with steel wool. The bark inclusions were filled with black epoxy and ground up alabaster then sanded.
Story: This box is a true collaboration. Most of the ideas were Greer’s a few were mine. We talked through the problems and concepts and methods of working as we went. Greer did almost all of the actual cutting in my shop and all of the sanding and finishing at his home. Making boxes with friends can teach you more than just woodworking. Working with Greer taught me that having buddies build boxes in my shop adds to the fun and is a great way to share learning.
Greer came across this wonderful burl in the course of his job as a veneer expert. It is a “core” left over after the veneer has been turned off the outside. There was a large bark inclusion in one side, and a crack or check in another area. Those flaws led us to the triangular shape as a way of salvaging the sound wood in the piece.
That shape in turn led us to the idea of spinning the sliced-up piece to get to the jewelry storage area. On a romantic note, Greer gave this jewelry box to the love of his life with an engagement ring inside. She accepted, and they are now a very happily married couple.
Construction Notes: You need a very definate sequence of steps in making this. It works a lot like making a band saw box.
1. Cut the three sides using a plywood pattern screwed onto each of the two ends. The plywood slides along on an extended bandsaw table clamped to the regular table.
2. Drill the long rod hole NOW almost the entire length of the piece so when you re-assemble the wood everything will line up perfectly. Stop a little short of drilling through the top of the box.
3. Slice off the top and bottom.
4. Slice off the back.
5. With the triangular “drawer” section still in one piece, round off the pivoting corner of the triangle.
6. Slice your “drawer” sections into drawers.
7. Use a Fostner bit to drill out the drawer storage section.
8. Insert a tight-fitting metal rod threaded at each end and draw up the drawers tightly with nuts before sanding anything.
9. We used a wide nylon washer between each drawer and tightened the nuts on each end of the rod pretty tightly, and it works very, very smoothly as the drawers glide and turn in and out.
10. Trim one of the end drawers a bit thinner to let the spacer-washers and fit-ups work out with the length of the back board.
11. We used screws in the bottom so we could take it apart and fit it together as we worked out the spacers and the top and bottom.
Thanks: to everyone who takes time to look at this. A special thanks to all who take time to make comments or offer advice. As always keep boxing and keep posting.
P. S. Greer asked me to thank all of you for your support and comments.
-- Big Al in IN