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Spalted Maple Rice Bowl with Ebony Tipped Bubinga Chopsticks

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Project by Eric M. Saperstein posted 680 days ago 1016 views 6 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is a one-of-a-kind live edge spalted maple rice bowl with hand made bubinga chopsticks. The bowl blank is salvaged firewood. The sticks rest on the edge of the bowl and penetrate through for a convenient storage and display. The bowl is sealed natural in West Systems epoxy and is completely functional and sanitary!

Yes – the chopsticks rest atop and penetrate through the walls of the bowl. A unique way to display the chopsticks with the bowl. A set of these would be cool on display!

The epoxy really soaks in deep if you thin it, just let it soak and roll it around on the inside and keep putting coats on the outside. You’ll find it can go in 1/4” – 1/2” or more in soft/punky wood. With walls of the bowl less than 1/2” it’s likely the epoxy penetrated almost 100%.

(We’ll get some pictures up of bowls in use soon!)

This piece is by Michael Pietras – independent artist who just seems to hang around our shop a lot and he has a habit of creating unique items. More turnings are to come – we just upgraded our lathe with a new OneWay chuck system, and we’re picking up a bowl coring rig shortly.

-- Eric M. Saperstein, Master Craftsman www.artisansofthevalley.com





8 comments so far

View Drew224's profile

Drew224

25 posts in 919 days


#1 posted 680 days ago

WOW, just WOW…
Yet I do have a question.
How does one thin epoxy?

-- "...Be sure to read, Understand & follow the manufactures safety rules... And there is never more importaint rule than wearing safety glasses."

View Eric M. Saperstein's profile

Eric M. Saperstein

740 posts in 1844 days


#2 posted 680 days ago

Hmmm should we reveal that secret? Well … you may see it on an upcoming issue of West Systems “Epoxyworks” soon so … why not!

Cut the normal ratio for West Systems (use their pump system it’s easiest) ... pump it into a measured container so you know your volume. Mix in up to 10% that volume of Acetone. It will thin out significantly with just that small addition.

Once thing it will soak in very deep – it becomes penetrating in nature. You’ll have to soak in coats, roll around in a bowel or just keep painting on till it builds above the surface. Then even it down – sand it until it’s almost bare wood again if you want to build up an epoxy finish go from there.

If you want to switch to another finish, now is the time. Waterlox dries over West Systems – makes a unique barrier of epoxy with then an oil finish look.

Thanks!

-- Eric M. Saperstein, Master Craftsman www.artisansofthevalley.com

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

14821 posts in 1785 days


#3 posted 680 days ago

Nicw job love the color!

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4744 posts in 1173 days


#4 posted 680 days ago

That’s awesome.

View deon's profile

deon

2150 posts in 1622 days


#5 posted 679 days ago

Great work!

-- Dreaming patterns

View Drew224's profile

Drew224

25 posts in 919 days


#6 posted 679 days ago

Thank you Eric! I been trying to think of a way that was “food safe when cured” and be able to deal with alcohol too. My only resort was to be putting the vessels in a vat of melted bees wax with mineral oil. and even then I don’t think that would last all that long

Again Thank You

-- "...Be sure to read, Understand & follow the manufactures safety rules... And there is never more importaint rule than wearing safety glasses."

View Drew224's profile

Drew224

25 posts in 919 days


#7 posted 677 days ago

One more Question Eric.
How does the Acetone effect the pot life?

-- "...Be sure to read, Understand & follow the manufactures safety rules... And there is never more importaint rule than wearing safety glasses."

View Eric M. Saperstein's profile

Eric M. Saperstein

740 posts in 1844 days


#8 posted 677 days ago

Thanks for the feedback!

- Bee’s wax, although edible itself and it does actually have sanitary characteristics it never cures and it washes off with well, anything.

Waterlox – once cured is food safe. Even in liquid form a shot glass of it will probably make you sick, you may reject it, but it won’t kill you. You can go strait Waterlox but this won’t help you when you’re dealing with a punky or beetle holes or substantial cracks. This is where epoxy comes into play.

Now I wouldn’t drink either part or the liquid state of a two part epoxy – I can’t imagine that would go well … but once it’s cured it is generally inert. However – this gets complex … there are officially food grade coatings and epoxies. If you lean hardener mix West Systems its not certified but people seem to like it for portable water tank lining.

For low contact situations – salad bowls, maki boards, etc … really there’s no long term solvent contact. Nothing is going to sit and absorb any chemicals. Make sure it’s cured for a couple weeks preferably at a warm temperature to ensure the reaction is complete. Then you should be good.

http://www.epoxyworks.com/18/pdf/tanks.pdf – some details on portable water tanks w/ epoxy.

Funny thing is try a shot glass of some of the “water based” environmentally safe finishes and you may end up in the emergency room. It’s also not generally food safe!

Acetone doesn’t seem to change the cure, and it evaporates fast. It allows the epoxy to soak in deep then it gets out of the way. Don’t overdose, you don’t need much!

We have some discussions pending for some articles on all this – waiting for some feedback from the chemists involved and we’ll see what we get for an official review.

-- Eric M. Saperstein, Master Craftsman www.artisansofthevalley.com

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