| Project by Mark A. DeCou | posted 172 days ago | 555 views | 0 times favorited | 9 comments | ![]() |
The DeCou (dee-coo) Rounding Jack
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Update for 6-16-2008: This Rounding Jack Serial Number #2008-02 has been Sold and is headed to Suffolk, VA USA.
Customer Testimony Printed with Permission:
Hey Mark,
“I just received the rounding jack and tolliker and wanted to say thanks for getting them off to me so fast. I used the rounding jack earlier this evening and did not quite get it perfect the first time. This was my fault due to inexperience with the tool. I did not keep the jack tight enough against the hat as I made the second turn. The brim did come out perfect, after a little sanding was done to correct my error. I’m sure, now that I’ve been through it once, the next one that I trim will be perfect. I have to say that the tools look just as good in person as they did in the photos.”
“Thanks again, so much. I don’t think I’ll ever be able to sell these tools. Besides being useful, they are simply too beautiful to part with.”
Bruce
Here is Stoney's posting in The Fedora Lounge Forum
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The current version that I am building and selling will cut brims from 1-1/4” up to 8.0” in size.
Look here for some examples of the final design:
- Maple Rounding Jack
- Brainpan Hat Shop Rounding Jack
- Steve Delk's Adventurebilt Rounding Jack
- Marc Kitter's Adventurebilt Rounding Jack
If you are interested in a Rounding Jack, or other hatmaking tool, please email me at:
mark@decoustudio.com
www.decoustudio.com
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Original Project Story:
Recently, after posting Tollikers and Puller Downers here on Lumberjocks, I was asked by a hatmaker whether I would make an up-to-date version of an old antique tool called the ”Rounding Jack,” which is used to cut the brim of a hat, such as a Fedora style, or Western Style Hat, to the proper width.
I looked at several examples of old Rounding Jacks, and figured out what didn’t work in their design after 100 years of shop use, and also what features one had over the other.
I have a mechanical engineering degree, and so I approach projects, like this one, from a practical engineering standpoint. Couple that training with a lifetime of woodworking, and I can build tools like this. When I say “lifetime” of woodworking, I’m not blowing smoke…...my dad was a woodshop teacher and is still a master woodworker, and so I have had a workbench and woodworking tools for as long as I remember, literally. Some folks say “lifetime” and don’t really mean it….....I mean it. (Thanks Dad!)
The key problems I discovered with the antique examples were:
1) The wood was too soft of a species, and wouldn’t hold up to the wear it gets in use over the years
2) The components made of wood were too narrow, and thin, and broke easily from normal use.
3) The old blades that fit them were obsolete and difficult to find, or sharpen
4) The old blades run up and down vertically, which does not offer a nice slicing motion of the felt
5) The cutting capacity was too short, and needed to have been built for bigger brims
6) The cutting path should be counterclockwise for a right handed maker
7) The blade needed to adjust in and out easily
8) The blade needed a plate guard under it so that the table top wasn’t scored while cutting the brim, and the brim could be “held” in place as the blade cut the material.
and some others problems I found, but you get the gist of what I was after.
I tried to solve all of the problems in my design, using Walnut, but other woods such as Birch, or Maple, could just as easily be used.
I can’t seem to be happy with making something “practical-but-ugly”, so I also tried to make the proportions pleasing, and the over all appearance consistent with what you would expect from a solo-artisan’s shop, where each item is still hand crafted.
So, if you are a hat tool collector, or a hat maker, and would like to know more about purchasing a Rounding Jack from me, please send me an email for more information.
please email me at:
mark@decoustudio.com
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Here is a photo showing the Prototype model (left) and the Production Model (right).
Features
The DeCou Rounding Jack includes an adjustable brass crown curve, utility knife blade, angled cutting, large cutting capacity, wide posture to allow smooth and flat operation, mortise and tenon joinery reinforced with screws, hardwood (walnut in this case) and a heavy duty brass plate on the bottom.
If you do not want the adjustable crown curve, I can save you some money by not charging you for that work. Send me an email for the complete pricing breakdown with options.

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Customer Ordering NOTE:
To keep the Pricing down on these tools, I used a small metal ruler for the sizing guage. Some have told me that they liked the look of the hand carved sizing guage like I did on the original prototype design.
So, if you are ordering a Rounding Jack from me, and you really want the look of the hand carved guage, just let me know and I can do that for you.
Note: In my mind, tools should be as beautiful as they are functional. To that end, each tool receives an inlayed abalone dot as a “signature.” I can also use engraved brass plates, inlayed scrimshaw artwork, or other details that tool collectors will like.

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Bottom Plate Guard:
I use a strong brass plate 0.032” in thickness, that covers the blade in all of it’s possible settings. The brass guard fits under the hat brim while cutting, and you push down on the cutter onto your work table as you cut around the hat.

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Blade Type & Direction of Cut:
I have used a very inexpensive, but high quality “Stanely” (made in the USA) utility knife blade for the working part of this Rounding Jack. These blades are available in any store. If you are ordering a Rounding Jack, and you have a different type of blade that you prefer to use, that is fine, just tell me, and I can redesign your cutter for your needs.
Also, this photo shows a COUNTERCLOCKWISE cutting path. If you are a CLOCKWISE hatter, then just let me know and I can make your Rounding Jack to fit your needs.

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For a Guage Pointer, I have used a brass point that is calibrated to the guage ruler. After you use this a few times, you will gain the confidence to never have to use a tape measure again. Just loosen the thumb screws, slide the apparatus to your cut size, and retighten the thumb screws. And then make a hat. It’s that simple.
Still, if your are the type of person that wears a belt and suspenders, you can always measure the blade opening with a tape measure if you are just in that habit.

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Artisan Hat Tools by Mark DeCou Studio
(Do you want to see More? Just follow these links):
- “Coming Soon”, Progress Photos posted here
- “Custom Laser Engraved Rounding Jack for Charlie @ Gladdhatter”: coming soon, please check back
- Rounding Jack, Maple Wood on a Walnut Bench-Top Display Stand
- Custom Rounding Jack w/ Scrimshaw for the Brainpan Hat Shop in Sumner, WA
- Custom Rounding Jack w/ Scrimshaw for Steve Delk's Adventurebilt Hat Co.
- Custom Rounding Jack w/ Scrimshaw for Marc Kitter's Adventurebilt Hat Co.
- Custom Rounding Jack w/ Scrimshaw for Pyrate Trading Co.
- Custom Rounding Jack w/ Scrimshaw for the Infamous Hatman Jack at Wichita Hat Works
- Custom Rounding Jack Laser Engraved for the Inaaya Hat Co.
- Custom Rounding Jack Laser Engraved for The Penman Hat Co.
- Prototype #2 Rounding Jack
- Prototype #1 Rounding Jack
- Foot Tolliker: Elk Antler & Birch Wood, on a Display Stand
- Foot Tolliker: Walnut Wood, on a Display Stand
- Foot Tollikers: Three in White Birch Wood
- Foot Tollikers: Walnut Wood Set of Four
- Foot Tollikers, Birch Wood Double Set, on Display Stand
- Wooden Hinge-Shackle Curling Tool for the Homburg Hat
- Wooden Curling Shackles, Various Sizes
- Wooden Groove Tolliker
- “Coming Soon”, please check back.
My Website with other woodworking, including furniture, walking canes, scrimshaw artwork, custom knives, and other misc. items
(Note:This project story, project design, photos, text, spelling, everything I can possibly list is copyrighted in 2008 by the Author, M.A.DeCou. If you want to use any part of this posting or the photos, for any Feeds, or a book, or another website, or for any reason whatsoever, even ones that I could not have dreamed about you doing before you did it, you must ask for permission first. Please)
-- Mark DeCou - Kansas Flint Hill's Artisan
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9 comments so far
Roger Strautman
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501 posts in 620 days
posted 172 days ago
OK Mark, you out did yourself this time! This is a very well thought thru piece both cosmetic and functional. My hats off to you. WELL DONE!!!
-- " All Things At First Appear Difficult"
Karson
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12910 posts in 886 days
posted 172 days ago
Roger that’s a cheap shop. Your hats off to him.
Mark, great job. If I ever join the hobby of the month club again. I’ll look you up.
-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com
DAN
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3218 posts in 469 days
posted 172 days ago
great tool ! hope you found a niche. shipping should be very reasonable for the buyer.
-- ..... art for lifes sake ... danwalters@lumberjocks.com
Mark A. DeCou
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1312 posts in 891 days
posted 172 days ago
Niche Dan? Don’t you think everyone would want one? I could make display stands like I do on my knives and powder horns for mantle presentation. Ha.
Thanks also Karson and Roger, you are a constant encouragement to me, I appreciate you very much
M
-- Mark DeCou - Kansas Flint Hill's Artisan
TomK
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380 posts in 360 days
posted 171 days ago
I can see how this works well for round brims, but how about oval or elliptical brims? If it just indexes off the crown, how can you vary the brim proportions? Anyway, the construction looks great. Is there a future for a custom brassiere tool?
-- North Texas
Mark A. DeCou
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1312 posts in 891 days
posted 171 days ago
Good thoughts TomK. The cutting of the brim is done by following the crown around, keeping the cutter pushed against the crown. The crown is an oval of various sizes from about 6-1/2 up to 8-1/4 depending on the client’s head size and shape, and then the brim is trimmed following the oval of the crown. Since the crown is an oval, or elliptical, the cutter cuts an oval also. Some hatters like to pull the tool in a clockwise rotation, while others like to push in a counter-clockwise rotation. The cutting head will be rotated either direction for the preference of the operator. If I can get some photos of how this is actually accomplished by a hatter, I’ll go back and post them.
thanks for your question,
M
-- Mark DeCou - Kansas Flint Hill's Artisan
fedora
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2 posts in 159 days
posted 159 days ago
I own vintage rounding jacks, and I must say this one here is a piece of art. Using the readily available blade is a stroke of genius. Once I get this baby in, I will retire my vintage ones, and just look at them as antiques should be treated. Thanks for providing this to us hatters, and the price is simply unreal. These babies go for 750.00 from others, and they are no where as attractive as what you have come up with Mark! I have already told a few guys about these, so expect more orders!!! These are simply beautiful. Thanks. Fedora(hatmaker for Harrison in the new soon to be released film) Expect an order from my partner Marc, from Germany, the other half of the hatmaking team for the new Indy film.
Bill
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2512 posts in 647 days
posted 159 days ago
Nice work Mark. I did not know there was so much work in making hats. You did an excellent job on these tools.
-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com
Mark A. DeCou
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1312 posts in 891 days
posted 159 days ago
Thanks Steve and Bill.
Steve, you having been awarded the hatwork on the Fedoras for the new Indiana Jones Film is such an honor for you. I do appreciate being loosely tied to that by getting you a Rounding Jack.
I hope the antique cutters will see the “new kid” on the block as a respite and reward for the many years of faithful service they have provided.
(P.S., I do realize that old rounding jacks are inanimate objects without thought, or personalities, but it was a fun concept to think about).
Many blessings for your business, and for the success of brim “Hats Making a Comeback” in our culture.
If you wanted to provide some photos of the way a Rounding Jack is actually used in your hat shop, I would welcome the chance to share the space with you on that, or just link your blog on how it is done. I’ve gotten quite a few emails from folks asking how it is done, and wanting more photos of the process. What you feel you can share, I’ll be glad to help how I can.
Thanks,
M
-- Mark DeCou - Kansas Flint Hill's Artisan