| Project by Woodshopfreak | posted 140 days ago | 504 views | 2 times favorited | 12 comments |  |
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Well, after about a week of thinking, and about three tries at making a zero clearance throat plate, I finally got one to work. See one of the problems with all bench top, and contractor table saws are that the throat plate is always just a little piece of sheet metal that always is impossible to make a zero clearance throat plate for because of a few reasons:
1. The wood of the plate would have to be really thin, which is always a pain in the buttocks
2. The screws that attach the metal throat plate are a countersunk screw and the thin wood has nothing for the screw to grab onto.
3. It’s hard to get it stabilized when it is so little.
So to fix all of these problems I realized that my table saw had these little wholes for a small rubber spacer that would keep the metal throat plate from vibrating and the screw that holds the plate down goes in between the spacer. After realizing this I thought that I could put dowels into the holes which would make the throat plate stay in place and it would give me the extra material for a countersunk hole. It took me about two hours on and off, because I had to make all the parts then when I put it together and glued it I realized that the dowels were in the wrong place and had to redo them about 3 times. They also would crack off, so I made the dowels a bit smaller so that they would just slip in and wouldn’t be so had to get out. Overall I think this was a great addition to my table saw and anyone with a contractor style saw should make one to get better cutting results. Thanks, Tyler.
-- Tyler, Illinois
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12 comments so far
thetimberkid
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1512 posts in 154 days
posted 139 days ago
Great job! I should make myself one of those,
Thanks for the post
Callum
-- Look great, get your TTK merchandise now! http://www.printfection.com/thetimberkid/ Check out my site http://thetimberkid.blogspot.com/
Scott Bryan
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8577 posts in 273 days
posted 139 days ago
Tyler,
You did a good job with this. These are invaluable safety devices that improve your saw’s operations.
Thanks for the post.
-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.
verne
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3 posts in 206 days
posted 139 days ago
Great idea ! I’ve seen ” Zero Clearance ” plates mentioned before. What are the reasons for them? Other than those little pieces falling in by the blade and scarin the crap outta me. :-)
Thanks for the idea.
-- 2 steps forward..2 steps back......Hmmmm....
juniorjock
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280 posts in 216 days
posted 139 days ago
I know what you’re talking about Tyler. My first saw was an Hitachi and I tried several times to make an insert that would work. I think it was on my fourth attempt that it was close, but it was far from perfect.
Verne, as far as I know the main reason to use a zero clearance insert is for safety. There may be more reasons to use one but I’m pretty sure that their main purpose is to keep the small pieces from shooting back at you. I use one for straight cuts when using my Forrest II blade and really need to make a few for the different size dados I use.
-- Make things with wood.
RAH
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278 posts in 328 days
posted 139 days ago
Nice job Tyler, I’m glad you didn’t give up. The more I read of your posts the more impressed I am with your thought process and accomplishments. I hope you have a lot of influence of your school class mates, The older I get the more I want kids like you, to grow up and run the world.
Thanks Ron
-- Ron Central, CA
lazyfiremaninTN
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362 posts in 404 days
posted 139 days ago
I got tired of trying to make one, so I just bought a bigger table saw. Great job and congrats on working your way thru the problem.
-- Adrian ..... The 11th Commandment...."Thou Shalt Not Buy A Wobble Dado"
sIKE
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472 posts in 205 days
posted 139 days ago
There are multiple purposes for a ZCI, the primary one is safety. One of the other major benefits is that with a ZCI properly installed it will support the workpiece at the blades edge preventing tear out. Very useful on ply-goods and lumber that like to fuzz when cut.
-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"
ChicoWoodnut
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596 posts in 266 days
posted 139 days ago
Nice job of engineering there. Now quick make three more, save one for a model and keep the other two for your dado head.
-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net
GaryK
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8411 posts in 439 days
posted 139 days ago
Looks like that will work. Great job.
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
roy
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65 posts in 245 days
posted 139 days ago
where’s mine??
-- tn hillbilly
Bradford
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622 posts in 274 days
posted 139 days ago
Make extras now. One for a 45 degree cut. A couple for stacked dados. And, one for a thin kerf blade.
-- so much wood, so little time. Bradford.
HokieMojo
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257 posts in 179 days
posted 89 days ago
Great project. I’m impressed by your stick-to-it.
One thought on the 45 degree and cut. the wood looks thin (by design). If it flexes while you send material through the saw, this won’t matter when it is at 90 degrees, but at 45, it could catch the blade and cause a problem. I’m not saying it will. I guess it is something I’d want to consider (as someone that hasn’t ever see your insert or any other insert for that matter).