University of Kansas Bookcase

Rock chalk Jayhawk. KU!

Nice work, Martin.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Very nice bookcase even if KU stole Bill Self from the University of Illinois. Just kidding about the coach.

-- Depend on the rabbit's foot if you will, but remember it didn't work for the rabbit.

Nice tight work!

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Martin,

This is a gorgeous bookcase. The inlay and joinery add nice details to the project.

Thanks for the post.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

great case.. nice inlays

-- making sawdust....

Great bookcase. You even used the new KU font, which a lot of people seem to dislike. I like it. I think I need to make something like that to remind me of my many years there. I got a BA and MA there before leaving KS for MD. When I moved back, I worked there for 2 years. Watching them win the tourney this year was awesome. With KU stuff flying off the shelves around here I imagine you could get a local shop to sell something like that if you could make a few more.

-- Joshua, Olathe, Kansas

What method did you use to rout out the space for the KU inlay? Did you make a template?

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Thank you all for the comments! Everyone on this site is so supportive of each other. That’s what really induced me to join this site.

Charlie M: I normally do not use templates, but in this case I did use one simple “template” for the curved horizontal pieces of the Kansas border. In my inlay work I usually do not use typical veneer either…unless you call 3/16 inch stock veneer.

With the lettering I got the font from KU’s website, printed it, then increased the size using a copier. I made some modifications since the original logo lettering is all one piece. For this inlay it was less risky separating the two letters. I traced the patterns onto the maple stock and scrolled them out. Then I smooth all the edges of the lettering inlay pieces with miniature files and/or sanded… to get smooth flowing curves or very straight edges as needed. Once these are done I used double sided tape to fasten the lettering temporarily to the walnut top. I then used a chip carving (or any very sharp) knife to very lightly, carefully, and accurately scribe the perimiter of the lettering into the walnut. I follow with a second heavier cut that can be used to “register” chisels or gouges, then I remove the lettering. I find it helpful then to take a straight chisel at a very shallow angle and remove from the inside of the recess, a shaving right up against the scribed outline. My next step is to freehand route (with a trim router) about 1/8 inch deep inside the lettering boundaries, being careful to stop shy of the boundaries.

At this point it’s all manual, removing the excess right up to the scribed boundaries using a variety of chisels and very small gouges (I use flexcut a lot) using vertical cuts right on the scribed outline or boundary. Once that’s done I may or may not need to do some minor adjustments to either the recess, or the inlay, to make it fit (tightly). I found that CA glue mixed with the sawdust of the darkest wood works well to fill in any small gaps along the seam of the inlay. (I also use the dark Titebond mixed with sawdust too, when I need more gluing time, or on bigger inlays like this one). Once it’s dried, the inlay is usually 1/16 inch or so proud of the surface it’s put into, so I plane/sand the inlay until flush and all excess glue is removed.

Now I bet you’re sorry you asked.

Anyway thanks again for your comments and interest.

-- Martin, Kansas

Excellent work, and a very interesting narrative, every time I read someone’s story I learn a little bit more, thats what makes this website so good. Can I ask? do you put a slight angle on your inlay when you you file and smooth the edges so that the inlay wedges tightly into the recess without leaving gaps?

many thanks

Colin

-- Colin, Aberdeenshire, Scotland. "Every craftsman was once an amateur"

Thanks for the explanation. That has to take a tremendous amount of both skill and patience. (Two things I could use more of.)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Colin, I don’t put an angle on the inlay pieces (at least on purpose), but that’s maybe a good idea…that certainly would have the potential for getting an even tighter fit…less gaps…I may have to try that on my next inlay project. Thanks.

-- Martin, Kansas