|Project by winters98||posted 07-30-2012 07:10 AM||1834 views||2 times favorited||4 comments|
Like most of the time I came across an old wine outdoor bar table at a thrift store. The base was nice so I thought I have fun and make something out of it, so I promptly took the top of it and tossed it in the fire.
I was lucky enough to have a buddy saw a raw 5” Cookie from a giant white Oak he had waiting to be cut into boards.
Attached is the final product of my labors, it is about 36-39’’ round I left the edges un-sanded. This was my first attempt at making a bar pour table it turned out really nice but I had to restrip it 2 times. I know there may be better guided but I will share a quick guide for those interested in making a similar project.
1. Find a base, something that is 2 pieces (stand part and part that can bolt to the slab)
2. Find slab
I got mine from the local saw mill roughly 39” roundish, bark on would be preferred but not necessary, they cut it with chainsaw which made it 4”on one side 5” think on the other( I will specify how to remedy this in the next part). If possibly have this giant cookie cut of the tree flattened on the mill so it is even thickness, if you did this step 5 will be easy.
3. Dry wood slab for long time.
I dried my slab for over a year, using anchor seal on the top side nothing on the other. Caution your piece will crack if dried to quickly, but great part if you do get some minor cracks inside like on top that is ok I sealed mine and they will fill in with the epoxy (Bar) pour. I built a box container to hold my slab in the winter which I filled with saw dust. Put your slab in this put some dry saw dust/wood shavings on top and seal. This will help draw out moisture, also change shavings often.
4. Check your moisture level in your wood, I started out with 31%. When the outside is dry let it dry some more. See #5 for drying tip
5. Flatten your slab
This thing is so darn big how will I ensure a flat surface? Well become friends with someone with a time saver sander. I started sanding on y pieces even when it was wet.
TIP: Sanding wet tends to draw out the moisture, When I sanded in on the 40” sander the friction made my piece hot and in turn I saw the moisture draw out of my piece of lumber. I unfortunately had to make 5 trips to the sander at different times, 2 in the Final stages.
6. preparing for the bar pour.
I found that my piece of white oak had lots of gaps/cracks/etc. I found these need to be filled to the best or your ability, Sander sealer, wood putty or a thin coat of epoxy pour (I did this and sanded it back down).
7. putting on the bar pour
This is messy or at least it was for me, also you want t to be in an enclosed area with minimal dust. So if in your work shop do not work on other projects (opps!). Mix per instructions pours a light coat let dry. If your gaps/holes/ cracks are not filled in you will get air bubbles, use heat gun/blow torch etc to blow out bubbles as they arise. I did not have mine sealed the first time and had to blow bubbles every 20min for 6hours. I burnt my top and had to start back at step 5.
8. Final pour
Once you have that 1/4 thick pour across you project mix a nice batch of epoxy resin then pour (I cut the center out of mine and placed a plastic tub painted black so I could place an umbrella in the center if I so choose to. Spread mixture evenly but it should self level, make allot let it drip. Take some of mixture and brush on the sides and bottom if possible. I used an old set of saw horses I did not care about, the epoxy gets on something it won’t come off and is very messy! Use tarps. Plastic gloves and utensils you don’t mind throwing in the trash after project. Like before take out the bubbles as they appear, I did a check every 20min. after 6 hours it should be pretty thick and ok. Let it sit over night and then you have your top.
Also clean up drops as the epoxy levels out, i sanded the bottom side becuase i had bumps from the drips
9. Mount slab to top part of table fixture
10. Mount top to base
11. You have finished project