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Bull Nose Plane

Project by Tony posted 99 days ago 479 views 4 times favorited 27 comments Add to Favorites
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Tony

526 posts in 431 days


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plane bull nose jatoba beech tool making

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Bull Nose Plane Bull Nose Plane No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I recently needed to clean some dadoes out, but the width did not match any tools I had available.

Obi gave me some tool steel when I visited him in January, so was now the perfect time to try it out.

The plane measures 7” long, 1 3/4” high and 17mm wide (0,669”). The body is made from Beech, whilst the sole is made from Jatoba. Holding the blade in place is a simple brass thumbscrew.

The blade is ground to 22° and the bed is 20° – giving a cutting angle of 42°.

I found the plane worked extremely well for short periods of time, but the blade does not hold an edge too well. I will have to investigate that at some time in the future. All I had to do was re-hone the edge on the Tormek leather wheel, which only takes about 30 seconds, so not a huge downer.

The longest part of the operation was cutting and filing the steel – I guess the whole thing was completed in an afternoon.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)


27 comments so far

View jockmike2's profile

jockmike2

3833 posts in 647 days


posted 99 days ago

Tony, heat the steel up with a torch if you have one, and then quench it in cold water, that ought to harden that steel some and make it hold an edge longer. I’ve even heard of guys putting steel in the oven and putting the oven on high and doing the same thing, I’ve never tried it though. mike

-- Mike. Profisher50@yahoo.com

View matter's profile

matter

174 posts in 170 days


posted 99 days ago

When I make plane irons, knife blanks etc. i usually harden the steel by taking the grates off of the bbq or firepit, toss the steel in and bury it, then leave it until red-hot. (Bluish purple as it cools)

Then I quench it in used motor oil, and start polishing. This will result in a hardness of about RC-54 to 56

-- The only easy wood project is a fire

View oliver's profile

oliver

1 post in 99 days


posted 99 days ago

its good

-- oliver potts

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

1668 posts in 422 days


posted 99 days ago

I like that Tony.
I’m going to make one too.

p.s. tool steel usually dosen’t come tempered.
You have to do that after you work it.

To add to what Mike said, if you heat the polished blade up about an inch from the cutting end and chase the yellowish brown color to the sharp edge then quench it in water or oil ( I use Corn oil) you should have a pretty hard blade.

cheers
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View RAH's profile

RAH

217 posts in 278 days


posted 99 days ago

And my education continues on. Nice plan I like the idea. I never knew that is how you could harden steel. Thanks Tony for posting and everyone for answering. My addiction has been justified I will be back.

-- Ron Central, CA

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

3635 posts in 619 days


posted 99 days ago

Looks very useful!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View stanley2's profile

stanley2

130 posts in 196 days


posted 99 days ago

Tony – it’s always interesting to see how a person chases a problem thru to a solution with a shop-made tool. Follow the advice given about hardening and you will be happy with the result.

Phil

-- Phil in British Columbia

View SteveKorz's profile

SteveKorz

704 posts in 115 days


posted 99 days ago

That is cool as heck… I didn’t know how little I knew until I got on this site…

That’s a great looking plane… does it feel good in your hand when you use it?

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

View waylan's profile

waylan

5 posts in 184 days


posted 99 days ago

There’s a nice writeup by Ron Hock himself here: Some thoughts on Do-It-Yourself Heat Treating of Tool Steel

Of course, to accomplish that you need to get the metal hot enough. Sure you can use the coals in a firepit etc, but a mini forge built with a coffee can and a Mapp gas or propane hand-held torch works nice too. Check these out:
Mini Gas Forge
How to Make a small Gas Furnace
Free Gas Forge Plans

There’s more than you ever needed to know about treating tool steal.

-- Waylan Limberg, Warren PA

View Obi's profile

Obi

2139 posts in 638 days


posted 99 days ago

DON’T PUT IT IN WATER AFTER YOU HEAT IT. COOLS TOO QUICKLY. AFTER YOU HEAT IT, DIP IT IN OIL.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

View jm82435's profile

jm82435

145 posts in 143 days


posted 99 days ago

That is an interesting plane. looks like just the ticket for cleaning dadoes.

If you do plan on heat treating the blade – I thought I would get my $.02 in too:

The general idea in heat treating steel is to get it above its critical temperature then freeze the molecular lattice before the carbon atoms can migrate. As Mike said, If you have a torch (rosebud) that works well if for most steels, take it beyond cherry to orange. or you can test it with a magnet or temperature stick. if the magnet doesn’t stick to it, it is ready. Quenching depends on the type of steel you have. O1 tool steel for example, the motor oil quench is perfect. Other types can be quenched in water, be careful with this. The steel can shatter like glass if cooled too quickly. also the oil can catch fire. (highly unlikely on a piece this small) I usually have a bucket handy that I can just place upside down over the oil container and smother it.) After quenching, the steel is very hard (60+ Rc), but also brittle like glass. This is were Mike’s “sticking it in the oven on high” or as Bob said by bringing the light amber / straw color back from behind the cutting edge tricks come in. These are ways of tempering it (make it tougher and less brittle – (and softer)).

-- A thing of beauty is a joy forever... - Keats

View Hawgnutz's profile

Hawgnutz

480 posts in 477 days


posted 99 days ago

Very nicely done, Tony. I am sure that fits your hand comfotably, too. You got a wealth of info on tempering the steel, so you should be able to get-r-done! It is always much more gratifying to use a tool YOU made, yourslef when working on wood, ain’t it?!?

God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

View Blake's profile

Blake

1833 posts in 275 days


posted 99 days ago

This is cool, Tony. What A simple solution to a problem. I know you will use this a lot. I have a “Record” (metal) bullnose/chisel plane and I use it more than any other hand tool for cleaning out the insides or corners, frames, etc. Its great for getting rid of beads of glue squeeze out inside boxes.

-- Dust collectors suck.

View thetimberkid's profile

thetimberkid

614 posts in 104 days


posted 99 days ago

Great solution always more satisfying when you use a tool you have made yourself

Thanks for the post

Callum

-- There is no such thing as a mistake....just a design modification Check out my site http://thetimberkid.blogspot.com/

View sharad's profile

sharad

248 posts in 205 days


posted 99 days ago

A very useful tool for cleaning dadoes. I was looking for some such means to clean a very narrow dado. I hope I can try one for it. Very nice.
Sharad

-- patanjali

View Bob A in NJ's profile

Bob A in NJ

290 posts in 400 days


posted 99 days ago

A perfect example of KISS. Keep it simple stupid! Great idea!

-- Bob A in NJ

View Tony's profile

Tony

526 posts in 431 days


posted 99 days ago

Wow – thanks guys for the input, especially on the tempering. I’ll give it a try soon, just got to find some oil. I’ll let you know how it works out.

I was just thinking about modifications to the design – I might make another body for the blade, with an even lower bed angle, maybe 12° or 15°, and a shorter version for those tight places to get into.

If this all works out, I can see me making a few more tools – providing I can get the steel (difficult to find here in Finland)

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

View motthunter's profile

motthunter

982 posts in 200 days


posted 99 days ago

looks great and functional

-- making sawdust....

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1704 posts in 397 days


posted 98 days ago

good looking little plane! if you need more tool steel – check out admiral steel and online metals

I’d imagine that some online metals outfit would ship to Finland…

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View Tony's profile

Tony

526 posts in 431 days


posted 97 days ago

Dorje – Thanks for the links – but the shipping costs are 3 x the value of the order $33 for steel and $105 shipping costs. This is why I need to buy locally or find a kind person who gives me the steel.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1704 posts in 397 days


posted 97 days ago

oooh – got it…didn’t realize the shipping would be that steep!

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View Colin's profile

Colin

93 posts in 321 days


posted 96 days ago

Excelllent work, and also very interesting reading the stories about hardening and tempering.

-- Colin, Aberdeenshire, Scotland. "Every craftsman was once an amateur"

View Tony's profile

Tony

526 posts in 431 days


posted 95 days ago

Thanks again to ALL – I heated the blade up in my wood burner, just added a little compressed air to get the temperature higher.

Cooled the blade in some Oily stuff, then re polished, Flattened and sharpened the blade.

The result – a first class blade, which not only removed the hairs from my arm, but will actually slice them length ways.

Time will tell how it holds it edge – but I am more than happy with the results – Thanks for the steel Obi.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

View USCJeff's profile

USCJeff

762 posts in 469 days


posted 42 days ago

I recently read that a blade with an angle less than 20 degrees is almost impossible to get a lasting edge. Your honing comes close to that mark, so maybe the article was valid. Makes since as there is very little there on the tiny angles regardless of blade quality.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

5690 posts in 498 days


posted 42 days ago

Good to see how you put the steel to use. When you coming back to the US? : ^ )

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Tony's profile

Tony

526 posts in 431 days


posted 41 days ago

Jeff - I have not found a problem with 20° grinding – some of my chisels are ground to 20° and are a pleasure to use, but they are reserved normally for softer woods, they seep to cut better than those at 25°.

Wayne No plans at the moment, I am trying to persuade the wife to go back for the winter of 2009/2010 – it is a huge expense to travel and ski – got to get more work to pay for the trip.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

5690 posts in 498 days


posted 41 days ago

Hopefully you will get the work and be able to come again. Lots of other shops to visit.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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